So swapped in a Ls3/4l80e in my 98 camaro both trans and motor completely stock outside of headers. Using a 2002 camaro pcm that was repinned years ago before the ls1 went out so were good there. 98 wiring harness adpated and using the 24to58x lingenfelter box to make it all work. Got the swap running good for like a month or two running good and now after it warms up and it starts cutting out, the gauges jump everywhere and basicaLly like the car shuts off and on till it dies right afterward.

 

The pcm is only 3years old, have replaced both 02 sensors, 140amp alternator, new “big 3” thicker wiring off battery to starter/alt/fuses, made sure was very tight and had clean grounds on this install, racetronics 255lph fuel pump a year old with hotwire kit to alternator, cleaned injectors, and my tuner said everything looked good so im maxed out of knowledge or things to try what do you guys think? I find it hard to believe my pcm is bad?

 

Please guys! Bump

 

Does your tuner agree with the way off fuel trims that the dealer saw?

 

That'd be the first place I looked too. If your fuel trims are that far off, it's probably not going to run well.
Do the gauges going haywire and the stalling occur at the same time? If you, that sounds like an electrical connection problem. Maybe start by watching the power and ground wires to the gauges and see which one is goofing up.

 

A couple of things I would check.

Is there an exhaust leak on that bank?

Are all your injectors working correctly that bank? Depending on how the misfire tables were tuned, it may not give you a code.

 

can i reset the fuel trims or does the tuner have to do that?.. gauges going haywire and stalling are simultaneous.. ill look into where those ground rightnow, ive pretty much check all of them and cleaned them all though, also redid some wires that were slightly burnt from the headers to tale that out of question

 

cleaned all the injectors with them removed and also did some of that sea foam and changed the fuel filter afterwards, i had swapped the injectors from driver side to the passenger side and the problem stayed on bank 1

 

Why would this be zeroed out? The wiring looks good i gotta follow it throughout the harness to make sure once this motor cools down

 

My understanding on the trims is its throwing too much fuel but this code says its lean? Let me know what you guys think.. ill double check any exhaust header leaks today as well

 

Your taking an engine/trans swapped vehicle to a dealership?
Have you verified you dont have any vacuum leaks?
what maf are you running?
have you verified injector data in tune is correct?
do you habe 58 psi fuel pressure?
are you o2 sensors reading correctly?
Your tuner should be able to help you with things of this sort, if he cant then you need a new tuner.

 

you can reset fuel trims with any scanner that has bi-directional controls. Disconnecting the battery also resets the fuel trims.
If the gauges go nuts the same time the engine does, it is VERY unlikely it is anything other than something they have in common. That would almost certainly be a power or ground problem. If that's the case, don't waste time by visually checking connections. Get your meter out and measure your power and ground wires. You will have to drive it until it messes up to see anything.
Joe

 

so i wanted to go to my normal mechanic but hes packed not sure why i went to the dealer.. verified that i have 58psi on the fuel rail, ran an actual smoke machine and have no vacuum leaks, im looking for a new tuner to be honest that could help me, 26year old kid he smart but I need someone with more knowledge and i could trust to look the tune over.. if you know anyone in socal area let me know.. tomorrow with day light ill try swapping o2 sensors from pass. To driver side to see if anything changes even though i put a brand new denso in.. running the 100mm maf from Hawks motorsport with their bigger lid with it

 

got it tomorrow ill get the multimeter out and try that.. the trip odometer also resets when it starts acting up if that points me in a better direction where to look if you know?

 

When it gets hot thats when the problems begin, which is when it starts running off of the o2 sensors and in closed loop correct?

 

Most are programmed to hit closed loop after then engine reaches around 140F, but this isn't part of the equation. There's no way O2 sensors, fuel trims or any other sensor problem is going to cause the gauges to blink out and the engine to stall at the same time.

 

forsure, thx for the help so far bro and the others too its helping aton

 

#1 find you a good tuner
#2 assuming you use hp tuners, purchase it?
#3 download anydesk on your laptop
Im on holley but that is how my tuner makes adjustments on my truck, anydesk allows the tuner to take full control of your laptop from wherever he may be without needing to be local, and whats neat about it i can watch whatever adjustments hes making on my truck by just watching my laptop.

 

Forgot to wrap up the thread but ended up tuning the car to run in open loop for the time being the wiring in the 02s is messed up hence why once it got hot it started dumping a crazy amount of extra fuel stalling the car out

 

I read all of this. My experience about one year ago when my new engine went in. My engine and codes went crazy and the engine and transmission ran like hell spitting and coughing and barely staying on....I got like 10 different codes from transmission shift solenoids to MAF, to O2 sensors, to all kinds of unrelated codes that absilutely were false codes. I too have a 4L80E swap, 8 years now.......and after my engine was removed to put that new engine in.....the installer (or the other shop who removed my engine) stretched my 4L80E-to-4L60E PCM adapter cable (Frost adapter) and yanked the ground pin wire out of its plug head so no contact was beimng made by just that ground with the other plug it fit into on the transmission case.

The transmission would start off in 3rd gear and as I slowly accelerated shift to 2nd and then into 1st.....YUP...totally backwards shifting....who would have guessed that could ever happen.....the converter was trying to lock up going 10 mph through a parking lot.

One smart fella found it after three shops had no clue. I bought a new Frost adapter cable and put it on and BAM....no codes all was perfect.

So maybe check it.......