LS1 JAY

I am buying a used one this weekend for my '99 SS why do I keep reading about all these problems people are having with the HPP3's ? I sure don't need my computer to fry since we were going to install the fan settings when I go pick up the HPP3 which will be a 2 hr drive from home, should I be concerned now? I am starting to worry after reading all the bad experiences with the HPP3 people seem to be having. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

<small>[ May 02, 2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: LS1JAY ]</small>

Red Dog

I used the HPP3 for 2 years on my current 99 T/A, and over 1 year on my 96Z I used to have. I never had any trouble out of either one. I wouldn't really worry about it, just make sure that once you get started not to interrupt the cable. I think the main problem is when you lose your connection in the middle of an upload, then your PCM has to be recovered. Good Luck, Bill

LS1 JAY

Thanks!

gwj

Make sure your battery has a good charge. If not sure or battery is old, put a charger on it before you program it-but not WHILE you're programming it.

LS1 JAY

So from what you guys are saying the HPP3 is fairly safe as long as you don't interupt it while you are loading the tuning, all I will be loading is the fan setting, I will not be using the power tuning at all!

<small>[ May 03, 2002, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: LS1JAY ]</small>

C5XTASY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gwj:
<strong>Make sure your battery has a good charge. If not sure or battery is old, put a charger on it before you program it-but not WHILE you're programming it.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I jumper an extra battery I have to the battery in the car. That way you have nothing to worry about, for sure, while ypu're programming. The HPPIII works great.
Ed

LS1 JAY

I'll be doing the programming in about 2 hours, I'll let you know how it goes! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

LS1 JAY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LS1JAY:
<strong>I'll be doing the programming in about 2 hours, I'll let you know how it goes! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">All went well! I do however think a 160* thermostat will be inevitable. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> < Florida heat!

Red Dog

You didn't put a 160tstat in at the same time? If you set the fans to turn on early for the 160stat, and you leave the stock tstat in, your fans will be running all of the time. IMO, you should definitely get the 160 thermostat if you want the lower fan temps, especially living in Florida.

LS1 JAY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Red Dog:
<strong>You didn't put a 160tstat in at the same time? If you set the fans to turn on early for the 160stat, and you leave the stock tstat in, your fans will be running all of the time. IMO, you should definitely get the 160 thermostat if you want the lower fan temps, especially living in Florida.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have a 160* on order and hopefully it will be here this week. And yes, the fans do run all of the time but it has cooled the temps down a bit, how hard was it to install the thermostat? I have installed them before but not on a LS1 and everyone says you will need to be very careful as to not get any air left in the lines? how did you with your t-stat install?

Red Dog

Install isn't that difficult. One thing that's good is that the tstat seals to the block via a rubber O-ring, which in my opinion seals much better than the old paper tstat gaskets. Just follow the instructions for bleeding the coolant system. You'll know if you still have air in the lines, temps will start to spike up higher than normal. BTW, even with the 160 thermostat in, your 99 will still show the same reading on the temp gauge. The gauges in our 99's are more like idiot lights than anything else, they don't accurately depict your actual temp. As long as your car is in the normal operating range, the gauge remains near the middle, but if temps get hot it will rise.

LS1 JAY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Red Dog:
<strong>Install isn't that difficult. One thing that's good is that the tstat seals to the block via a rubber O-ring, which in my opinion seals much better than the old paper tstat gaskets. Just follow the instructions for bleeding the coolant system. You'll know if you still have air in the lines, temps will start to spike up higher than normal. BTW, even with the 160 thermostat in, your 99 will still show the same reading on the temp gauge. The gauges in our 99's are more like idiot lights than anything else, they don't accurately depict your actual temp. As long as your car is in the normal operating range, the gauge remains near the middle, but if temps get hot it will rise.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks! I don't think it will be to hard to do myself, but some of the thngs I have read seem to make a big deal out of it.

ToplessTexan

Thermostat is more messy than hard. I stubbornly refused to drain the system first, thinking if I were fast enough I wouldn't lose much. I am more of a klutz than I'd like to admit <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> but only needed about a 1/2 gallon to top off afterward. Very easy to bleed, instructions come with the stat (and with the programmer too IIRC.)