When people ask about air lid's and the differences between them, they're told a lid, is a lid, is a lid. What about O2 sensors.What makes an O2 from a minivan different from one for an F-Body?? I know that the wire lengths and connectors are different, but (as an example) if you took one intended for a minivan, changed the connector accordingly, then screwed it into the bung and plugged it up....how would you car run?? Would the computer "know" that it isn't the right O2, or would your car act and run normally??

 

splicing O2 sensors is hit or miss... there was a post a while back ... something about one of the wires being used for reference oxygen or something

People that cut their O2 sensors and add wire often have more problems than it's worth...

An O2 sensor isn't something that needs to be replaced very often... If you want trouble free (usually) then just buy the correct O2

As for what makes the sensors different... not sure... I've never compared O2s from different applications... probably the same sensor just different harness but dunno for sure

 

There would be no splicing involved. If you get the proper tool you can "release" the wires from the new connecters and then plug them back into your old connecter. You just need to make sure that you plug them in to the proper receptacle. I'm just not sure how O2's are different between cars and/or manufacturers. Do all O2's send the same voltage readings, or are they different between GM, Ford and Chrysler??

 

Definition of a lambda sensor :
A Lambda sensor is a device which measures the amount of the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. This is the reason why it is also referred to as an Oxygen or O2 Sensor.

The internal combustion engine typically burns hydrocarbons CxHy, where the longest chains are in the octane range of C8H18. With ideal combustion, all CxHx is being oxidized (burned) into carbon-dioxide CO2 and water H2O.

The chemical reaction looks like the following : CxHy + (x+y/4)O2 ==> xCO2 + (y/2)H2O

Since fuel is a combination out of different hydrocarbons, we define the air to fuel ratio in terms of it's mass (weight of molecules). The stoichiometric ratio for gasoline is 1 lb gasoline and 14.7 lb of air (containing 21 % of Oxygen). The volume ratio at 1 bar air-pressure would be about 4500 liter air for 1 lb of fuel.


The air / fuel constant for the soichiometric
mass ratio is 1 and defined with this equation.
lean = lambda > 1 and rich = lambda < 1

If you take the results of the divisions M(air) / M(fuel), the mass units will cancel out of the equation and ratios are the result. If you take both ratios and compare them you get the lambda value, which is not fuel specific anymore as a result.

Note : Stoichiometric ratio is the exact amount of chemicals to produce a theoretically ideal chemical reaction.

Lambda sensor use and care :
Install the sensor in a minimum of 10 deg upward position to avoid the trapping of condensation in it. It should be placed close to the engine to improve reaction speed for close loop control applications, but after a turbo, since the change in exhaust gas pressure will alter the reading. Also place it before any catalytic converter. Make sure it does not exceed the internal thermal limits, to be detected with the AFM-1 windows application.

Any in the exhaust stream installed sensor should be connected and have the sensor heater operated while the engine is running. The heater on with a cell temperature of 750 degC will self clean the sensor and avoids the deposition of carbon deposits or like.

Do not run the engine with any leaded fuel since the introduction of heavy metal-based chemicals will significantly shorten it's lifetime.

Readings can be altered by O2 being sucked back into the tail end of a straight through single cylinder exhaust pipe when placed near the end.
A source of O2 introduced by a leaky exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe or O2 being pumped into the exhaust stream before the sensor will lead to altered readings as well.
Misfiring will cause a similar effect due to the introduction of excess O2 into the exhaust stream

 

I thought you were the guy at the Drive thru window at McDonalds.

 

So you're saying that they are all the same and it should work??

 

Depends also on the switch voltage.
I understand they should all switch at 450mv from rich to lean.
Anyway this is configurable in the PCM.

Usual LS1 has 4 wires
12V Power and GRND
1V Signal and Signal GRND (or maybe 5V but only really uses 1V!?)

Im pretty sure you can use other brands as long as they are same spec.

 

Thanks ringram!! One more question. If you have an O2 of that's not specifically for your vehicle, (the ones that I have really are for a minivan ) is there a way to determine which wire is which without schematics??? The wires on the O2's for my Z are lettered ABCD and I've seen the the schematics for them posted on here before. That's not a problem. However....the ones for the minivan are numbered 1234 and it would be too easy to assume that A=1, B=2, etc. Is there a way too check with a digital voltmeter/ohmmeter and determine which wire is which?? If I can make this work, I'll be saving a few bucks.

 

You will need the schematic I think if you are looking just at the O2 sensor.
The 12V power is for the heater.
If you can check the minivan connector you can certainly hook up to it with a multimeter.
You should see the grounds and 12v heater anyway, plus probably the 5V signal from the PCM and go from there. It took me a while to figure out the PCM ground, it had a low voltage over it, was confusing, I got it wired up wrong at the time. I basically wired up the Bosch WB as a NB Sim.
You might be able to figure out the brand of the minivan O2 and lookup the suppliers website for info.
Sorry I cant help more.

 

Just got off the NGK website and popped back over here to LS1Tech to see if I got a response yet, and saw that the response was to go to the website. Anyway, it was on the website. Now to see if it will work. Thanks for your help!!