PCM Diagnostics & Tuning HP Tuners | Holley | Diablo

SES light in Rain

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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 08:06 AM
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Default SES light in Rain

So I drove to work just now in pooring down rain, witch I hate. I had to go through some standing water and got water all shot up the wheel wells making that woooshing sound and everything. Shortly after I got an SES light. I am wondering if this is do to getting a sensor or component wet maybe? Definatly didn't get water in the intake, but could the water be what's causing it? Anybody? Thanks.

Last edited by fa18007; Jan 23, 2006 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Bump. Just tried the car again after letting it "dry". Still have SES light. I noticed that one of the spark plug wires (where it plugs into the spark plug) kinda bobs in and out a little when the engine is running. None of the others do that. It is too hot to touch right now. Gonna let it cool. Any ideas?
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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Maybe the wire is loose, or you threw a misfire code??? Is that wire making a "ticking" sound? Even if it's not when it cools make sure it's on good and tight, could be something else got wet. The code will help nail it down.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 03:28 PM
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yeah its making a ticking sound. I cant tell if it is just the piston slap or not though. Im gonna try tightening it and if that doesnt work im going to get a scan at autozone.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 03:52 PM
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Even if it's loose and the noise stops get the code read/cleared anyway just to be sure. I was forced through deep water once cause of traffic, cutout was open and the car sounded like a motorboat slowly going through it, never threw a light though.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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Just got it scanned P1133. I had to take it to a chevy dealership. They said it was 02 sensors. But I have had the 02s programmed out with HPtuners and I have 02 sims (which I know I dont need). Could it be the front 02s? Does the code mean any of the 02s? Also, I have a spare one from when I took off the cats, are the front and rear plug interchange-able?

PS. Also the car feels like it idles a little rough.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 05:42 PM
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P1133 is insufficient switching bank 1, sensor 1 (front driver's side 02). Since it just came on after going through water I'd take a look at it, and the connection where it plugs in. I know the rears are interchangeable side to side, probably the same plugs for the front too, but the length of the harness might be different, especially w/LT's - don't know for sure. Did they clear it for you and the light came on again? I was hoping it was just an intermitent thing cause of the water. Someone who knows for sure on the interchangeabailtity front to back will chime in. You need to get it corrected though, you need good front 02's.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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Pull the connectors for both front O2 sensors,
blow out connector/plug with compressed air to blow out water.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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I had the same problem a couple of years ago after going thru a down pour and the pass. O2 sensor went bad. I had to replace it.

Bill
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 08:38 PM
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Well I just removed and cleaned both 02 sensors, plugged them back in and let it run for 3 mins. Still have SES light. Than I took my spare one from my old rears and put it in the driver side and let it run, still have SES light. Im gonna let it cool down now and then try the spare on the passanger side. if that dont work im gonna have to get 2 new ones i guess. How much are these things?
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 08:59 PM
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nope, the spare didnt work on the other side either. So maybe both need to be replaced? It doesnt seem likely they would both take a dive at the same time.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fa18007
Well I just removed and cleaned both 02 sensors, plugged them back in and let it run for 3 mins. Still have SES light. Than I took my spare one from my old rears and put it in the driver side and let it run, still have SES light. Im gonna let it cool down now and then try the spare on the passanger side. if that dont work im gonna have to get 2 new ones i guess. How much are these things?

Unless you CLEAR the light it wont go out untill you have gone through 3 drive cycles(could take 100 plus miles) AFTER the problem has been rectified, Kens easy solution for your problem(cause most likely its a phantom code) disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, that should clear the light and reset on the onboard monitors. drive the car,IF the MIL comes back on there IS probably an underling problem.(PS what did you use to "clean the sensors? If it was brake parts cleaner,etc. yeah they are probably phucked now ) My shop sees alot of these when there has been a REALLY big downpour and alot of the time we clear the code/blow out the connections and the cars are good to go. Good Luck.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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I used some electrical conection cleaner that evaporates really fast and some compressed air. If I disconnect my battery or PCM to reset the light will that erase my HP tuners tune?
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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No Hptuners is now flashed to the pcm and wont be removed until its flashed again. It will just reset its short term memory, spark maps, fuel trims etc.

Chris
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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Well I pulled the PCM BATT fuse for 10 mins and that did the trick. I am still running the original 02s that I cleaned off. Im gonna drive it around tomorrow and if the light comes one im gonna go to the dealership to get some new 02s. I need it to drive 700 miles this weekend, so i gotta have it runnin right. Thanks to everyone here for your help. You guys definatly helped me out and help confirm that LS1tech is my best mod! Thanks everyone!!!
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by fa18007
Well I pulled the PCM BATT fuse for 10 mins and that did the trick. I am still running the original 02s that I cleaned off. Im gonna drive it around tomorrow and if the light comes one im gonna go to the dealership to get some new 02s. I need it to drive 700 miles this weekend, so i gotta have it runnin right. Thanks to everyone here for your help. You guys definatly helped me out and help confirm that LS1tech is my best mod! Thanks everyone!!!
Go to Advance Auto and get the Bosch 13111 O2's for about $75 each with a year warranty. They also have the longer cables so you can get rid of your extenders if you have them.

Bill
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 05:17 PM
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I just went to the dealership and got 2 new 02s cause the light came back on after driving it around. The thing is all they had in stock was 1 front one and 1 rear one. I bought them both. I dont think it matters, just one has a little longer cable than the other, right? THe 02s shouldn't be position specific themselves because they really have no idea where they are being plugged into. The dealership didn't know if they can be moved around either. Any help?
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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F*&^! I wish I had read this sooner. I paid out the *** for those sensors. $130 a piece. Came to $283.11 with tax!

Originally Posted by Bill Bowling
Go to Advance Auto and get the Bosch 13111 O2's for about $75 each with a year warranty. They also have the longer cables so you can get rid of your extenders if you have them.

Bill
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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Well I installed my $283 dollar 02 sensors , cleared the code, and drove the car in the same loop I did yesterday. Light did not come on. I'm driving 350 miles to gainesville this weekend to see the g/f, so we'll see if it comes back.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 02:03 PM
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Youre okay. Infact if it makes you feel any better, stock o2's seem to switch the fastest, even though they dont have the higher wattage heater or longer wire length of the bosch 13111's. Since you already bought and installed those sensors, you should do fine to keep them. When they start acting up again (every 10K or so for me) change out to the 13111's and save some coin.
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