Ive got a 5.3/4l603 in a first gen s10, lt1swap.com basic tuning. Runs great, drives pretty well. has a couple goofy trans quirks that get worse when the trans is warm. Originally when I had brendan do the tune I told him i was running a 3.73 and a 26" tall tire, Currently the truck has 4:10's an a 26" tall tire. Would the discrepency in gear ratio cause goofy shifts/converter lock up/cycling or did I hurt the trans already? I've also noticed that with the trans showing over 150 degrees at the pan it takes off weird from a stop light, almost as if its being nuetral dropped. Not super violent, but enough to make it noticable. Ive watched the trans stuff in HP tuners and nothing sticks out as odd to me.

 

Yes it will cause goofy shifts. It uses RPM and MPH for shift points and TCC control. That's why when you use the gear calc wizard it asks you if you want it to adjust for the changes. That's how HPT is anyway.

 

The "neutral drop" issue you are feeling on acceleration from a stop could be one of several different things. First, I doubt this is going to be an issue in the tune. Try this the next time you are out driving it and it's doing the neutral drop thing... As you are stopped, sitting perfectly still, pull the gear shift lever all the way down to the D1 position. Now accelerate normally from the stop. Does the problem go away when you do it this way? If so, your sprag is most likely damaged. OR, it could mean that under a normal stop with the shifter in the D4 position that the trans is not downshifting all the way into 1st gear. So as you come to a stop the vehicle is in 2nd gear. Then, when you hit the gas to accelerate it then kicks all the way down into 1st giving you a little "bump" as it downshifts into 1st. We see BOTH of these conditions quite frequently with that transmission. I would NOT blame the tune at all. If you want to rule out the tune, or the computer, hook a scanner to the vehicle and drive it while watching the data screen to see if the computer is commanding 1st gear when coming to a stop. If the computer is commanding 1st, but the vehicle is not going all the way back to 1st when stopping, you have PROVEN the computer, and the tune, are GOOD, and that your problem is inside the trans.

 

If you truly think the information in the tune is affecting the trans, if you have HP Tuners you can go in and change the data that the computer uses to calculate vehicle speed.

Try this; Under HP Tuners>Speedo>Calibration>Gear Ratio & Tire Size-the number in this box needs to be calculated as it is what the TCM uses for the shift tables.

You can use then use the Blue Cat Trans tuning software/tables to get the correct # to input into that box, and also the correct VSS pulses/mile. Please note that it is imperative that you measure your actual tire height and then input that measurement (as close as you can possibly get) into the Blue Cat program, along with your gear ratio. You put the tire size, and gear ratio in on the first screen on the top right, of the Blue Cat software then on the top left corner you click "EXPORT", then on the next window that pops up click on "EXPORT WINDOW". The screen that then comes up will show you the correct "Trans Rev/Mile and it will also have the CORRECT # of VSS pulses/mile. You take BOTH of those numbers and move them over to your HP Tuners file and put them into the correct boxes. Save the file. Write the file to your vehicle. Drive it. You can verify that the data is accurate by downloading a GPS MPH app on your phone and going out and driving the vehicle and checking speed on your dash, to speed on your phone. After putting correct data into your tune, you will see that it will shift very close to the #'s on your shift tables, if not spot on. If they are still off a little bit, don't get too excited as that is pretty normal to be off 1-3 MPH per shift point. You won't get it to shift perfectly at your desired speed, but you can get it within 3 MPH in either direction.

Measuring tire height; I like to take a flat ruler, or carpenters square and lay it on the top of the tire with one edge sticking out from the tire. Then using your tap measure, measure from the ground up to the underside of your square/ruler. Try to get the highest recorded measurement by keeping your measuring tape centered from left to right, and in a straight up, or as vertical, position as you can achieve. Take 3 measurements. Use the largest/longest of the 3. This is the # you will need to put into Blue Cat Tuner program under tire size.

 

I am going to agree with ^. The sprag is probably going bad. Been there.

 

Yea, I've come to the realization my 60 is just on its way out. Ive already got rebuilt 80 on the engine stand. Just waiting on the PTC to build/ship my converter. Now hopefully Im smart enough to handle the swap programming wise. As usual, thank you for all your help guys.

 

If you need assistance when it comes time to swap in the 80E, please feel free to contact me. My shop specializes in doing those conversions. You are making the right choice.

 

The 4l80e is a monstrous 250lbs. Everywhere I go Im tellin everybody about how heavy that thing is. Man, the other day in line at publix I turn to the lady behind me and I'm like "you know the transmission in the Tahoe, Corvette, Camaro, Escalade, Silverado, (I named all the trucks) ?! Well mine is even BIGGER and HEAVIER than that one! " I don't say it exactly like that but the point is the trans is so heavy I carry it with me everywhere I go now lol.

 

Put down the pipe Talon.....

 

the 4l80 we received at our shop the other day weighed 188 pounds according to Fedex's shipping scales.

 

Ignore Talon, he's off his meds again, and trying new ones....

 

Now add the converter and like 15555 gallons of fluid, thats how it goes in and out of the car It doesn't go into the car like you received it on the pallet... not what I meant try again

 

A converter FULL of fluid plus whatever is in the pan should not weigh 62#.

 

idk man 15555 gallons off fluid is pretty heavy. might want to check ur math mate XD

honestly tho those torque converters ARE heavy. the stock is one anyways. And fluid is like 8-10lbs/gallon and there is easily ~2 gallons in that sucker. To me that sounds like 40-50 additional pounds. so what if I am off by 10lbs? So I said its 250 and its really 240? You going to give me **** on the internet about 8.4237lbs now lol

 

Kingtalon, let me throw some facts at you...

The torque converters that Circle D sells for the 4L80E (known as the 278MM) are built using 4L60E converter cores. To be extremely specific-they are built using the B-85 VJCX torque converter body-which is spec'ed for a Trailblazer with the in-line 6 cylinder engine. That converter, in fact, is SMALLER than a standard B-85 TMBX which is found behind the V8 equipped trucks with the 5.3L engine/4L60E. It also holds slightly less fluid than the B-85 TMBX.

So, you should be very careful assuming that "those torque converters ARE heavy" because they are in fact, in some applications, LIGHTER than what was behind a factory 5.3/60E combo.

I'm running that exact torque converter behind my 1500 Silverado, single cab, with a 4L80E.

With that out of the way.. even if a 4L80E weighed 400 lbs (which it does not) I'd still run one LONG BEFORE I'd put a steaming pile of fly-covered SH.. 4L60E into anything I own. If your only complaint is that they are "heavy" you need to look at the other side of the coin-you will NEVER break an input sprag on an 80E. You won't burn the 2nd & 4th band, you won't destroy the low planetary set, you won't snap the turbine shaft in half, you won't break the flimsy aluminum input drum where the turbine shaft is splined into it, you won't twist the tube section of the input planet reaction shaft off, you wont' strip the sunshell, you won't burn the 3/4 clutch pack, and many other maladies that 60E owners suffer on a frequent basis. So, yes, I'll take the weight penalty so that I can have the piece of mind that I can drive across the country beating the snot out of my transmission and that I WILL make it back home when I am done. Would I try that with a 60E? I'd smoke crack first.... Maybe I read your post wrong but if you are insinuating that an 80E's weight is a hindrance.. Well, I politely disagree.

 

I own a 9.5" lockup 4l80e Yank converter so I am familiar with the reduced weight. That is why I specific Stock Torque Converter Only but you just decided to ignore that part and read what you want.

The rest of ur words seems like nonsense about internals, people are going to think I rubbed off on you. Where the hell does it say I recommended a 4l60e. Nowhere, nohow, will it ever say that. U just assuming stuff at random now?

Finally the point. I made comment about 4l80e being heavy because I own a couple and I make jokes about how heavy they are. Thats it, its just a joke, why do you think I involved a random lady at publix. You can relax.

On a serious note about weight, yeah 250lbs is quite a bit considering the trans that came out of the car was only 80lbs. It changes the entire dynamic of the vehicle when you start moving weight/changing weight and driveline angles around, so it is a major concern in reality for anybody interested in doing this.

 

"The rest of ur words seems like nonsense about internals"

Can you please elaborate on the statement above? I'd really like to understand what it is EXACTLY you are saying here. I apparently misinterpret things you post so please spell out exactly what you are inferring, or stating, with those words.

"U just assuming stuff at random now?"

A little included irony there? Was it intentional? You accuse me of "assuming" and yet what exactly did you do when you posted this;

"honestly tho those torque converters ARE heavy. the stock is one anyways. And fluid is like 8-10lbs/gallon and there is easily ~2 gallons in that sucker. To me that sounds like 40-50 additional pounds. so what if I am off by 10lbs? So I said its 250 and its really 240? You going to give me **** on the internet about 8.4237lbs now lol

Were you not "assuming" that people were running stock torque converters? You are not running a stock torque converter, I'm not running a stock torque converter.... Why even post about STOCK torque converters if no body in the conversation is using them? Maybe you were assuming!?!?! If your only point was to say that stock torque converters are heavy-well HELLO! Captain Obvious! Welcome to the party! You are only 15 years late! If your PSA was to announce that STOCK 80E torque converters are heavy, then you have done your job. The entire LS1 community thanks you for that.

On a serious note about weight, yeah 250lbs is quite a bit considering the trans that came out of the car was only 80lbs. It changes the entire dynamic of the vehicle when you start moving weight/changing weight and driveline angles around, so it is a major concern in reality for anybody interested in doing this.

Your words-"changing driveline angles around". You seem to post in such ambiguous generalities. Kind of reminds me of a bull-******* at a local bar. Won't say anything specific you can ever nail him down on, just kind of speaks in generalities that he can twist to mean different things if called to the matt about it, or mean different things in different contexts.

So, when swapping a non-standard equipped transmission into a different vehicle you don't know how to maintain correct driveline angles? That's what I'm taking from YOUR WORDS. Maybe I'm misinterpreting what you typed again. I don't have problems maintaining proper driveline angles when doing engine swaps, or transmission swaps, or when fitting non-factory differentials and/or axles into other cars. It's not rocket science I can assure you.

I have swapped TONS of 80E's into so many different types of vehicles. You want to know a FACTUAL comment I've never heard from any of our customers after the swap? I've never ONCE heard anyone say "it changed the entire dynamic of the car". Maybe my customers are all just odd-***** that can't tell the difference in ride handling, or quality, from before the transmission swap, to how it handled after the transmission swap. Let's see we've done Corvettes, Camaros, late model GTO's, Early model GTO's, Caprice Classics, Monza, S-10's, Novas, Impalas, Mustangs, Trucks-Doge, Ford, Chevy, Land Cruisers, Land Rovers, several old jaguars, Jeeps, International Harvester, and too many more that I can't think of right now.. It's funny that NONE of them have ever said ANYTHING about the entire dynamic of the vehicle having changed.

I'll go out on a limb now and say I completely misinterpreted EVERYTHING you posted. My bad. I apparently have an issue with reading comprehension. Or maybe it's just your posts.

My apologies in advance for misconstruing your imbiguous, vague, and obscure words.

I counter Gatsma's statement to put down the pipe.. I say pick it back up. You may yet reach a point where I can understand the thoughts in your head.

 

eh, because it was a joke. Did you see the 150000 gallons of fluid I poured into my imaginary trans? Just try and relax have some fun , make some jokes about the times you underestimated car world stuff. Like the time I thought I could clean the 4l80e onto the bench top. Turns out I needed an engine hoist to get it up there This is non professional forum, everyone is not a PhD.


as to my car, it used to weigh 2800lbs now its probably 3200+ lbs and has a whole different front/rear and center of gravity but besides all of that I can tell a huge difference after owning 15+ of these cars of this exact year, that this particular one has changed dramatically. So YES I would say it changed the entire dynamic of the vehicle.

 

This might be a non-professional forum, but there are PLENTY professional techs participating who DO know what they're talking about, so don't be too quick to do any labeling around here.
Also, your jokes don't fly around here because they can't be discerned from your serious tech babble.