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Cold weather tuning questions???

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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 06:58 AM
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Default Cold weather tuning questions???

Last night I messed around with my nitrous on the dyno. Two months ago a 125 shot put out some good #'s in 80 degree weather and 78 percent humidity with 3 degree's of timing retard. I sprayed the same shot with the same timing retard and last night I received detonation. I was told that because of the colder temps the air is denser thereby increasing cylinder pressure and that I would need to decrease my base timing as well. Well I ended up reducing timing to 5 degree's and no KR, but I made almost the same gains as in the summer months. Now all of this was just on pump gas. I am sure if I had a race gas mix or straight 100 octane I would be able to run with very little if any retarded. My static compression is between 11.7:1 and 11.9:1. I think closer to 11.9:1. Maybe my 250/257 lsa 112 is not big enough Any thoughts????
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 08:42 AM
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Default Leaner

In colder weather yes the air is denser causing the A/F to run leaner, This is why cars make more power in the winter time becuse of the leaner mixture. When the heat comes back the A/F will get richer so tune accordingly by adding more fuel or reduce the timing or a little of both, whichever gives you the most safest power....
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:01 AM
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KR will be back in the spring ;-)
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:14 AM
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I guess I found a disadvantage of a dry shot I will add more fuel with my boost a pump and reduce timing. Time to add that second wet stage..
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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Also, I just thought of something. The last time I sprayed it I had the cutouts closed. This time I had the cutouts open which caused a much leaner condition.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 08:08 PM
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Your MAF and IAT will compensate for colder temps. I have seen this on many cars. The MAF will read higher lbs/min in cooler weather.

Do you have a seperate program for that dry shot? If not your A/F is gonna be lean re-guardless...
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
Your MAF and IAT will compensate for colder temps. I have seen this on many cars. The MAF will read higher lbs/min in cooler weather.

Do you have a seperate program for that dry shot? If not your A/F is gonna be lean re-guardless...
I have no separate tune, but I have the ability to decrease timing and adding more fuel via a boost a pump.
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 05:15 AM
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Ahhh, Boost A Pump, the Band Aid fix.....

I have a NOS 5177 Dry Kit on my car and the only way to get your A/F right is to use a seperate tune for N20 and tune it on the dyno. With your 408ci, your gonna need some very large injectors with that size of dry shot....
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
Ahhh, Boost A Pump, the Band Aid fix.....

I have a NOS 5177 Dry Kit on my car and the only way to get your A/F right is to use a seperate tune for N20 and tune it on the dyno. With your 408ci, your gonna need some very large injectors with that size of dry shot....
I have 42lb injectors. That should be more than enough. The only time my car leaned out is when I opened the cutout. The next stage is a wet kit. So I will be able to control my a/f easily. The boost a pump does wonders
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 06:58 PM
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You dont need seperate tunes. With the dry shot you can add timing retard and fuel into the program while on dry nitrous only. Then under normal WOT you will staill have your more agressive NA tune. Jeremy Formato of Formato's Fasterproms has been doing it this way far some time and it works well. My car would be at 12.8 to 1 on motor and when I would spray the 300 shot dry it would retard timing 10 degrees and AF would go to 11.8 to 1 or so. Works damn good.
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by VINCE
I have 42lb injectors. That should be more than enough. The only time my car leaned out is when I opened the cutout. The next stage is a wet kit. So I will be able to control my a/f easily. The boost a pump does wonders

Your have 42lb injectors for your setup??? Are they SVO 42lb? If not you are on the edge of hitting 100% duty cycle when you are running N/A. Then you are using a 100 dry shot on top of it???

If you have SVO 42lb injectors you'll be fine, if not your f'd....

Just trying to help...
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
You dont need seperate tunes. With the dry shot you can add timing retard and fuel into the program while on dry nitrous only. Then under normal WOT you will staill have your more agressive NA tune. Jeremy Formato of Formato's Fasterproms has been doing it this way far some time and it works well. My car would be at 12.8 to 1 on motor and when I would spray the 300 shot dry it would retard timing 10 degrees and AF would go to 11.8 to 1 or so. Works damn good.

Please teach me then, seriously.

A 300 Dry shot, come on, you know how big the injectors would have to be???

I've been running a 75 dry shot for 2 years now and I can see how you can have "2 different tables" for a dry N20 shot, but 2 different tables for WOT PE for a dry shot??? Thats

Last time I checked, there is only 1 WOT PE table to adjust your A/F ratio with....
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 06:55 AM
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you can just mod the table pointer of the ecm code to switch tables on the fly. oh yeah you might need a code warrior to do it but its only 68332 (sorta) not exactly the most complex ecu on the planet.
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 07:31 AM
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Higher humidity (water) decreases the density of air. Water is lighter than the nitrogen and oxygen it is replacing.
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
Please teach me then, seriously.

A 300 Dry shot, come on, you know how big the injectors would have to be???
maybe I missed something, but I thought 42lbs/hr injectors were good for a very large amount of power, so how is this unreasonable?

Originally Posted by Billiumss
I've been running a 75 dry shot for 2 years now and I can see how you can have "2 different tables" for a dry N20 shot, but 2 different tables for WOT PE for a dry shot??? Thats

Last time I checked, there is only 1 WOT PE table to adjust your A/F ratio with....
Jeremy's been configuring n2o cars like that for a good while, and every one I've seen has been a monster both on and off the spray, without having to reprogram between each.. not sure where the mystery here is.. just remember its a dry shot, its probably passing some important sensors that would probably notice a change
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Old Dec 23, 2004 | 03:53 PM
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383LQ4... can you hit me with a PM sometime. We are close to maxing out the maf with a heads/cam dry nitrous car. 400 rwhp thru T400/12 bolt/steel shaft and 537 on the spray. It was a little lean though. 12.8:1 on the motor, and still 12.8:1 on spray first pull. Thru fuel at it thru the PE table richened it to 12.0:1 still made same power on the nitrous, but Id like it to be richer. Problem is with the maf, its not gettign enough enrichment via MAF alone. Im wondering if I scaled the maf table by 90% and the injectors by 90% (so it would lean out via maf and richen up via injector) it would make it run richer when the maf reading skyrockets on nitrous. Or am I backwards?
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Old Dec 23, 2004 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
In colder weather yes the air is denser causing the A/F to run leaner, This is why cars make more power in the winter time becuse of the leaner mixture. When the heat comes back the A/F will get richer so tune accordingly by adding more fuel or reduce the timing or a little of both, whichever gives you the most safest power....
That's really weird, because my LTFTs go up (leaner) the hotter it is outside.
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