Drilling TB vs reseting TPS ?
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From: Fuquay-Varina, NC
Drilling TB vs reseting TPS ? Hey, what is the reason or reasons it's better to do the recal on the throttle body blade to TPS than to drill the blade? From what I've read I'm thinking the IAC count is lower??? I understand you're basically "fooling" the computer to think throttle is is closed when it's actually about 3% open to allow better idle. Thanks for any info as I'm ready to do one of them tomorrow.
I'm interested in what people think about this too. I just changed from a drilled blade to a raised idle screw & reset TPS when I installed my Yank. Both ways allow extra air in for cam surges. The drilled blade seems to cause the run-on issue when in gear for automatics, while the idle screw method does not. IAC counts are about 54 now....forget what they were before.
the only real diff between the two is the screw can be undone.
drilling cannot.
everything else is semantics.
if you never have to "go back" and you drill carefully and get it right.........
....it works exactly the same as the blade being a little more open and the TPS reset.
really, people make more of a issue of it then it really is.
drilling cannot.
everything else is semantics.
if you never have to "go back" and you drill carefully and get it right.........
....it works exactly the same as the blade being a little more open and the TPS reset.
really, people make more of a issue of it then it really is.
I haven't had luch with the set screw method yet. After doing it MANY times on other cars and posting it always works, it won't work on mine now no matter what I do.
Set it to ~2% and turn off the car, unplug the TPS sensor, turn on the car and it reads Zero, turn car off, plug it back in, turn car on and it reads ~2% again.
Set it to ~2% and turn off the car, unplug the TPS sensor, turn on the car and it reads Zero, turn car off, plug it back in, turn car on and it reads ~2% again.
I have done both. Drilled the blade til it was close and than did the final adjusting with the set screw.
The blade being open a lot exposes a lot of area and the adjustments are harder. Get the air close and than the set screw is just cracking the blade.
Perry
The blade being open a lot exposes a lot of area and the adjustments are harder. Get the air close and than the set screw is just cracking the blade.
Perry
Originally Posted by Perry Kincy
I have done both. Drilled the blade til it was close and than did the final adjusting with the set screw.
The blade being open a lot exposes a lot of area and the adjustments are harder. Get the air close and than the set screw is just cracking the blade.
Perry
The blade being open a lot exposes a lot of area and the adjustments are harder. Get the air close and than the set screw is just cracking the blade.
Perry
When you do it that way, do you still have to reset the TPS sensor?
Thanks
Craig
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Originally Posted by 1fastWS6
Perry,
When you do it that way, do you still have to reset the TPS sensor?
Thanks
Craig
When you do it that way, do you still have to reset the TPS sensor?
Thanks
Craig
when you change the set screw, you change the "signal" for where 0% throttle should be.
so yes, anytime that screw is moved, you should reset the TPS.
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Originally Posted by gillbot
I haven't had luch with the set screw method yet. After doing it MANY times on other cars and posting it always works, it won't work on mine now no matter what I do.
Set it to ~2% and turn off the car, unplug the TPS sensor, turn on the car and it reads Zero, turn car off, plug it back in, turn car on and it reads ~2% again.
Set it to ~2% and turn off the car, unplug the TPS sensor, turn on the car and it reads Zero, turn car off, plug it back in, turn car on and it reads ~2% again.
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 246
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I am trying to get a 408 with 90/90 intake setup and big cam running. If I adjust the set screw A LOT, it will run, but then the TPS voltage reads .85 which I know is way too much. I have read you want it to be between .4 and .6
If I back it down to where the TPS voltage is .58, the car will not even run.
So what do I do now? Drill time?????????
If I back it down to where the TPS voltage is .58, the car will not even run.
So what do I do now? Drill time?????????
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 576
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Originally Posted by SSkeet
I am trying to get a 408 with 90/90 intake setup and big cam running. If I adjust the set screw A LOT, it will run, but then the TPS voltage reads .85 which I know is way too much. I have read you want it to be between .4 and .6
If I back it down to where the TPS voltage is .58, the car will not even run.
So what do I do now? Drill time?????????
If I back it down to where the TPS voltage is .58, the car will not even run.
So what do I do now? Drill time?????????
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 55
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Originally Posted by gillbot
Any ideas on what I'm missing? It reads zero when I turn the car off, unplug it and read but as soon as I plug it back in and turn the key on it goes right back.
I can't get mine to reset either, any ideas?
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 123
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From: Sydney, Australia
I have 0.78V , idling at 625rpm with a 216-220 Cam and Ported Heads the IAC value is O in gear (SS3600 A4) and 60 or so out of gear idling at 950rpm - when hot.
Its timing is only about 10 degrees, there is a little bit of the cruise effect at around 1100rpm and back off decel surging between 2000 and 1000. The idle varies quite a bit.
Are these values for IAC OK - i think it would have 20-30 if it was idling at 700rpm - its just that the idle is on lowish side.
Its timing is only about 10 degrees, there is a little bit of the cruise effect at around 1100rpm and back off decel surging between 2000 and 1000. The idle varies quite a bit.
Are these values for IAC OK - i think it would have 20-30 if it was idling at 700rpm - its just that the idle is on lowish side.