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Start up tune advice

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Old 09-03-2018 | 07:37 PM
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Default Start up tune advice

Just tried starting my lq4/t56 swapped 240sx and it cranked good then stopped cranking all together. I did not try to turn the key again to see if it would crank again cause it's obvious there's an issue. Maybe there's something off in the tune to where it's flooding the motor and hydrolocking for example. Just put the HPtuners on it and I am not real familiar with the software (had a V1 AEM stand alone before). Car has a cam, ls6 intake, 80Lb injectors, and turbo. If you could take a look at the tune any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 09-04-2018 | 10:21 AM
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Won't crank as in starter does not turn motor, or won't crank as in motor turns but won't fire? Sounds dumb to ask, but you'd be amazed how often those are used interchangeably. I notice you have your maf set to fail, but the codes disabled, so the maf can't fail. You need to set the maf to set a code on first error even on SD OS. Change VATS from "Serial" to "not Fitted". Lowest cell in maf curve, set to 20 g/s to get fuel until the maf fails.
Old 09-04-2018 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Won't crank as in starter does not turn motor, or won't crank as in motor turns but won't fire? Sounds dumb to ask, but you'd be amazed how often those are used interchangeably. I notice you have your maf set to fail, but the codes disabled, so the maf can't fail. You need to set the maf to set a code on first error even on SD OS. Change VATS from "Serial" to "not Fitted". Lowest cell in maf curve, set to 20 g/s to get fuel until the maf fails.
It was a crank no start. Then it stopped cranking at all. Like I said, I did not attempt to turn the key again. I set the maflike that based on what I read elsewhere since I have no maf on the car. Do I still change the settings as you recommended with no maf at all?
Old 09-04-2018 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by partemisio
It was a crank no start. Then it stopped cranking at all. Like I said, I did not attempt to turn the key again. I set the maflike that based on what I read elsewhere since I have no maf on the car. Do I still change the settings as you recommended with no maf at all?
Yes. The ECU needs to set the maf code. You can leave the SES box unchecked, but set it to MIL on first error in the menu option. Set your lowest (usually 1500 Hz) cell to 20 g/s so it gets air until the maf fails. Good news is, it likely didn't flood
Old 09-08-2018 | 12:51 PM
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that file needs an awful lot of work.

also need to know the combo in detail, fuel system type, map sensor, IAT sensor set up etc etc.

luke@dieseltech.com.au
Old 09-08-2018 | 03:21 PM
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So I figured out I have to do some diagnosing with the starter circuit first. I noticed the negative cable at the battery was pretty hot after only about 5 seconds of cranking. Not sure what's going on. I have battery positive ran straight to the starter. I have battery negative ran straight to a starter bolt. Then I have a negative off the battery going to the chassis. And I have a negative from the other starter bolt to the chassis. And I have a negative off one head to the chassis. Not sure what's going on unless the starter itself can cause the hot negative cable.
Old 09-08-2018 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke19901
that file needs an awful lot of work.

also need to know the combo in detail, fuel system type, map sensor, IAT sensor set up etc etc.

luke@dieseltech.com.au
Yeah, I know it is far from being done. I was just trying to get the car started. I had it completely tuned on AEM before the computer went bad. I'm still learning the hptuners software though. LQ4, LS6 intake, 80LB injectors, cam/dual springs/hardened push rods (can get specs of cam if needed), 93 octane fuel right now, 400lph walbro pump, 5 bar map sensor in factory location, AEM IAT sensor, truck manifolds flipped forward for the turbo, hood exit exhaust, t56. I think that's it but if you have other questions let me know.
Old 09-08-2018 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by partemisio
So I figured out I have to do some diagnosing with the starter circuit first. I noticed the negative cable at the battery was pretty hot after only about 5 seconds of cranking. Not sure what's going on. I have battery positive ran straight to the starter. I have battery negative ran straight to a starter bolt. Then I have a negative off the battery going to the chassis. And I have a negative from the other starter bolt to the chassis. And I have a negative off one head to the chassis. Not sure what's going on unless the starter itself can cause the hot negative cable.
why do U have a battery negative running to a starter bolt? You should have battery positive ran to the starter only. The starter should be independently earthed to the chassis or to the engine if the engine has an earth strap to chassis. The battery negative should also be independently ground.

the way you have it has a dead short over starter when the real pulls and sends current to the windings. The current is literally going through the windings to body of the starter to your battery connected ground.


Old 09-08-2018 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke19901


why do U have a battery negative running to a starter bolt? You should have battery positive ran to the starter only. The starter should be independently earthed to the chassis or to the engine if the engine has an earth strap to chassis. The battery negative should also be independently ground.

the way you have it has a dead short over starter when the real pulls and sends current to the windings. The current is literally going through the windings to body of the starter to your battery connected ground.


I have battery negative ran to the starter mounting bolt. The starter still has the engine ground also since I have a ground wire from the engine to chassis. And the starter has a negative from the other mounting bolt to the chassis. I've seen lots of people run battery negative to a starter mounting bolt and I figured that's best so it has as little path as possible for the starting circuit.
Old 09-08-2018 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by partemisio
I have battery negative ran to the starter mounting bolt. The starter still has the engine ground also since I have a ground wire from the engine to chassis. And the starter has a negative from the other mounting bolt to the chassis. I've seen lots of people run battery negative to a starter mounting bolt and I figured that's best so it has as little path as possible for the starting circuit.
starter earths through body and there is no earth post on these like there is on HD starters. You’ve given the starter body a direct path back to the battery. Is draws big amps that current flow will get the negative nice and warm.

i would let the starter earth to the engine alone. Independently ground the engine and battery to the. Chassis. Remove the wire from starter body to battery,
Old 09-08-2018 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke19901


starter earths through body and there is no earth post on these like there is on HD starters. You’ve given the starter body a direct path back to the battery. Is draws big amps that current flow will get the negative nice and warm.

i would let the starter earth to the engine alone. Independently ground the engine and battery to the. Chassis. Remove the wire from starter body to battery,
Put a new starter on it and that problem is fixed. Starter solenoid must have had high resistance.
Old 09-08-2018 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Yes. The ECU needs to set the maf code. You can leave the SES box unchecked, but set it to MIL on first error in the menu option. Set your lowest (usually 1500 Hz) cell to 20 g/s so it gets air until the maf fails. Good news is, it likely didn't flood
Did as you said and the car fired up immediately. It died almost instantly but there's a few things I need to do under the hood before I go any further. I appreciate your help. Will add to this thread if needed once I get the other things taken care of. Thanks again!
Old 09-08-2018 | 05:42 PM
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Any idea what this means? I realized that I had not actually saved the tune (explains why it died since it has a stock 5.3 tune loaded) to the cars computer, just modified it for the future. Tried loading the tune into it and it came up with this message.


Well it won't attach my picture for some reason. It pops up with a message that reads "File OS ID does not match VCM OS ID. File OS1261005 VCM OS 9381344. Please load a file that is compatible with this VCM."

Edit again: Figured out why it was popping up with that message^. I had to click write entire. Now the car won't start again though. Different no start now though. Like it tries to start for a second but wwon't. Currently loaded tune is attached.
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Last edited by partemisio; 09-08-2018 at 06:17 PM.




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