Is my tuner dumb
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2014
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Is my tuner dumb Just bought HPT because my tuner is iffy and tired of wasting money on him. I did a lsx swap on a lq9 engine in my 2000 silverado rcsb, ported ls3 heads, ls3 intake, 225/230 617'/.612' 112LSA cam. I gained about 70HP from this and lost about 2lbs of torque. Very frustrated because of how much i spent. Could I have someone look over my tune as I am just now starting to learn it. Want another opinion on my tuners works.
Hard to say. How does the car drive? How does it feel?
TQ numbers on a dyno are not that hard to screw around with.
Need to make sure we have an apples to apples comparison.
TQ numbers on a dyno are not that hard to screw around with.
Need to make sure we have an apples to apples comparison.
Definitely make a data log, with afr, commanded afr, timing, and iat, MAF and injector duty. Get it up to temp, and if you can make a pass, at least try to get a wot through 2nd gear and then we can get a better idea of what is what. If you have a wideband, make sure that is logged, and when you post up a log, also include the config layout as well.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I'm sure no expert, but a couple of unusual things stand out.
1. The advance is a piddly 7* at 3600 and then 28* at 4000. Unless your engine works in the 4th dimension where it magically removes the locomotive cam and installs a racing cam above 3600 RPM, that is simply wrong. Transitions should always be smooth. The tuner was likely just very lazy. Actually 28* is aggressively high for these engines.
2. The VE table shows the highest values, which corresponds to the highest torque in the 4400 RPM column, exactly the same as a stock cam. With your hot cam it should be more in the 5200 or even 5600 column. Again, the tuner was lazy.
3. The PE table has a very lean 1.13 starting at 4000 RPM. Many people here have found that 1.16 to 1.18 is best up to max torque and then perhaps leaning out a bit.
Now it is possible that he enriched everything somewhere else, but IMHO that would be non-standard. In any case you don't lean out until after max torque which with your cam is around 5600 RPM.
With the 28* advance and the lean PE table and lean VE tables near your max torque, I suspect you are getting a bunch of Knock retard. You might not hear it, but a log will show it.
In short, IMHO the combination of these issues is costing you a lot of torque; maybe 40 ft/lbs.
Again, I'm no expert, and if an expert refutes everything I wrote, I will go and have myself spanked.
1. The advance is a piddly 7* at 3600 and then 28* at 4000. Unless your engine works in the 4th dimension where it magically removes the locomotive cam and installs a racing cam above 3600 RPM, that is simply wrong. Transitions should always be smooth. The tuner was likely just very lazy. Actually 28* is aggressively high for these engines.
2. The VE table shows the highest values, which corresponds to the highest torque in the 4400 RPM column, exactly the same as a stock cam. With your hot cam it should be more in the 5200 or even 5600 column. Again, the tuner was lazy.
3. The PE table has a very lean 1.13 starting at 4000 RPM. Many people here have found that 1.16 to 1.18 is best up to max torque and then perhaps leaning out a bit.
Now it is possible that he enriched everything somewhere else, but IMHO that would be non-standard. In any case you don't lean out until after max torque which with your cam is around 5600 RPM.
With the 28* advance and the lean PE table and lean VE tables near your max torque, I suspect you are getting a bunch of Knock retard. You might not hear it, but a log will show it.
In short, IMHO the combination of these issues is costing you a lot of torque; maybe 40 ft/lbs.
Again, I'm no expert, and if an expert refutes everything I wrote, I will go and have myself spanked.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2014
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My tune needs work is exactly what i want to hear lol. Means I am missing some power somewhere. I don't have a wide band yet, I am still looking at them. I will forsure get one and get some data logging done for y'all to look at. I much appreciate all your responses to help out! Makes me feel better about spending money to get the software
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2014
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it is drivable, sometimes it's sputters like it wants to die. When I lay into it it climbs well but the shifting is horrible, first to second on a wot is super slow like it has trouble. Then when driving 40 to 60 and I want to lay into it, it has trouble downshifting to get going.
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Teching In
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before and after ok i have spent a month or two going through my tune correcting VE, maf, and spark. Still working on spark though. Wanted to readdress the new tune vs teh old one and get your opinions again to see if i still am missing other values. It does run better than it did before that is for sure. It is all street tuning, so i do not know if i made any gains. I can post log if i need too. the tune called george is my before and "spark" is the after tune.
I'm sure no expert, but a couple of unusual things stand out.
1. The advance is a piddly 7* at 3600 and then 28* at 4000. Unless your engine works in the 4th dimension where it magically removes the locomotive cam and installs a racing cam above 3600 RPM, that is simply wrong. Transitions should always be smooth. The tuner was likely just very lazy. Actually 28* is aggressively high for these engines.
2. The VE table shows the highest values, which corresponds to the highest torque in the 4400 RPM column, exactly the same as a stock cam. With your hot cam it should be more in the 5200 or even 5600 column. Again, the tuner was lazy.
3. The PE table has a very lean 1.13 starting at 4000 RPM. Many people here have found that 1.16 to 1.18 is best up to max torque and then perhaps leaning out a bit.
Now it is possible that he enriched everything somewhere else, but IMHO that would be non-standard. In any case you don't lean out until after max torque which with your cam is around 5600 RPM.
With the 28* advance and the lean PE table and lean VE tables near your max torque, I suspect you are getting a bunch of Knock retard. You might not hear it, but a log will show it.
In short, IMHO the combination of these issues is costing you a lot of torque; maybe 40 ft/lbs.
Again, I'm no expert, and if an expert refutes everything I wrote, I will go and have myself spanked.
1. The advance is a piddly 7* at 3600 and then 28* at 4000. Unless your engine works in the 4th dimension where it magically removes the locomotive cam and installs a racing cam above 3600 RPM, that is simply wrong. Transitions should always be smooth. The tuner was likely just very lazy. Actually 28* is aggressively high for these engines.
2. The VE table shows the highest values, which corresponds to the highest torque in the 4400 RPM column, exactly the same as a stock cam. With your hot cam it should be more in the 5200 or even 5600 column. Again, the tuner was lazy.
3. The PE table has a very lean 1.13 starting at 4000 RPM. Many people here have found that 1.16 to 1.18 is best up to max torque and then perhaps leaning out a bit.
Now it is possible that he enriched everything somewhere else, but IMHO that would be non-standard. In any case you don't lean out until after max torque which with your cam is around 5600 RPM.
With the 28* advance and the lean PE table and lean VE tables near your max torque, I suspect you are getting a bunch of Knock retard. You might not hear it, but a log will show it.
In short, IMHO the combination of these issues is costing you a lot of torque; maybe 40 ft/lbs.
Again, I'm no expert, and if an expert refutes everything I wrote, I will go and have myself spanked.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
I believe i have corrected all that was listed, could be wrong. Spark may be a little high as he said 28 degrees is a little over kill. I never logged any knock though. So I increase a degree at a time till i get knock then i back off. This may not be a feasible way to tune spark.
