JetVette

iTrader: (1)

Im trying to get my Innovate LC-1 wideband to work with my HP Tuners but theres so many wires and Im not sure which ones go where on the pigtail for HPT. Anyone have a diagram that shows what wires go where? It would help out a lot.

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

Red 12V supply - To a 12 fused ignition source
Blue Heater Ground - Chassis ground
White System Ground - To our EIO black wire
Yellow Analog out 1 **
Brown Analog out 2 **
Green Analog Ground - To our EIO black wire
Black Calibration wire - To a push button switch that is grounded

JetVette

iTrader: (1)

Does the ** mean that the yellow and brown arent used? What do I do with all the other wires? How many arent being used on the pigtail?

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

Tape them up... That is what I did.

mfrnka

Not exactly. I've just completed my LC-1 install and it works great.

THe "**" wires are the two analog outputs from the LC-1. As shipped the analog 1 is configured as a narrow band O2 and the analog 2 is configured as a wideband. Therefore, you want to connect the analog 2, LC-1 brown wire, to an EIO pigtails input. Most folks choose the pigtail white wire. This will then be read my HPT as input 1.

Feel free to ping me with questions.

JetVette

iTrader: (1)

any diagrams?

mfrnka

No diagram. Sorry.

The info above, in the first post, is exactly correct.

On the LC-1 side..

Red to switched fused 12v
Blue to chassis ground
White and Green to EIO pigtail black
Brown to EIO pigtail white
Yellow is unused (is programmed to output narrowband O2 as shipped)

On the EIO side...
Black to LC-1 green and white
White to LC-1 brown
the rest are unused

Only issue I had was on the EIO black and I've seen the quest in several threads. It provides a reference ground signal from the HPT interface box, but does not get "grounded" via an additional wire to chassis ground. It should only connect to the LC-1 green and white.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

you can take ALL grounds to the same chassis point

The EIO black can be gronded to the same chasis ground as the oher wires as long as you have a suficient size wire going to the main grounding point
I have helped several people hook theirs up this way and have had no problems

mfrnka

You *can* ground the EIO black, via another ground wire to chassis ground, if you want and it should work ok. It's only an issue if there's a significant difference between your HPT module ground and the chassis ground. I've had mine both ways with no problems.

HPT never fully explains this point. At least that I could find. After much research, I do not believe the EIO black was intended to have another chassis ground attached. From what I gathered, the EIO black wire provides a ground so the HPT module and LC-1 module share the same "reference" ground. Tieing in another chassis ground wire appears to defeat the purpose - you may as well just run the LC-1 green and whilte to chassis ground and skip the EIO black. Then again, I'm no electrical engineer.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

by conecting them all to a common ground you are making it all have the same ground potential...In the audio world(my profession) we practice this to its extreme..Its called star grounding...It keeps teh ground stable and ensures that everything has a proper ground..(it also tends to keep musicians from getting electricuted if there is an electrical problem..LOL)

mfrnka

I don't doubt your professional skills.

I not sure the pin matching the black EIO pigtails wire serves as an overall ground for the HPT module. I believe this comes from the underdash connector. If they're not tied together internally, you're grounding the LC-1 to chassis and not to the HPT module "reference" lvl as it should be.

To an extent, I think we may be trying to get the opposite of star grounding. If there is a difference between the HPT interface module ground and chassis ground, you want the LC-1 tied to the HPT module ground so there's no inconsistency in their readings.

Just trying explain my thinking and kick around some ideas. HPT documetation could use a lot of work in this area. But I bet it's all better in HPT 2.0.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

In a car everything is on a common ground system..everything attatches to teh sam eground by means of the chassis... by making the EIO a common ground with this you will get more consistent readings as compared to having it own grounding which may vary depending on many other factors

SUPRYZE

So by the sounds of that, I can replace one of my OE sensors with the LC1, and use the "narrow band" to the PCM and the "wide band" to my laptop?

joecar

Yes.

NX_CaGEdApE00

iTrader: (7)

steve.. you really need to get that wideband on that car and get the A/F ratios all in check.... you already went 117 mph.. thats awesome in 5800 D/A cam only..

get some better tires, a good 60ft and you will easily see deep 11's.... maybe 120+ mph

SilverSmoke

Any info on how one would do that? I really don't want to weld a new bung on just for a wideband only thing.

muncie21

iTrader: (14)

I'm interested in doing the same thing. Instead of welding an extra bung you should be able to just remove on of the O2's and replace with a wideband......right?

joecar

Yes.

Cut up an old NBO2 sensor or a header O2 extension cable and splice to the LC-1 red, blue, yellow, green wires; the yellow wire is NBO2 signal.

Then splice an extra green wire to the LC-1 green, and route it and the brown to your PC, FlashScan or whatever you use for logging; the brown wire is WBO2 signal.

Replace NBO2 sensor with WBO2 in exhaust pipe.

Remember to calibrate LC-1.

Spenser309

would the wb have to be calibrated for free air every time the car is started? Or if you were just using it for NB PCM work could it be just turned on?

joecar

Innovate website says to calibrate every 3 months for street use.