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Reducing fuel smell in tune

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Old Dec 12, 2025 | 07:45 AM
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Default Reducing fuel smell in tune

My 6.0/turbo '84 Jaguar has been great to cruise around in as a summer ride, but the one thing I'd like to improve is the exhaust smell. The thing stinks like fuel all the time and will water your eyes unless you're doing at least 30.

I have read that EOIT (end of injection timing) can be played with to prevent raw fuel going out the tailpipe. Any other tips on tune tweaks to make it more enjoyable? Unfortunately the car is stored for the winter so I don't have access to be able to post the tune.



Setup:

Gen 3 6.0, bone stock other than Sloppy Stage 2 cam, Specs: 228/230 .585"/.585" 112 LSA

Fuel: 93 and pump ethanol (E30 up to E70) depending on availability

Injectors: Siemens Deka 80s

Exhaust: 3" downpipe, Flowmaster 3" 3-way catalytic converter (FLO-2000130)

ECU: Terminator X, self tuned on the street

I welded in the cat hoping it would knock down the smell but unfortunately it seems to have made no difference.

PFA



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Old Dec 12, 2025 | 11:28 AM
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I understand your feelings on this, I once had a 3v mustang without cats and it eventually made the car unenjoyable to daily drive.

I bet the catalytic converter is not "lighting off" since it's understandably a good ways behind a turbo. How far downstream is it? Is the plumbing of the wastegate back into the down pipe or open?

Very cool ride btw!
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Old Dec 12, 2025 | 06:14 PM
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In for answers.
Similar problem with "STINKY EXHAUST" on daily driver Suburban, even went as far as weld in High Flow CAT just after Down-pipe.
I have been told that RETARDING the spark at idle, and cruise can HEAT th cat and make it more efficient, but I like the throttle response I get from spark ADVANCE.
Let me know, keep us posted on the exact changes you attempt with EOIT.
My reading on the subject just confuses me more. the actual settings seem counter intuitive- HPTuners rendition of GM's oem line codes are less than transparent.
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Old Dec 13, 2025 | 03:32 PM
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So the first question is, what do you currently have your injector end angle set to in the Term X? Without knowing that everything else is just guessing...
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Old Dec 15, 2025 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by etextown
I understand your feelings on this, I once had a 3v mustang without cats and it eventually made the car unenjoyable to daily drive.

I bet the catalytic converter is not "lighting off" since it's understandably a good ways behind a turbo. How far downstream is it? Is the plumbing of the wastegate back into the down pipe or open?

Very cool ride btw!
Unfortunately the cat is pretty far from the turbo, in the middle of the car. No room for it closer to the engine. WG is recirculated back into the DP.

Originally Posted by Full Power
In for answers.
Similar problem with "STINKY EXHAUST" on daily driver Suburban, even went as far as weld in High Flow CAT just after Down-pipe.
I have been told that RETARDING the spark at idle, and cruise can HEAT th cat and make it more efficient, but I like the throttle response I get from spark ADVANCE.
Let me know, keep us posted on the exact changes you attempt with EOIT.
My reading on the subject just confuses me more. the actual settings seem counter intuitive- HPTuners rendition of GM's oem line codes are less than transparent.
Will keep you posted once I take the car out of storage in the spring.

Originally Posted by NicD
So the first question is, what do you currently have your injector end angle set to in the Term X? Without knowing that everything else is just guessing...
Gonna dig into my files and see if I can find it.
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Old Dec 19, 2025 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by LQ4-E39
My 6.0/turbo '84 Jaguar has been great to cruise around in as a summer ride, but the one thing I'd like to improve is the exhaust smell. The thing stinks like fuel all the time and will water your eyes unless you're doing at least 30.

I have read that EOIT (end of injection timing) can be played with to prevent raw fuel going out the tailpipe. Any other tips on tune tweaks to make it more enjoyable? Unfortunately the car is stored for the winter so I don't have access to be able to post the tune.



Setup:

Gen 3 6.0, bone stock other than Sloppy Stage 2 cam, Specs: 228/230 .585"/.585" 112 LSA

Fuel: 93 and pump ethanol (E30 up to E70) depending on availability

Injectors: Siemens Deka 80s

Exhaust: 3" downpipe, Flowmaster 3" 3-way catalytic converter (FLO-2000130)

ECU: Terminator X, self tuned on the street

I welded in the cat hoping it would knock down the smell but unfortunately it seems to have made no difference.

PFA



Use this spreadsheet for injector end angle table post #96. All instructions are included. Just add an advanced 2D table

https://forums.holley.com/forum/holl...e-tuning/page7
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Old Dec 19, 2025 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 91 Z28
Use this spreadsheet for injector end angle table post #96. All instructions are included. Just add an advanced 2D table

https://forums.holley.com/forum/holl...e-tuning/page7
That is a good spreadsheet to put you in the ballpark and it's easy enough to make adjustments in the idle specific areas if necessary. The method he uses targets the beginning of injection right after the exhaust valve closes to avoid the overlap area (when the intake and exhaust valve are both open). It has lots of assumptions built in like port velocity, etc and while you can make adjustments to it you are just guessing unless you are using some sort of engine analyzer program. Either way, much better than the built in Holley calculator that tries to center the injection pulse on the ICL which I really don't like. The larger the injectors the more of a difference this will all make at lower pulse widths. Just keep in mind that it may also be beneficial to inject earlier on top of the intake valve when the engine is cold to help the fuel vaporize on the back of the hot valve and then roll it back at operating temperature, just like the OEMs do it (with no overlap of course). Just as a test you could set it static at -90 which is 450 deg EOI and see if that helps, pretty much guarantee no overlap there ever.

Last edited by NicD; Dec 19, 2025 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Dec 19, 2025 | 01:27 PM
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From: Armstrong BC
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Originally Posted by NicD
That is a good spreadsheet to put you in the ballpark and it's easy enough to make adjustments in the idle specific areas if necessary. The method he uses targets the beginning of injection right after the exhaust valve closes to avoid the overlap area (when the intake and exhaust valve are both open). It has lots of assumptions built in like port velocity, etc and while you can make adjustments to it you are just guessing unless you are using some sort of engine analyzer program. Either way, much better than the built in Holley calculator that tries to center the injection pulse on the ICL which I really don't like. The larger the injectors the more of a difference this will all make at lower pulse widths. Just keep in mind that it may also be beneficial to inject earlier on top of the intake valve when the engine is cold to help the fuel vaporize on the back of the hot valve and then roll it back at operating temperature, just like the OEMs do it (with no overlap of course). Just as a test you could set it static at -90 which is 450 deg EOI and see if that helps, pretty much guarantee no overlap there ever.
I totally agree with you on that. That spreadsheet isn't the end all answer but it's night and day better than the built in Holley stuff. I didn't bother touching any of the intake port velocity I just left that be but everything else was inputted values. It's helped me out but if you wanted it perfect you'd need an engine analyzer program like you said
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