Basically stock LS1 pinging?
Basically stock LS1 pinging? My dad has a 2000 WS6, with just a lid, pulley, ported tb, and y-pipe. It has audible pinging around 90mph in 3rd gear, and then the power drops off a little bit. It has no tune or anything, and when it was dyno'd ~3+ years ago, the a/f was 12.0, and you could see on the graph where the knock retard kicked in. Is it normal for a stock ls1 to ping, or is there something to look for? And it doesn't have any oil consumption problems or anything, and it only has 35K on it...
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21
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I had a 2000 Z28 (LS1 automatic 3.23) that pinged almost from day one, right around 5000-5500 rpm. It pinged more with an aftermarket air lid than it did with the stock air box. Some people say oil coming through the PCV system can cause this, some people install catch cans on that line to block the oil. Also, the factory timing on the 2000 cars was pretty aggressive I think, they backed off the timing for later models.
I "fixed" my pinging using a MAF Translator, set to 4% rich. Seemed to add just enough fuel to quench it. But making it richer tends to reduce your power a little, and if you are already at 12.0 that should be rich enough.
Good luck, I never found a real solution, except the MAF Translator worked as kind of a band-aid fix.
I "fixed" my pinging using a MAF Translator, set to 4% rich. Seemed to add just enough fuel to quench it. But making it richer tends to reduce your power a little, and if you are already at 12.0 that should be rich enough.
Good luck, I never found a real solution, except the MAF Translator worked as kind of a band-aid fix.
2000 was the "leanest" year, it seems. Small injectors, but
larger "EGR cam", better exhaust, etc. If the AFR still reads
good (and 12.0:1 is still on the chubby side) then take out
as much timing as you need to, to get it to shut up. If that
makes it less than low 20s then suspect some other issue
(getting old enough that fuel filter, injector fouling, etc. can
not be ruled out except by trial).
Don't get hung up on wanting a certain amount of advance.
The advance is the "icing on the cake", it's whatever the
motor needs to properly position the pressure pulse to best
effect. Every change in cylinder charge, engine temperature,
exhaust backpressure etc. will push it around (usually, less
the better you breathe).
Speaking of temperature, a lean and aggressively sparked
motor doesn't need the lame, hot stock fan settings.
Torque management pulls timing and is unlikely to make ping.
larger "EGR cam", better exhaust, etc. If the AFR still reads
good (and 12.0:1 is still on the chubby side) then take out
as much timing as you need to, to get it to shut up. If that
makes it less than low 20s then suspect some other issue
(getting old enough that fuel filter, injector fouling, etc. can
not be ruled out except by trial).
Don't get hung up on wanting a certain amount of advance.
The advance is the "icing on the cake", it's whatever the
motor needs to properly position the pressure pulse to best
effect. Every change in cylinder charge, engine temperature,
exhaust backpressure etc. will push it around (usually, less
the better you breathe).
Speaking of temperature, a lean and aggressively sparked
motor doesn't need the lame, hot stock fan settings.
Torque management pulls timing and is unlikely to make ping.
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It's done it since the day he bought it back in 01 with 9k on it with it being stock. He put in TR55's too, but that didn't do anything. I guess it just needs a dyno tune. A couple years ago with just a lid and y-pipe it ran a 13.5@107.5 on my 1st and only pass in it with a slipping clutch in the middle of summer in south florida heat, so I don't think it's down on power. It dyno'd 318.8rwhp too with just a lid. You can visibly see a 10hp drop off in the graph, I'm guessing thats knock retard...
http://www.geocities.com/spddmn24/20...esults_SAE.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/spddmn24/20...esults_SAE.jpg
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
check the rear knock sensor for corrosion. GM has a bulleting about water getting in there and corroding the knock sensor terminals. Also you might get a code p0332. Also to use rtv to put a bead around the rubber that covers the knock sensor on the valley. Like a 3/8 bead leaving the rear open a little bit dont put a solid bead all the way around see if that helps.
