Injector circuit #4 short / open *** WHERE to start
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Injector circuit #4 short / open *** WHERE to start
Bottom line up front:
Have a injector circuit short, but have 12v at the injector harness, verified the harness was seated at the injector, and the injectors ohms out within Bosch spec ~9.2 ohms. cleared the codes, let it idle for about 5 minutes and it came back. It never had the Cyl #4 misfire code, but if it has an injector short it wouldn't be getting fuel? Full build list below
Shadily built '02 SS/M6, (bought it comeplete) with the following
Iron 5.3 bored to 3.898, gen 4 rods, forged pistons
Huron Speed V3/T4 kit
80mm M3USA (ebay turbo?)
BTR EQ1 intake and fuel rails
hand ported 862s, 225cc intake runner, 87cc exhaust, healthy bowl cuts, stock valve sizes
160lb injectors (supposed to be Bosch but look questionable)
twin in tank Walboro 450s (trap door mod, but he never replaced the cut out portion or redid the vent, so it ALWAYS smells like fuel in the cabin lol)
-8 and -10 fuel lines
BTR stg3 turbo cam and supporting valve train
No name manual boost controller, waste gate has 10 pound spring in it
Hasnt been tuned since the build, except for a quick baseline to get it on and off trailers. Has a ton of other codes, but this code is the one i want to tackle first, as it seems the most potentially harmful. I want to get it running correctly before i take it to get tuned to save the tuner and myself a ton of headaches. Where do I start on this issue? The circuit is ground switched iirc. Any help is appreciated.
Its borderline frustrating because this car has a lot of nice parts but was put together half-assed. I'm contemplating just tearing it apart and re-doing the whole thing and Dominator/TermyX swapping it
Have a injector circuit short, but have 12v at the injector harness, verified the harness was seated at the injector, and the injectors ohms out within Bosch spec ~9.2 ohms. cleared the codes, let it idle for about 5 minutes and it came back. It never had the Cyl #4 misfire code, but if it has an injector short it wouldn't be getting fuel? Full build list below
Shadily built '02 SS/M6, (bought it comeplete) with the following
Iron 5.3 bored to 3.898, gen 4 rods, forged pistons
Huron Speed V3/T4 kit
80mm M3USA (ebay turbo?)
BTR EQ1 intake and fuel rails
hand ported 862s, 225cc intake runner, 87cc exhaust, healthy bowl cuts, stock valve sizes
160lb injectors (supposed to be Bosch but look questionable)
twin in tank Walboro 450s (trap door mod, but he never replaced the cut out portion or redid the vent, so it ALWAYS smells like fuel in the cabin lol)
-8 and -10 fuel lines
BTR stg3 turbo cam and supporting valve train
No name manual boost controller, waste gate has 10 pound spring in it
Hasnt been tuned since the build, except for a quick baseline to get it on and off trailers. Has a ton of other codes, but this code is the one i want to tackle first, as it seems the most potentially harmful. I want to get it running correctly before i take it to get tuned to save the tuner and myself a ton of headaches. Where do I start on this issue? The circuit is ground switched iirc. Any help is appreciated.
Its borderline frustrating because this car has a lot of nice parts but was put together half-assed. I'm contemplating just tearing it apart and re-doing the whole thing and Dominator/TermyX swapping it
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LowBudgetRacer (07-10-2020)
#3
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LowBudgetRacer (07-13-2020)
#5
9 Second Club
injector short ?
Obvious first step is unplug the injector and see if that fault code goes away/changes.
But a short and open circuit are two very different things....so which is it ?
Obvious first step is unplug the injector and see if that fault code goes away/changes.
But a short and open circuit are two very different things....so which is it ?
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LowBudgetRacer (07-13-2020)
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
I'm using a cheap amazon code reader, but it says injector cicruit #4 open / short. It doesnt really clarify lol, havent tested moving the injector around yet.
#7
9 Second Club
you dont need to move anything to test. Just unplug it and see if a different code emerges.
Or test with a noid light or similar to see if there is any connection with the ecu and whether it gets a signal.
Although you could just plug the wiring into an injector beside it, or even a spare injector sitting in your hand to test and see if codes change.
Or test with a noid light or similar to see if there is any connection with the ecu and whether it gets a signal.
Although you could just plug the wiring into an injector beside it, or even a spare injector sitting in your hand to test and see if codes change.
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#8
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Thread Starter
you dont need to move anything to test. Just unplug it and see if a different code emerges.
Or test with a noid light or similar to see if there is any connection with the ecu and whether it gets a signal.
Although you could just plug the wiring into an injector beside it, or even a spare injector sitting in your hand to test and see if codes change.
Or test with a noid light or similar to see if there is any connection with the ecu and whether it gets a signal.
Although you could just plug the wiring into an injector beside it, or even a spare injector sitting in your hand to test and see if codes change.
I'm thinking im just going to terminator swap this pile of wiring misery and start fixing other glaring issues in the meantime, like the still open trapdoor, or the clear fishtank air hose used for the manual boost controller