ideally the VE was pretty close, so you can just C&P it in and start scaling up the 100+ kPa cells

maybe find a similar combo and copy those cells over until you can tune the VE

You'll very much want to pull the spark out of the last two rows of the main table (unify both the hi & lo octane tables) I usually take them down to around 11º through peak torque on pump gas w/no meth.

I do a write entire only when changing OS's completely or altering platform specific stuff. There really is no upper limit to the number of flashes. Just be sure your battery is full in both your laptop and your car. all accessories off & laptop not plugged into the wall outlet.

 

also some more notes since I have been doing some canned tunes for my youtube bros.

I put the maf high fail hz at the lowest cell on the table, usually 1500hz. then in the 1500hz and the adjacent cell i put 50lb/hr so the car will fire, idle and then fail the maf ----thanks to darth for that one.

turn off all fuel trims and disable burst knock.

i think thats all i got right off the top of my head

 

 

I run my turbo truck with stft on and narrowbands. it's great. It especially handy for running gas/corn blends. but I also have done a couple swaps with no trims and they drive just fine.

yes you want the trims off while you tune the VE. I forgot to add to disable the DFCO

are you familiar with the commanded versus observed afr histogram?

I misspeak in a couple places ( you want to multiply by, not add to) but here's a vid I made awhile back.

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no sweat on being new to tuning. no one is born knowing any of this. I was in your same shoes once, and I dont consider myself a computer person. But since i have started I've found that tuning is one of the more enjoyable parts of hot rodding.


and dont 100% disable all knock. Just burst knock vs airflow delta. which is a table that retards timing when there is a sharp change in calculated air flow.

 

 

Interesting on the MAF fail portion of your post. I never thought to try it that way. I had an issue about 13 years ago that would have benefited from that idea. I have seen several instances since then when a variation of that would be useful.

 

sounds like you may have anther problem and disabling the maf is only masking the problem. you said the car runs lean with the maf unplugged. it should be richer, you may have a vacuum leak somewhere and the maf is saving your engine from running lean or there is problem with the tune

 

 

oh man that's gonna butt a ringland. drop that timing down into the low teens and sneak up on it.

 

 

Your a right on dude for helping out with this, why I keep coming back and reading all I can about tuning. Thanks for the contribution.

Mike.

 

are you on pumpgas no meth? 2 bar? on a p01 computer? lemme look through my tune cab I might have something that fits your displacement and weight.


it's important to not that even with a 2 bar OS change, the spark table is in g/cyl vs rpm so it actually doesnt really follow MAP all the way into boost. what it does is go the the bottom row at the rpm you are at and use that cell to determine timing (before and adders or retarders for ECT, IAT and stuff like that)

it actually uses the bottom TWO rows to make that calculation. It might seems kinda hacky, but it works really well and simplifies things a great deal.


you're probably getting that error message because you havent upgraded to the newest 4.0 suite. before you do, copy all your tunes and your v3.36 or whatever version you have to a USB. once you download 4.0 it converts everything to be opened by 4.0 only. as you get further into tuning you'll find usefulness in havng tunes that can be opened with the earlier versions.

 

ay man no sweat! so many helped me when I got going. I was a big block and carbs guy scared shitless of all these computers!

 

So here is a rather well sorted out 3 bar camaro tune. You can see how the spark table dips into the low teens in the peak torque area.

I would not copy the VE tables or the PE/BE tables. They are set to run very on edge fuel wise since this set up was refine over many years the fuel system was rock solid. I'd start out with at least 1.28 above 160kPa or 4000 rpm

another tip is instead of using KR as tuning tool, use it only as a "holy **** let off the gas" indicator. on pump gas, you'll stop making power even 3 or 4 degrees before KR is seen (depending on your sensor sensitivity levels)

the best way is the old way. pop a fresh couple plugs in around different cylinders like 1 7 4 8 are my faves (easiest to reach) make one WOT hit and then pull the plugs and see where the timing band is...ideally just below the bend in the strap, up to the bend itself.

 

 

plugs oughta be looking near this. these are tr6 heat range on about 10 psi with 12* timing pump 92 octane. truck ran a 10.99 at 133 that day.

 

that tune I posted is ok to open with 3.36 or 2.24 for compare purposes

 

 

I close em down around .022, stock wires, stock coils