Quote:
Id buy one todayOriginally Posted by LSX Power Tuning
Is there a market or need for a 98-411 pcm plug n play option? If there is a big enough demand we plan on going forward on bringing this to market. You would unplug your 98 pcm and plug our modified 411 pcm right into your 98 harness and then your done. Quote:
Me too. Still waitiing. Keep me on the list as a buyer.Originally Posted by floridave
Id buy one today HioSSilver
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Me too!
It got pushed back due to lack of time. Its not forgot about just delayed longer than we wanted.
HioSSilver
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I'm ready!
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastlt1
What about a p59 It will be for a 896/411 pcm....all the stuff is made already.
Quote:
Well I got my tuned 411 from a very well known tuner the other day, set aside a few hours to look at repinning and going that way, next thing you know I had it repinned in a couple hours, PCM plugged in and it fired right up and began to learn immediately...it was a bit tedious and I had to extend about a dozen wires just to make the plugs line up freely with the PCM but I would do it again in a heartbeat to save a few hundred bucks, and now I am familiarized with all of the wires and their uses so future repairs or troubleshooting will be a breeze. If you want to reuse the gray caps on the red and blue connectors you just need to take your time, make sure you extend any short wires even if they seem to fit, and then carefully harness them into groups...clip on the gray caps, and for good measure make sure you have the PCM location isolated from direct water or rainfall since once a repin is done sometimes the pin cavities won’t seal as well as they used to..all in all worth every minute and dollar, around 335 bucks for the PCM and a custom tune for my new ATK HP 97 5.3 install...good luck and don’t be afraid to do it, it’s actually kind of fun lolOriginally Posted by Z28SteveA4
I’m going to be redoing my harness in my 98 in the next couple of months when the new engine goes in. I hope this is out before it’s time to repin lol HioSSilver
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I have a ls6 that will likely be ran on a engine dyno in a few weeks. Would love to have one of these pcm to run it....jus sayin
Dont have good news. Just received update from the company we are working with on this and they are so busy its been delayed for a few more months due to scheduling.
Teching In
I came back around hoping for good news..Looks like i'll be chopping into the harness to get it back on the road..I already have a 99 pcm, so looks like this is the best route...uhhg!!
HioSSilver
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I'm still wanting one
Quote:
Hey wheeljunky, do it up, its so easy, just be very careful with your charts and remember the 99 and up and 98 PCM connectors are reversed colorwise.....if you have an auto, youll have some more wires than if you have an M6 but youll be able to check on the differences using these links:Originally Posted by wheeljunky
I came back around hoping for good news..Looks like i'll be chopping into the harness to get it back on the road..I already have a 99 pcm, so looks like this is the best route...uhhg!! The MRK motorsports color swap pinout chart is here. I printed it and reviewed it and kept it handy, and did it one wire at a time.
The LS1 tech swap thread with pinouts and diagrams for lots of vehicles is here, 98 f body is top of the list: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-diagrams.html Tons of good info on this thread...I just found the MRK pdf to be much easier to use for my needs since its in a very easy to read chart format.
Youll need a tuner to do a "fuel segment swap" on your 411 so your fuel gauge works...and my temp gauge still works, even though I am running my original style 3-wire LS1 1998 version(they went to 2-wire sensors after 98)
Also jump on ebay and buy a set of used connectors, so you dont have to pull them all at once and use a ton of labels..23 bucks well spent.
Good luck!
Dave
Teching In
Quote:
The MRK motorsports color swap pinout chart is here. I printed it and reviewed it and kept it handy, and did it one wire at a time.
The LS1 tech swap thread with pinouts and diagrams for lots of vehicles is here, 98 f body is top of the list: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-diagrams.html Tons of good info on this thread...I just found the MRK pdf to be much easier to use for my needs since its in a very easy to read chart format.
Youll need a tuner to do a "fuel segment swap" on your 411 so your fuel gauge works...and my temp gauge still works, even though I am running my original style 3-wire LS1 1998 version(they went to 2-wire sensors after 98)
Also jump on ebay and buy a set of used connectors, so you dont have to pull them all at once and use a ton of labels..23 bucks well spent.
Good luck!
Dave
Originally Posted by floridave
Hey wheeljunky, do it up, its so easy, just be very careful with your charts and remember the 99 and up and 98 PCM connectors are reversed colorwise.....if you have an auto, youll have some more wires than if you have an M6 but youll be able to check on the differences using these links:The MRK motorsports color swap pinout chart is here. I printed it and reviewed it and kept it handy, and did it one wire at a time.
The LS1 tech swap thread with pinouts and diagrams for lots of vehicles is here, 98 f body is top of the list: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-diagrams.html Tons of good info on this thread...I just found the MRK pdf to be much easier to use for my needs since its in a very easy to read chart format.
Youll need a tuner to do a "fuel segment swap" on your 411 so your fuel gauge works...and my temp gauge still works, even though I am running my original style 3-wire LS1 1998 version(they went to 2-wire sensors after 98)
Also jump on ebay and buy a set of used connectors, so you dont have to pull them all at once and use a ton of labels..23 bucks well spent.
Good luck!
Dave
could you give an example of the connectors that are reversed? The chart doesn't clearly state this?
This page from MRK says it all...the entire process from start to finish is a couple of hours if youre fairly mechanically competent
Im not sure if I forgot to post that link, or it was removed for some reason but here it is: www.not-a-sponsor.com
This is the first paragraph from that pdf you get when you click the link:
To begin the process of converting the 1998 Fbody harness to the 1999-2002 Fbody harness start with C1 RED connector.
Take notice, the 1998 PCM C1 is RED and the C2 connector is BLUE.
The opposite is true for the 1999–2002 PCM. C1 is BLUE and C2 is RED. If you are performing this “in car,” you must disconnect the battery to avoid arc welding.
Remove the Red and Blue covers and label the aluminum connector housings using a permanent marker with the colors red and blue.
Some terminal locations in the connector will need to be perforated with a small sharp pick to allow the terminal to slide into its new location.
So the key is, C1 and C2 are opposite from 98- 99 and up..what I did was just get two used plugs from ebay and take one wire at a time from the old to the new in the car..no labels needed that way, just a few wires extended to make them reach their new location.
This way all I needed was the MRK chart to know where to put the wires from old to new, and I did keep that other chart from the thread here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-diagrams.html on LS1tech so if I wanted to know what a specific wire did, I could go to that..since mine is a M6 some wires werent needed for my swap..
Best of luck,
Dave
Im not sure if I forgot to post that link, or it was removed for some reason but here it is: www.not-a-sponsor.com
This is the first paragraph from that pdf you get when you click the link:
To begin the process of converting the 1998 Fbody harness to the 1999-2002 Fbody harness start with C1 RED connector.
Take notice, the 1998 PCM C1 is RED and the C2 connector is BLUE.
The opposite is true for the 1999–2002 PCM. C1 is BLUE and C2 is RED. If you are performing this “in car,” you must disconnect the battery to avoid arc welding.
Remove the Red and Blue covers and label the aluminum connector housings using a permanent marker with the colors red and blue.
Some terminal locations in the connector will need to be perforated with a small sharp pick to allow the terminal to slide into its new location.
So the key is, C1 and C2 are opposite from 98- 99 and up..what I did was just get two used plugs from ebay and take one wire at a time from the old to the new in the car..no labels needed that way, just a few wires extended to make them reach their new location.
This way all I needed was the MRK chart to know where to put the wires from old to new, and I did keep that other chart from the thread here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-diagrams.html on LS1tech so if I wanted to know what a specific wire did, I could go to that..since mine is a M6 some wires werent needed for my swap..
Best of luck,
Dave
Any updates?
My 98 has been parked for months waiting on this. Would rather not spend nearly a grand on a complete harness and PCM from the 3 to four primary vendors mentioned on this forum. And then after that spend another bunch of money on dyno tune.
Your solution appears to be the best and most economical solution.
I don't feel confident to repin it myself. I followed a repin on EFI live. It went on and on and on and on with issues encountered during the repin.
Some of these vendors that make harnesses and their reviews aren't so good either. Appears one might wait months for a harness and still have issues when you get the harness.
I sent you a PM. Perhaps you might have some other solution for me.
My 98 has been parked for months waiting on this. Would rather not spend nearly a grand on a complete harness and PCM from the 3 to four primary vendors mentioned on this forum. And then after that spend another bunch of money on dyno tune.
Your solution appears to be the best and most economical solution.
I don't feel confident to repin it myself. I followed a repin on EFI live. It went on and on and on and on with issues encountered during the repin.
Some of these vendors that make harnesses and their reviews aren't so good either. Appears one might wait months for a harness and still have issues when you get the harness.
I sent you a PM. Perhaps you might have some other solution for me.
Is your original PCm bricked? If so, you can get some well known tuners to "repair" it for you, but from what I was told by several places..that will cost around 500 bucks or more..otherwise, if you can do simple mechanical work, or feel confident to give it a shot, I feel anyone can do this with just a bit of planning and mental preparation...just make sure you familiarize yourself with the colors, and the placements, and dont let anyone elses failure dictate your level of concern...this is a simple straightforward job, and with some concentration and time spent planning...you CAN do it..good luck!
Quote:
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I sent an email to Lorenz at LSX Perhaps he has another solution for me.Originally Posted by floridave
Is your original PCm bricked? If so, you can get some well known tuners to "repair" it for you, but from what I was told by several places..that will cost around 500 bucks or more..otherwise, if you can do simple mechanical work, or feel confident to give it a shot, I feel anyone can do this with just a bit of planning and mental preparation...just make sure you familiarize yourself with the colors, and the placements, and dont let anyone elses failure dictate your level of concern...this is a simple straightforward job, and with some concentration and time spent planning...you CAN do it..good luck! My main issue with re-pinning is having to lengthen the wires. I am not very good at soldering and don't know anyone that can do it for me. After seeing some of the hack jobs some vendors have done on my car requiring mods to the electrical system - all I need is for someone to overheat the wires and melt the insulation and create a short and burn the car down. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid that when soldering. The harness is fragile enough as it is being over 20 years old.






