This thread started out about the AIT Sensor, as to where I have it located now and do I need to move it.
But as the thread when on, I was trying to learn more about reading my logs. I'm 57 years old and not up to par on computers, can barely type on this phone.
Give me a screwdriver, carb and distributor and get out of the way, never needed a AFR gauge. Tune by ear and the way the car ran.
Also wanted to know if the timing was staying at 25* the whole run and AFR at 12.96.
That is what I'm seeing. But some are saying that is what my tuner is commanding and not what's actually showing up on my logged runs.
Thanks again.
Did you see where the timing and AFR are set at or commanded in my tune?

 

Short answer is yes, the tune is commanding 25 degrees WOT timing. The IAT would have to get to 140 degrees F before it would pull timing out of the tune. There is no information in the logs that indicate what effect the IAT sensor location is having on WOT fueling if any so no one can say if relocating it would help. Have to take your word that the A/F is 12.96. There is nothing in the logs that show it. The tune is not the best I've seen but not the worst. Especially for a track only car that only sees idle and WOT. I probably would have flashed it with a manual trans file since you have a TH 400.
And I'm 59 years old. Don't use you age as an excuse to not learn and understand this.

 

I was thinking you were kinda old, by some of your smartass answers!
Not letting age be an excuse, trying to learn as much as I can. Just need someone to show me more "hands on" than learning by the book, so to speak.
Anyways, there's a display that shows the AFR during the run, I'll find it when I get home and post it.

 

Don't mistake being blunt for being a smart ***. The norm here is people posting asking for help and not giving any details or information needed to provide that help. And I get blunt when that occurs. How long did this go on before you even posted a tune file to look at?

 

Concerning the IAT, I noticed that its temp dropped from 106 to 88 during the run, indicating that it is not in an ideal position. The A/F would have therefore changed by 2% during the run, not terrible, but not ideal.
Also what was the outside temp?
I'm also 59 years old, but have been an electronics and computer nerd all my life. My only carb car was my '70 Chevelle SS454 and for that I designed and built my own electronic ignition system.
I'm curious what this is from your post above: "display that shows the AFR during the run"

 

I'm a bigger smartass than you, I guarantee it.
How long as what's been going on before I posted the tune file?
I'm lost.

 

That is ideal if that is the true temp of the air being ingested. Who can say if it is or isn't?

 

Well good luck getting it all figured out then.

 

Well thank you.

 

Always liked the '70 Chevelle over all the other years.

 

When I play back my run logs, I can see the AFR in the Table (Primary) display. It said
Air Fuel Ratio Commanded.
I see the IAT in the Gauges display.
That is what I'm going by.

 

Air Fuel Ratio Commanded is just that, thats what the pcm is commanding. Your PE table is set to 1.130 (12.9 AFR) so thats what the pcm is commanding while in PE (WOT). Thats just what's being commanded though, if the VE table is not correct your actual a/f could be anything.

If you have not set up your WB correctly adjusting for ground offsets then whatever a/f your logging is not going to be correct in your log either. Your going to have to verify your wb is logging correctly in hpt before you can look at a log and determine if your ve table is correct.

 

Rene, I know you are just learn things, but you really need to stop thinking that the "Commanded A/F" is what you are actually getting. If it were that easy we won't need tuners.
If I command my daughter to not drink, not text and drive and not date guys with tattoos, that sure as heck doesn't mean that will happen.

This forum has a detailed thread on how to hook up your wideband through the EGR port:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...thout-eio.html

Google "hp tuners wideband through egr" to find more threads on the subject.

As mentioned, it is important to ensure that HPT is reading the same values as the WB gauge. Even though I wired my AEM gauge directly to the HPT device and selected "AEM WB" in the HPT scanner, the values were a bit off and I had to change the offset and multiplier until the HPT display and the Gauge read the same at all A/F values.

 

I really appreciate all the help, guys. You too, 2xLS1, LOL.
Good tuners are few and far between. You guys seem to be on top of your game.
I'm going to take the time and figure this HPT stuff out.
I've been fighting trans problem last season, trying to figure out one problem at a time.
I started this thread about the IAT sensors location, I just ordered a hood that goes all the way to the windshield and I need to move the sensor. I'm going to move it to the front of the car somewhere. Not real sure yet.
Thanks again!

 

My IATs climb in the TSP 100mm LS3 MAF on my car. I see at idle 110 with ambient near 70. However, once I get to moving, it drops down into the 80s, which is probably the true temp of the air going into the manifold. And that's with a giant aluminum heatsink holding the LS3 cartridge MAF/IAT combo. I wouldn't worry too much about temps unless you're sitting at 40-50 over ambient when in motion.

As far as your logging - HPT has some really good resources for wiring in the wideband. You need to get it set and the offset correctly configured for your wideband. Then you can make a comparison between "commanded" and the actual a/f. The nice thing is, if you just use the standard scanner cfg file, you will have a histogram that shows the difference in the VE table between commanded and actual. You would then just copy and paste special percent difference to your VE table in the editor for those cells that show a difference. This is as close to "auto tuning" as you can get.

Then you'd do another log and see how far off you are. Two or three logs like that will have you set with adjustments to the tune between each. Do long drives to gather lots of data and run through the rev range in each gear. Put your load accessories on, etc. Drive it like you would every day and log it.

 

Good luck with that. Because "the" offset, that's going to
vary with things like WBO2 sensor heater current demand,
which in turn depends on the ambient temps, road draft,
load-point and so on (all affecting the cooling of the
sensor, which the wideband compensates, throwing the
returned current into the same ground that your signal
refers to). And then you've got your extraneous sheet
metal ground loads from whatever else happens to be
actively dumping current.

I know people believe in it (the approach of making your
own custom PID that tries to take out an offset value)
but that approach is bogus to some, unknown at any time
besides when you did your calibration, extent.

The only way that will take it out cleanly involves some
electronics cobbling. Not expensive, but not everybody's
favorite hobby either.

 

I agree. That's why I use the old NGK wideband... dedicated circuit wired directly to the battery and plugged directly into the MPIV module with HPT Pro. When a shift of a few mV can alter the A/F, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to use anything other than the cleanest wiring connection.

 

Serial wideband and efi live, no ground offsets!