C6 LS2 Knock Question
C6 LS2 Knock Question I purchased an '05 C6 from Illinois that has a Torquer V2 cam, full bolt-ons and a dyno tune on Illinois gas which I believe is 93 octane.
After driving it back to Oregon where we have 92 and what many describe as "crappy" gas I've noticed what sounds like knocking under harder acceleration. The elevation difference is minimal(~100ft) and the car feels strong.
Could the tune and the difference in gas create a knock condition by itself?
After driving it back to Oregon where we have 92 and what many describe as "crappy" gas I've noticed what sounds like knocking under harder acceleration. The elevation difference is minimal(~100ft) and the car feels strong.
Could the tune and the difference in gas create a knock condition by itself?
I purchased an '05 C6 from Illinois that has a Torquer V2 cam, full bolt-ons and a dyno tune on Illinois gas which I believe is 93 octane.
After driving it back to Oregon where we have 92 and what many describe as "crappy" gas I've noticed what sounds like knocking under harder acceleration. The elevation difference is minimal(~100ft) and the car feels strong.
Could the tune and the difference in gas create a knock condition by itself?
After driving it back to Oregon where we have 92 and what many describe as "crappy" gas I've noticed what sounds like knocking under harder acceleration. The elevation difference is minimal(~100ft) and the car feels strong.
Could the tune and the difference in gas create a knock condition by itself?
So the quality of the tune is called into question here? When it was tuned it made good power (430whp~ on a Mustang dyno)
Now this is a question I was hoping to not have to ask but since it's coming to this... is there any way to interface with the pcm without a laptop to upload a tune?
Now this is a question I was hoping to not have to ask but since it's coming to this... is there any way to interface with the pcm without a laptop to upload a tune?
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: South Lyon, Michigan
For an N/A car I wouldn't be too concerned, but for a turbo, blower or nitrous car I'd definitely be scanning it while driving and seeing how much/if any knock is being picked up.
If you want some piece of mind, see if anyone local to you can scan it while you're out driving.
If you want some piece of mind, see if anyone local to you can scan it while you're out driving.
So the quality of the tune is called into question here? When it was tuned it made good power (430whp~ on a Mustang dyno)
Now this is a question I was hoping to not have to ask but since it's coming to this... is there any way to interface with the pcm without a laptop to upload a tune?
Now this is a question I was hoping to not have to ask but since it's coming to this... is there any way to interface with the pcm without a laptop to upload a tune?
With my C6 LS2 while tuning on the dyno the knock became very frustrating. I had read on the HP Tuning forum how a simple change to TR6 plugs would correct the issue.
Plugs are cheap so I thought what the hell lets give it a go. It was that simple
Plugs are cheap so I thought what the hell lets give it a go. It was that simple
That's a good post. Lots of people forget to go to a lower heat range plug when they do cam swap. TR6 plug might be just the trick!
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Let us know how it goes with the tr6 plugs. In all fairness to the tuner, it could have been tuned with absolutely no knock as the dyno usually has large fans and is usually much cooler than a hot open road. Once you sit in traffic for a bit and/or experience hotter conditions, certainly then would you see knock when giving a fair bit of throttle.
To absolutely never see knock, the tuner would have to give you a very conservative tune or make sure you run non pump gas.
To absolutely never see knock, the tuner would have to give you a very conservative tune or make sure you run non pump gas.
If your NGK plugs caused a voltage drop issue, you have a poor understanding of the word "cause". There would absolutely have to be an underlying electrical issue for any sparkplug change to coincide with a charging system problem.
Guessing their confused as well? For your education purposes only!
Of course they aren't confused. They are trying to BS gullible customers into believing a legitimate warranty issue is caused by some fictional sparkplug with "pulse technology". This type of claim denial and blame shifting nonsense is way too common.
The service charging system began immediately after the startup drive. Figured it would go away after all was dialed in. Never could understand the voltage drop or determine where the issue was coming from. Found some threads where many had the same issue, problem solution was swapping to AC Iridiums.
Put my stock AC's back in, problem never presented itself again.
Second occurrence was with my 21k 06 C/I, noticed on the drive home in August 2015 the "Service Charging System" display came up. I thought wonder if the plugs are NGK? Made it home pulled #1 and NGK it was. Swapped the next day to AC and have never seen the message or voltage fluctuation again.
Coincidence?
Confirmed that the car is running NGK TR6 plugs.
This must be proof that the west coast is running the equivalent of water for gas as compared to the east. Ontop of that, what was described in this thread is likely how the car was tuned... advance the timing 'till she knocks, dial it back a bit and done. I added an octane booster and the knocking stopped.
Seems like the only solution is to get her to a tuner and knock the problem out once and for all or keep running octane booster forever lol.
This must be proof that the west coast is running the equivalent of water for gas as compared to the east. Ontop of that, what was described in this thread is likely how the car was tuned... advance the timing 'till she knocks, dial it back a bit and done. I added an octane booster and the knocking stopped.
Seems like the only solution is to get her to a tuner and knock the problem out once and for all or keep running octane booster forever lol.
Confirmed that the car is running NGK TR6 plugs.
This must be proof that the west coast is running the equivalent of water for gas as compared to the east. Ontop of that, what was described in this thread is likely how the car was tuned... advance the timing 'till she knocks, dial it back a bit and done. I added an octane booster and the knocking stopped.
Seems like the only solution is to get her to a tuner and knock the problem out once and for all or keep running octane booster forever lol.
This must be proof that the west coast is running the equivalent of water for gas as compared to the east. Ontop of that, what was described in this thread is likely how the car was tuned... advance the timing 'till she knocks, dial it back a bit and done. I added an octane booster and the knocking stopped.
Seems like the only solution is to get her to a tuner and knock the problem out once and for all or keep running octane booster forever lol.