Can you have a bad o2 sensor w/out throwing a code?
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From: It's hard work to look this good
Can you have a bad o2 sensor w/out throwing a code? I'm not sure what is going on here but I have been having a misfire problem.
I have replaced plugs,wires,coil packs,injectors and then the other day I noticed when it is in it's problem mode which is sparatic and not all the time just through out the day, The air to fuel ratio gauge I have hooked up to bank two starts doing all kinds of wierd ****, like not moving at all or every thing lighting up at once or just going crazy basically. My gauge on bank one is acting normal. My misfire according to advance and auto zones scanner is #6 cylinder, I have replaced everything that I listed and still have the problem
when I saw the gauge acting funny this led me to believe it was the wiring that I installed for the gauge especially since it is the gauge that is on the same side as #6 cylinder (bank 2) . To know suprise the wire was freyed and some what melted in different sections. I disconnected the gauge all together
I used the splice connector that speed inc sells so I did not actually splice into the wires,it plugs inbetween the factory harness and the o2 sensor with a purple wire that sicks out for you to hook to. I was wondering could the sensor itself be fried being that the wire was freyed and just not throw a code. The only code I have gotten was just the misfire code and I can't figure out what else to replace.
I have replaced plugs,wires,coil packs,injectors and then the other day I noticed when it is in it's problem mode which is sparatic and not all the time just through out the day, The air to fuel ratio gauge I have hooked up to bank two starts doing all kinds of wierd ****, like not moving at all or every thing lighting up at once or just going crazy basically. My gauge on bank one is acting normal. My misfire according to advance and auto zones scanner is #6 cylinder, I have replaced everything that I listed and still have the problem
when I saw the gauge acting funny this led me to believe it was the wiring that I installed for the gauge especially since it is the gauge that is on the same side as #6 cylinder (bank 2) . To know suprise the wire was freyed and some what melted in different sections. I disconnected the gauge all together
I used the splice connector that speed inc sells so I did not actually splice into the wires,it plugs inbetween the factory harness and the o2 sensor with a purple wire that sicks out for you to hook to. I was wondering could the sensor itself be fried being that the wire was freyed and just not throw a code. The only code I have gotten was just the misfire code and I can't figure out what else to replace.
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by Tranzaman00
I'm not sure what is going on here but I have been having a misfire problem.
I have replaced plugs,wires,coil packs,injectors and then the other day I noticed when it is in it's problem mode which is sparatic and not all the time just through out the day, The air to fuel ratio gauge I have hooked up to bank two starts doing all kinds of wierd ****, like not moving at all or every thing lighting up at once or just going crazy basically. My gauge on bank one is acting normal. My misfire according to advance and auto zones scanner is #6 cylinder, I have replaced everything that I listed and still have the problem
when I saw the gauge acting funny this led me to believe it was the wiring that I installed for the gauge especially since it is the gauge that is on the same side as #6 cylinder (bank 2) . To know suprise the wire was freyed and some what melted in different sections. I disconnected the gauge all together
I used the splice connector that speed inc sells so I did not actually splice into the wires,it plugs inbetween the factory harness and the o2 sensor with a purple wire that sicks out for you to hook to. I was wondering could the sensor itself be fried being that the wire was freyed and just not throw a code. The only code I have gotten was just the misfire code and I can't figure out what else to replace.
I have replaced plugs,wires,coil packs,injectors and then the other day I noticed when it is in it's problem mode which is sparatic and not all the time just through out the day, The air to fuel ratio gauge I have hooked up to bank two starts doing all kinds of wierd ****, like not moving at all or every thing lighting up at once or just going crazy basically. My gauge on bank one is acting normal. My misfire according to advance and auto zones scanner is #6 cylinder, I have replaced everything that I listed and still have the problem
when I saw the gauge acting funny this led me to believe it was the wiring that I installed for the gauge especially since it is the gauge that is on the same side as #6 cylinder (bank 2) . To know suprise the wire was freyed and some what melted in different sections. I disconnected the gauge all together
I used the splice connector that speed inc sells so I did not actually splice into the wires,it plugs inbetween the factory harness and the o2 sensor with a purple wire that sicks out for you to hook to. I was wondering could the sensor itself be fried being that the wire was freyed and just not throw a code. The only code I have gotten was just the misfire code and I can't figure out what else to replace.
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From: It's hard work to look this good
Originally Posted by monodax
Why don't you try swapping your O2 sensors around and see if the problem follows the sensor?
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by Tranzaman00
Whats the best way to get it out. It seems to be to far up to get anything around the hex area. I tried using robo grips on the round area but it didn't work it just dug into the metal.
I typically use a long 7/8" wrench.
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I went and got a 7/8 long wrench and I still can't get it to budge. It barley grabs the hex area and if I push to hard it wants to slip off. I'm afraid if I try this to many times it will round it off and then I'll really be screwed. I'm not even sure if this is the problem being I haven't thrown the code so I hate to mess anything up any further.
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by Tranzaman00
I went and got a 7/8 long wrench and I still can't get it to budge. It barley grabs the hex area and if I push to hard it wants to slip off. I'm afraid if I try this to many times it will round it off and then I'll really be screwed. I'm not even sure if this is the problem being I haven't thrown the code so I hate to mess anything up any further.
They also make an O2 sensor socket for a ratchet if you can get it on there. I only used a 7/8" wrench but I have seen the O2 sensor socket in parts stores. It looks like a normal socket with a slot in it for the wire.
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From: It's hard work to look this good
Originally Posted by monodax
They also make an O2 sensor socket for a ratchet if you can get it on there. I only used a 7/8" wrench but I have seen the O2 sensor socket in parts stores. It looks like a normal socket with a slot in it for the wire.
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From: Atlanta, GA
well you'll throw a code when the o2 sensor is fried 
1.race gas = slow fry
2. coolant/oil = medium fry
3. dropping = good chance to fry
4. that thread lube = VERY good chance to fry
if you are dealing with rusty old ****, PB BLAST it, then if that dont work, torch it (no joke). but defo use the socket
1.race gas = slow fry
2. coolant/oil = medium fry
3. dropping = good chance to fry
4. that thread lube = VERY good chance to fry
if you are dealing with rusty old ****, PB BLAST it, then if that dont work, torch it (no joke). but defo use the socket
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From: It's hard work to look this good
Originally Posted by samz28
well you'll throw a code when the o2 sensor is fried
1.race gas = slow fry
2. coolant/oil = medium fry
3. dropping = good chance to fry
4. that thread lube = VERY good chance to fry
if you are dealing with rusty old ****, PB BLAST it, then if that dont work, torch it (no joke). but defo use the socket
1.race gas = slow fry
2. coolant/oil = medium fry
3. dropping = good chance to fry
4. that thread lube = VERY good chance to fry
if you are dealing with rusty old ****, PB BLAST it, then if that dont work, torch it (no joke). but defo use the socket
Thanks, do you think I did any damage to the pcm when the wire got slightly melted and freyed. I know it had to have been getting wet when it rained and possibly grounding out if it was rubbing metal.
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by Tranzaman00
Thanks, do you think I did any damage to the pcm when the wire got slightly melted and freyed. I know it had to have been getting wet when it rained and possibly grounding out if it was rubbing metal.
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From: It's hard work to look this good
Originally Posted by samz28
if the +12V heater power wire touches the 0-1V o2 signal wire, well thats could be naughty
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
I've been doing searches on this kinda same problem. I have a air/fuel ratio gauge also and when i first start the car its fine. but when i start to go the gauge will go nuts. it moves really fast. my other problem is that when i come to a stop my car wants to act like its gonna die. No SES light. its a rough idle. not everytime either. i have recently changed plugs and wires (NGK TR55 and MSD wires). I replaced my fuel filter. I tried the idle air control valve. That wasnt the problem either. I'm running out of ideas. I have recently moved from Kentucky to South Texas. So i dont know if the climate change would have that much of a difference on the car.
