Insufficient switching, sensor 1 bank 2.What does this mean?
Thanks

 

Bad O2 sensor on the pass. side / front. Common with LT headers.

 

Will this always come back to haunt me when I replace the sensor?
Thanks

 

Unless you can keep the sensor hotter, and keep
the tune tight, you will keep on fouling O2 sensors
most likely.

It's too bad the header makers don't get wise and
bring out models with something like a close-in
sampling bridge tube that mounts the O2s up near
the head, where it's hot.

 

and how do we do that jimmy?

 

here
Its not heating I don't think
This is from the Holden site.
Response time, Page 50
"Not only is it necessary for the oxygen sensors to produce voltage signals for rich and lean exhaust, it is also impsortant to respond quickly to changes. If the oxygen sensors respond slowly,the customer may complain of poor fuel economy,rough idle,surging or lack of performance. The PCM will set a DTC that indicates degraded HO2S performance if a HO2S response switching,transition time, or ratio problem is detected
DTC P 1133 Insufficient switching bank 1 sensor 1
DTC P 1134 Transition Time ratio bank 1 sensor 1
DTC P 1153 Insufficient switching bank 2 sensor 1
DTC P 1154 Transition Time ratio bank 2 sensor 1

Well thats it.

 

So what are you saying? I get 1153/1133 all the time and I have new 0/2's

 

Maybe one of two things.Not enough heat generated in the pipes and/or the engine is running to rich. and needs to be leaned out ala tuning.
Hell I don't know.LOL
My light will pop on once ( twice since the LT were put on roughly month ago)and a while but I just delete the ses code and be off.

 

Delete the code it won't go away,I have a whole pile of o2 sensors to prove it.

 

I hear that LOL

 

I am haveing the same problem, after i installed my long tubs, and never had this problem until i got long tubs. My car will load up real bad STFT and LTFTs will go to -25 on passenger side first then it will go to driver side next this is at idle, and when I try to pull out it will try to stall I push the clutch pedal in and rev it up a few times and it will clear up a bit. But now I beleave my o2s are going bad my because my 02s are reading -14 at cruse about three days ago thay were at -0 to -2 with the long tubs I have found about every problem I have ever had but this one has blowed my mind!!! also I have MAFT and it don't help abit ,strange. With all the long tubs out there wy have'nt we herd more about this problem It's killing my peformance bad .

 

I think its a case of getting your car tuned.Im going to set up a few dyno runs and wideband ,see were my O2's really are.Jimmyblue suggested that I do run with my Predator set to full lean -5% and wait and do a run at 0 setting and see were they read.From that I'll be good to see how much and were I can set my Predator.

 

I had my car tuned and this happened also. I really wish I could figure out what the damn problem is.

 

my car throws that code every couple of hundred miles. ive always believed it to be what jimmyblue mentioned, o2's not heating properly with LT headers

 

Me to, I've got a custom tune to, and this did not start happening till the long tubs.The car was perfect untill long tubs .I had shortys before .On the shortys the 02s was alot closer and the primarys.The primarys is a lot shorter so the exhaust would be alot hotter. With the long tubs the 02's are about 2 foot farther away and the air under the car helps cool the long tubs down .The shortys are up in the engine bay where no air can get to them. Do you think if a man raped then and moved the 02's as close as you can to the primarys. My Flow Techs 02 buns are about 4" down the colecter. What do you all think?

 

Definately that is also the problem having the O2's down stream.One thing we should try is to use header wrap.Wrap only 1/2 way down towards the collector and the O2 location.
This will keep the headers warmer and maybe clear the code for good.