Torque Pro, tablets and OBD2 adapters, oh my
so i have a few "profiles" these are what commands actions on the tablet. first one is when screen is off, data/Wi-Fi/gps are all turned off after 4 min. (inputting a wait time if beneficial to ensure all processes are completed before standby) then i setup screen off in two profiles, one for removal of AC power. the other for removal of USB power. both of these have wait times i setup for 30 min(so i can still see gauges etc. for short stops, in-between track runs, etc.) then i have a profile for the device to launch the torque app(or real-dash...not settled yet.....thanks Joe haha) this launch is triggered via power applied. i have my tablet with no security lock so this not only wakes the screen and therefore restarts data/wifi/Gps but also opens my gauge app and torque you can set to load directly to "realdash" so as soon as ignition power is applied my tablet comes up, unlocks and loads my gauges. as soon as it powers off(thirty min later) the screen turns off with all data and such and goes full standby. there is still power draw as the tablet is still "on" but all your power drawing services are off. too soon to tell but thus far after letting it sit 48 hrs. i unlocked the tablet(no power just unlock button to wake) and it was at 97% battery....if math serves me proper and no other variables present themselves, then at this rate the tablet will maintain battery power for just over 66 days without ignition. also because its not fully off, it boots quick as hell!
if someone else more tech savy has some input or profiles they suggest, etc please share
this is where I'm at meow. It's so difficult to find a tight 90 degree micro USB that either aims down or is tight to the device. I bought this thin ribbon cable one...the cables tight, but the plug sticks out 3/8" or more. I got it to fit. Just basically venting that there isnt anything worthwhile for this job I've found yet lol. Anyways, figured someone would like to see the setup. Basically removed trim, gauge cluster. Then Dissasembled the cluster by removing gauges and then cutting out the cluster bezel trim. Then traced that on to some lexan, made all my gauge cuts and painted the back black. Then drilled and screwed it to the oem bezel and installed.
this is where I'm at meow. It's so difficult to find a tight 90 degree micro USB that either aims down or is tight to the device. I bought this thin ribbon cable one...the cables tight, but the plug sticks out 3/8" or more. I got it to fit. Just basically venting that there isnt anything worthwhile for this job I've found yet lol. Anyways, figured someone would like to see the setup. Basically removed trim, gauge cluster. Then Dissasembled the cluster by removing gauges and then cutting out the cluster bezel trim. Then traced that on to some lexan, made all my gauge cuts and painted the back black. Then drilled and screwed it to the oem bezel and installed.
I had a silly-scope once, it was busted and thus never could spend quality time playing around with it getting comfortable with using one. I wanna say typical GM speedo is 4k PPM sine wave. Or is it square wave? My ignorance from lack of scope time is showing lol.
CB2004mj, what's the pod to the left of the tablet? Reflection kinda blocks the gauge.
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Its great for scanning codes, spot checking temps, checking boost levels in OEM cars without a boost gauge, etc.
Terrible for a gauge cluster.









