What caused your false knock?
The Knock sensors are what Im going to change out next.
The Damper is a brand new ATI damper for the procharger kit.
Motor mounts seem to be fine but who knows.
I have a 4" over the axle exhaust and it was extremely close to the heat shields. I really thought the exhaust was hitting them so I removed them where the over the axle pipe routes through.
Took the car out and the first few pulls I had zero knock with 12 degrees timing (and E75), bumped the timing up to 14 and the next wot pulls all had 4 degrees of knock retard.
BTW: the car was pulling 4 degrees knock with 12 degrees also a few days ago.
Its strange, with the timing at 12 degrees or 14 degrees, the first few pulls I get zero knock, car feels great....then after those first few pulls I start getting the knock.
The Damper is a brand new ATI damper for the procharger kit.
Motor mounts seem to be fine but who knows.
I have a 4" over the axle exhaust and it was extremely close to the heat shields. I really thought the exhaust was hitting them so I removed them where the over the axle pipe routes through.
Took the car out and the first few pulls I had zero knock with 12 degrees timing (and E75), bumped the timing up to 14 and the next wot pulls all had 4 degrees of knock retard.
BTW: the car was pulling 4 degrees knock with 12 degrees also a few days ago.
Its strange, with the timing at 12 degrees or 14 degrees, the first few pulls I get zero knock, car feels great....then after those first few pulls I start getting the knock.
Im assuming false knock. 4" exhaust and tight areas was my first guess. I dont hear any banging of any sort. No clunking.
The shortblock has forged pistons and rods. Ive read that could make the engine noisier and cause false knock.
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Verdad Gallardo I havent change the octane. Im running E75.
Since Im new to tuning, I have the timing set to 12 degrees until I get my A/F dialed in.
I removed all the heat shields today and went out for a ride. First big pull felt good and saw no knock. I decided to bump the timing up to 14. Did a few more pulls and saw 4 degrees knock retard. Same as it was before I removed the heat shields and the timing was at 12 degrees.
Since Im new to tuning, I have the timing set to 12 degrees until I get my A/F dialed in.
I removed all the heat shields today and went out for a ride. First big pull felt good and saw no knock. I decided to bump the timing up to 14. Did a few more pulls and saw 4 degrees knock retard. Same as it was before I removed the heat shields and the timing was at 12 degrees.
Oh if you're on E there's no way that's real. Have you tried logging all the other spark pids to confirm there isn't something else pulling timing? Burst knock disabled? How do the plugs look? Something else you should do in the tune is crank up the recovery rate. It stops a single instance of knock from pulling timing for a long period of time and narrows down where it's actually seeing knock. You can also chop the knock attack rate to minimize the intrusiveness.
Oh if you're on E there's no way that's real. Have you tried logging all the other spark pids to confirm there isn't something else pulling timing? Burst knock disabled? How do the plugs look? Something else you should do in the tune is crank up the recovery rate. It stops a single instance of knock from pulling timing for a long period of time and narrows down where it's actually seeing knock. You can also chop the knock attack rate to minimize the intrusiveness.
While looking at my logs, I noticed, as soon as my A/F commanded goes from 10.45 to my PE A/F of 8.17, that's exactly when I get the 4 degrees of knock retard.
The scan reads like this as I click :
3393rpms, 10.45 a/f, 0 KR
3420rpms, 10.45 a/f, 1.4 KR
3460rpms, 8.17 a/f, 3.6 KR
3502rpms, 8.17 a/f, 4.0. KR
And continued with 4 degrees of KR up 6000 rpm.
Interesting. almost every instance of false knock I have seen was due to long tube headers banging on something. The others were magically fixed when old motor or transmission mounts were replaced. I have heard of but never experienced issues with home turbo kits that hit frame rails.