J-Krupa

I have an LS1 out of an 02 Corvette in my mazda. It is running HPTuners software on an ecu from a WS6. It is not the handheld tuner software, it was dyno tuned with the software.

The car is recently running like hell. When I go to start it, it will hesitate and idle very rough at 430-480RPM for about 10 seconds and run super rich and slowly idle itself out and come to a smooth controlled idle at around 850. The motor sounds extremely healthy, no ticks or taps or anything. Thats my first problem.

My second problem is the coolant system. Ive read so many articles on how to bleed the air out and its still not coming out. Drove the car on an incline, popped the top coolant hose off of the head nipple, squeezed the radiator hoses, everything. It still has air in the system enough to where the thermostat wont even open because there is no coolant getting to it.

1. - What ither viable options do i have as far as bleeding the air out of the system?

2. - The car will NOT start whatsoever if it is even warm, it will just crank over, and basically dump fuel all over the plugs. I have just changed the plugs (NGK TR55) and wires 10 minutes ago, fired it up (while it was cold and sat overnight) and it still runs like dog **** on start-up. Could the crank pos. sensor literally just go bad out of nowhere? Or am I dealing with a tuning issue and the computer is just being weird? or are these problems sensor related? Coolant temp sensor matches perfectly with a heatgun. I cleaned the MAF a few weeks ago. I did unplug the battery a few times to install a radio, would that have really wiped the whole ECU of the tune?

joecar

If no air/coolant comes out of the steam crossover tube, then the steam ports may be blocked off, typically the rear ports might come blocked off with blind rivets (makes bleeding air difficult).

joecar

When it cranks with no start, is your scanner showing engine rpm...?

Are the plugs firing...?

Are the injectors also firing, or are they leaking...?

joecar

Pulling the battery does not wipe the tune... it resets the trims.

J-Krupa

I popped the top rad hose off and dumped coolant directly into the T-stat and waterpump housing, the coolant issue has been resolved and the thermostat is opening fully and the car wont go a tick over 175

I do not have a scanner to show anything, this ECU was dyno tuned with HPTuners software and i was told that you cant use the HPTuners scanner in conjunction with an ECU that was dynotuned with the HPTuners software...?

Plugs are firing, when i start the car with the throttle depressed %100, it fires up much more easily due to the ECU going into "clear flood mode", the injectors are doing their job, no leaks.

Going to try to start it again today after another MAF cleanse.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry, this statement makes no sense at all. Hopefully you mis-typed something or I'm misunderstanding what you mean. If what you typed is what you mean, this is complete um... (searching for an internet-safe word) baloney.

What you need to do is get access to a scanner - ANY scanner and at a minimum check for codes. I would check for loose wires on the engine and possibly loose connectors and grounds. Check your fuel pressure and see if you have 58 PSI at the rail. If no codes show up, and the fuel pressure is a solid 58 PSI and holds without intervention, you will need a scanner that can view and log live data. I prefer HP Tuners for it's flexibility but there are others with similar functions including some handhelds.

Trying to troubleshoot an EFI engine without even the most basic scan tool is an exercise in futility. Trying to troubleshoot the same engine over the internet without proper tools is absolute madness.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Good job on getting the coolant filled. You discovered the trick.
Curious how it got dyno tuned before you got it filled correctly.....

Sounds like it was running well then changed?

ron

J-Krupa

Yes, I was told by the PO that I can't use the HPTuners VCM scanner on the ECU because it was dyno-tuned using HPTuners software. This is just what he told me. This is my first LS engine, I dont know anything about how these ECU's work.

I have solved the issue...

During the engine running and me squeezing the bottom rad hose, I had the cap off of the radiator and some coolant got into the intake filter. This atomized over the MAF and basically ruined A/F ratios. All I did was clean the MAF, unplug the battery, plugged in the battery, and it fired right up without an hesistation whatsoever.

The car had coolant in it when it was tuned, but the heater core doesnt work and since I am road racing this I deleted the heater core hoses and replaced it with an open loop rubber tube connecting both ports on the water pump. I had to drain the coolant to do that so thats why there was such a large air bubble in the system.

Thank you all for the help. I didnt know the MAF was so sensitive.