Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

Hey, what is the reason or reasons it's better to do the recal on the throttle body blade to TPS than to drill the blade? From what I've read I'm thinking the IAC count is lower??? I understand you're basically "fooling" the computer to think throttle is is closed when it's actually about 3% open to allow better idle. Thanks for any info as I'm ready to do one of them tomorrow.

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

I'm interested in what people think about this too. I just changed from a drilled blade to a raised idle screw & reset TPS when I installed my Yank. Both ways allow extra air in for cam surges. The drilled blade seems to cause the run-on issue when in gear for automatics, while the idle screw method does not. IAC counts are about 54 now....forget what they were before.

luv2spd

iTrader: (1)

I would go with the set screw method. That way you can adjust it until its just right. I think you want the IAC counts to be around 40 on a hot idle.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

the only real diff between the two is the screw can be undone.
drilling cannot.


everything else is semantics.


if you never have to "go back" and you drill carefully and get it right.........

....it works exactly the same as the blade being a little more open and the TPS reset.



really, people make more of a issue of it then it really is.

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

I haven't had luch with the set screw method yet. After doing it MANY times on other cars and posting it always works, it won't work on mine now no matter what I do.

Set it to ~2% and turn off the car, unplug the TPS sensor, turn on the car and it reads Zero, turn car off, plug it back in, turn car on and it reads ~2% again.

pkincy

iTrader: (1)

I have done both. Drilled the blade til it was close and than did the final adjusting with the set screw.

The blade being open a lot exposes a lot of area and the adjustments are harder. Get the air close and than the set screw is just cracking the blade.

Perry

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

Perry,
When you do it that way, do you still have to reset the TPS sensor?

Thanks
Craig

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

when you change the set screw, you change the "signal" for where 0% throttle should be.

so yes, anytime that screw is moved, you should reset the TPS.

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

i can't get mine to reset.

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

Any ideas on what I'm missing? It reads zero when I turn the car off, unplug it and read but as soon as I plug it back in and turn the key on it goes right back.

SSkeet

I am trying to get a 408 with 90/90 intake setup and big cam running. If I adjust the set screw A LOT, it will run, but then the TPS voltage reads .85 which I know is way too much. I have read you want it to be between .4 and .6

If I back it down to where the TPS voltage is .58, the car will not even run.

So what do I do now? Drill time?????????

Silverhawk_02TA

Yep. Just be conservative and drill the TB out a little bit at a time till you find the sweet spot. Don't forget you can use the screw for some fine tuning. I drilled my TB and used the set screw, and that worked better for me than just using one or the other alone.

Hayrab

I can't get mine to reset either, any ideas?

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

I gave up trying and put my drilled blade back in.

oztrack

I have 0.78V , idling at 625rpm with a 216-220 Cam and Ported Heads the IAC value is O in gear (SS3600 A4) and 60 or so out of gear idling at 950rpm - when hot.

Its timing is only about 10 degrees, there is a little bit of the cruise effect at around 1100rpm and back off decel surging between 2000 and 1000. The idle varies quite a bit.

Are these values for IAC OK - i think it would have 20-30 if it was idling at 700rpm - its just that the idle is on lowish side.