squirrels

Just trying to poll the field on this one.

I have SLP longtubes with RT cats, and I had a few problems last winter with throwing a P0155 every now and then. I'd reset it and it'd go away for a little while, then come back.

Anyway, we were having some nice weather and the car was showing no problems, but then this morning it was both freezing cold and wet, and I managed to throw both P0135 and P0155. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I'm just wondering who else gets these codes, how often, and what kind of headers/cats you're running. I've heard they happen more often with SLPs, plus I've got some other issues with them and I'm wondering if getting a longtube with the O2s a little closer to the engine might fix it.

Thanks
-Mark

SPEED DOG

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by squirrels:
<strong> Just trying to poll the field on this one.

I have SLP longtubes with RT cats, and I had a few problems last winter with throwing a P0155 every now and then. I'd reset it and it'd go away for a little while, then come back.

Anyway, we were having some nice weather and the car was showing no problems, but then this morning it was both freezing cold and wet, and I managed to throw both P0135 and P0155. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I'm just wondering who else gets these codes, how often, and what kind of headers/cats you're running. I've heard they happen more often with SLPs, plus I've got some other issues with them and I'm wondering if getting a longtube with the O2s a little closer to the engine might fix it.

Thanks
-Mark </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Switching codes are fairly common with all the Long Tubes. I've got LGM longtubes and was plagued with these plus 1134 and 1154 codes. Lou Gigliotti has come up with a solution: use the rear O2 sensors in the FRONT position. They have a hotter filament and this fixes the problem. You'll need to use a wire harness adaptor, which you can get from LGM, as the rear connectors are different from the front. While this solution was developed by Lou for his headers, I don't see why it wouldn't work for any long tube setup with the same problem.

I've just done this and it indeed solved all my code problems. In addition, for whatever reason, the car seems to run better.

Hope this helps.

<small>[ March 31, 2003, 07:32 AM: Message edited by: SPEED DOG ]</small>

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I'm getting the insufficient switching codes too with my TTS headers. Heard they are usually from exhaust leaks either before or within a foot or 2 after the front O2 sensors.

I was under the impression the front and rear O2s were the same sensor? If you're right however, I'll switch them up if it gets rid of the switching codes. Probably going to ditch the rears for sims anyways, as I keep getting a cat inefficiency code for one side every so often.

BB

iTrader: (7)

I have been plagued by these codes since I removed the cats. I have SLP LTs and I never had a problem until I removed the cats.

It is suppose to be either from an exhaust leak, bad sensor, or bad wires. I have swapped out the sensors severals times. I and an exhaust shop checked for leaks and there are none to be found. I assume the wiring is OK - it appears so. I mainly get the code for bank 1.

I am hoping the warm weather takes care of it. I think the cats could be the problem but I am not wanting to put them back on.

BTW, the front and rear sensors are the same and have the same connectors. What is different is the length of the wiring.

SPEED DOG

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by FlamnTA:
<strong> I have been plagued by these codes since I removed the cats. I have SLP LTs and I never had a problem until I removed the cats.

It is suppose to be either from an exhaust leak, bad sensor, or bad wires. I have swapped out the sensors severals times. I and an exhaust shop checked for leaks and there are none to be found. I assume the wiring is OK - it appears so. I mainly get the code for bank 1.

I am hoping the warm weather takes care of it. I think the cats could be the problem but I am not wanting to put them back on.

BTW, the front and rear sensors are the same and have the same connectors. What is different is the length of the wiring. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No they're not: at least not on the 'Vette.

While "conventional wisdom" talks about exhaust leaks and so forth, with many long tube setups these codes occur without those problems. This issue has intermittantly cropped up for the past several years. Some folks get them, others don't.

I just wanted to alert folks to a solution that clearly works (assuming the other problems have been ruled out).

<small>[ April 02, 2003, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: SPEED DOG ]</small>

MYBLKSS

iTrader: (1)

I have been having the same problem for over a year now with my slp LT's. It only happens when the car is cold otherwise it is fine. I don't think its that big of a deal but if theres a solution for it I would do it in a second, if not I guess I will just keep clearing the codes.

DaddySS

I have a theory that the coating on the headers (or something) damages the sensors. I was throwing codes every time I drove it, had the dealer replace all 4 and now no codes?

<small>[ April 03, 2003, 03:58 AM: Message edited by: DaddySS ]</small>

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

Someone once said if you put anti-sieze on the threads, when it heats up it can find its way into and damage the sensor.

silverbullittSS

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SPEED DOG:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by squirrels:
<strong> Just trying to poll the field on this one.

I have SLP longtubes with RT cats, and I had a few problems last winter with throwing a P0155 every now and then. I'd reset it and it'd go away for a little while, then come back.

Anyway, we were having some nice weather and the car was showing no problems, but then this morning it was both freezing cold and wet, and I managed to throw both P0135 and P0155. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I'm just wondering who else gets these codes, how often, and what kind of headers/cats you're running. I've heard they happen more often with SLPs, plus I've got some other issues with them and I'm wondering if getting a longtube with the O2s a little closer to the engine might fix it.

Thanks
-Mark </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Switching codes are fairly common with all the Long Tubes. I've got LGM longtubes and was plagued with these plus 1134 and 1154 codes. Lou Gigliotti has come up with a solution: use the rear O2 sensors in the FRONT position. They have a hotter filament and this fixes the problem. You'll need to use a wire harness adaptor, which you can get from LGM, as the rear connectors are different from the front. While this solution was developed by Lou for his headers, I don't see why it wouldn't work for any long tube setup with the same problem.

I've just done this and it indeed solved all my code problems. In addition, for whatever reason, the car seems to run better.

Hope this helps. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">so will these work on a 98 camaro ss if so what are the part numbers?

silverbullittSS

iTrader: (1)

TTT

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

All fbody 02 sensors are the same connector. We have 40-50 of them sitting here at the shop and all are the same.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by GrannySShifting:
<strong> All fbody 02 sensors are the same connector. We have 40-50 of them sitting here at the shop and all are the same. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep, this is correct. There is NO difference in sensor from front to rear on an F-body. Just different wire lenghts. Connectors are the same.

Vettes must be different then...

SPEED DOG

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by RPM WS6:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by GrannySShifting:
<strong> All fbody 02 sensors are the same connector. We have 40-50 of them sitting here at the shop and all are the same. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep, this is correct. There is NO difference in sensor from front to rear on an F-body. Just different wire lenghts. Connectors are the same.

Vettes must be different then... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the info. The 'vettes ARE different, and require an adaptor, which allows one to use the rear O2's in front and which fixes the switching codes.

Lou might have some thoughts about how to solve this on F body cars; has anyone called him about this?

CMNTMXR57

I realize we are talking about long tube aftermarket headers here. However, here is GM's troubleshooting and repair procedures for this code. Perhaps one could adapt GM's procedure to come up with a fix.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">DTC P0135 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1

Circuit Description

The PCM supplies a bias voltage (approximately 450 mV) on the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) signal high and low circuits. When you turn the ignition to the ON position, battery voltage is supplied to the HO2S heater. As the heater reaches the operating temperature, the HO2S voltage responds by changing from a bias voltage range to the normal operation. Typically, as the HO2S reaches the operating temperature, the HO2S voltage goes from a bias voltage to a voltage below 300 mV. Depending on the exhaust gas content, it is possible for the HO2S voltage to go above 450 mV.

The PCM runs the heater test only on a cold start (depends on the cumulative air flow) and only once an ignition cycle. When you start the engine the PCM monitors the HO2S voltage. When the HO2S voltage goes above or below the bias range threshold, the PCM determines how much time it took. If the PCM detects that the process took too much time for the HO2S to enter into normal operating range, a DTC sets. The time the process takes the HO2S to reach operating temperature is based on the amount of air that flows into the engine.

Conditions for Running the DTC

- DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0112, P0113, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0125, P0335, P0336, P0351-P0358, P1258 not set.
- The intake air temperature and the engine coolant temperature are less than 50°C (122°F) and are within 8°C (14.5°F) of each other at engine start-up.
- The ignition voltage is between 10.0 volts and 16.0 volts.
- The AIR, EGR, and the Catalyst diagnostics are not active.
- The engine air flow is less than 23 g/s.
- The TP sensor angle is less than 20%.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

The HO2S voltage remains between 300 mV and 700 mV for a predetermined amount of time (depends on engine coolant temperature and air flow).

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

- The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
- The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

- The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
- A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
- A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
- Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.

Diagnostic Aids

Important
- Remove any debris from the PCM connector surfaces before servicing the PCM. Inspect the PCM connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the PCM. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM.

- For any test that requires probing the PCM or component harness connectors, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A . Using this kit prevents any damage to the harness connector terminals.

- Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.

- The heater diagnostic will only run on a cold start and run once per ignition cycle.

- An oxygen supply inside the HO2S is necessary for proper operation. The HO2S wires provides the supply of oxygen. Inspect the HO2S wires and connections for breaks or contamination. Refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

- For an intermittent condition, refer to Symptoms .

Test Description

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

2) Allow the engine to cool before performing this test. If the sensor is at the operating temperature the HO2S voltage will stay high or low. If the HO2S voltage stays between 300-700 mV indicates the HO2S heater is inoperative. For any test that requires probing the PCM or a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A . Using this kit prevents damage to the harness connector terminals.

3) If more than one HO2S DTC is set, this is a good indication that the HO2S fuse is open. Test all the related circuits going to all the heated oxygen sensors for a short to ground. If all of the wiring is OK, it may be necessary to disconnect each HO2S one at a time to locate a shorted sensor.

4) This step verifies whether a B+ supply is available at the sensor.

5) This step verifies whether a ground is available at the sensor.

6) This step tests whether the HO2S heater element is internally open.

7) Inspect the ignition feed circuits at the Underhood Electrical Center for poor connections.

8) Test the ground circuits for an open if more then one heater DTC sets.

Step 1

Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check?
--
Yes: Go to Step 2
No: Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

Step 2

Important
Allow the engine to cool for about one half hour before proceeding with this table.

1) Turn OFF the ignition.
2) Install the scan tool.
3) Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF.
4) Monitor the HO2S voltage display on the Engine 1 Data List of the scan tool.

Does the HO2S voltage go from a bias voltage to above or below the specified range?

Specified Range = 300-700 mV
--
Yes: Go to Diagnostic Aids
No: Go to Step 3

Step 3

Inspect the HO2S fuse for an open.

Is the HO2S fuse open?
--
Yes: Go to Step 11
No: Go to Step 4

Step 4

1) Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2) Disconnect the HO2S electrical connector.
3) Probe the ignition feed circuit at the HO2S electrical connector (PCM side) using the test lamp J 34142-B connected to ground (a known good ground. Do not use the HO2S heater ground or the HO2S low circuits).

Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Yes: Go to Step 5
No: Go to Step 7

Step 5

Connect the test lamp J 34142-B between the HO2S ignition feed and the HO2S heater ground.

Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Yes: Go to Step 6
No: Go to Step 8

Step 6

Measure the resistance between the HO2S ignition feed and the HO2S heater ground at the HO2S pigtail using a DMM J 39200 .

Is the HO2S resistance within the specified range?

Specified Range = 3.5-14.0ohms
--
Yes: Go to Step 9
No: Go to Step 10

Step 7

Repair the open in the HO2S ignition feed circuit to the HO2S. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the action complete?
--
Yes: Go to Step 12
--

Step 8

Repair the open in the HO2S heater ground circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the action complete?
--
Yes: Go to Step 12
--

Step 9

1) Inspect for a poor connection at the HO2S harness terminals. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis in Wiring Systems.
2) If you find a poor connection, replace the terminals. Refer to Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Yes: Go to Step 12
No: Go to Step 10

Step 10

Replace the HO2S. Refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Replacement - Bank 1 .

Is the action complete?
--
Yes: Go to Step 12
--

Step 11

1) Locate and repair the short to ground in the HO2S ignition feed circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
2) Replace the faulty fuse.

Is the action complete?
--
Yes: Go to Step 12
--

Step 12

1) Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Clear DTC Information option using the scan tool.
2) Idle the engine at the normal operating temperature.
3) Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
4) Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text, if applicable.

Does the scan tool indicate that this test ran and passed?
--
Yes: Go to Step 13
No: Go to Step 2

Step 13

Select the Capture Info option and the Review Info option using the scan tool.

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
--
Yes: Go to the applicable DTC table
No: System OK</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">P0155 is the same except for B2S1

johnster

iTrader: (27)

I have jet hot long tubes and I just started getting the P0135.Whats the best way to fix it.