PCM Diagnostics & Tuning HP Tuners | Holley | Diablo
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Anyone figured out ground offsets with LC-1?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-27-2006, 04:53 PM
  #1  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Anyone figured out ground offsets with LC-1?

I am running HPtuners EIO and LC-1. My AFR from the LC-1 is through the roof all the time. If I start logging with the 12V source to LC-1 disconnected the RAW voltage read by Hptuners is 0.757V. When I plug in the 12V source it goes to a steady 2.08 V during LC-1 warmup (light blinking), then when the LC-1 is warmed up (light steady) the LC-1 reads 3.9-4.9 range during a 10 minute idle log.

How do I determine what ground offset I have so I can subtract that from the read in voltage and create a custom PID in hptuners to get an accurate reading? What can I use to calibrate the LC-1?

Thanks
Old 03-27-2006, 06:12 PM
  #2  
Doc
FormerVendor
iTrader: (9)
 
Doc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

How do you have this wired up? Do you have the system and analog grounds together and the heater ground by it'self? What 12v source are you using? The fuse box? Cig lighter? Where physically are you grounding the sys/ ana and heater grnds?
Old 03-27-2006, 06:24 PM
  #3  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Doc
How do you have this wired up? Do you have the system and analog grounds together and the heater ground by it'self? What 12v source are you using? The fuse box? Cig lighter? Where physically are you grounding the sys/ ana and heater grnds?
Right now I am using a bread board (LOL) to try and figure this out. I currently do have ALL the grounds including the heater ground hooked up to the EIO ground. I will run out and try hooking up the heater ground to a seperate chassis ground right now but I swear I have already tried it. I am using a 12V source directly from the auxilary power location on the driver side by the fuse boxes. Physically I am currently grounding everything to the EIO ground ...BUT I do have a ground already prepared that is connected to the smaller black cable that comes off of the battery negative. Is this a bad or good location?

Any ideas? Anything look fishy?

THanks
Old 03-27-2006, 06:33 PM
  #4  
7 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
 
Phil99vette's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Port Tobacco, MD
Posts: 8,758
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Here's what I did....
Started car up and.....once it was warm with the wideband running....
Turned on the Lm1 logger and the HPT logger
Commanded A/F 13.5 60 seconds, 14.5 60 seconds, 15.5 60 seconds
Logged LM1 and HPT
Exported log and averaged 0 - 60; 61 - 120; 121 - 180 seconds
LM1 will average data @ 13.x 14.x and 15.x
Initally LM1 was .34-.38 lower than HPT at all 3 A/F levels
Corrected the voltage -.25

Did the same test and....
2nd round LM1 was .08-.10 lower than HPT actual LM1 -13.5 HPT 13.6 ; LM1 14.5 HPT 14.6
Corrected the voltage -.09

Did the same test and all 3 areas were within .01.
Old 03-27-2006, 06:34 PM
  #5  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (50)
 
oange ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

green/white to EIO ground
heater ground to chassis ground
cal wire to chassis ground
Old 03-27-2006, 06:35 PM
  #6  
7 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
 
Phil99vette's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Port Tobacco, MD
Posts: 8,758
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

One thing I am not sure I like or not about the LC1 is there is nothing to compare it to. With the LM1 you have the display which will flatline @ calibration and while cruising when you know A/F should be 14.7 the Wideband will read exactly 14.7+-.5.
Phil
Old 03-27-2006, 06:52 PM
  #7  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by oange ss
green/white to EIO ground
heater ground to chassis ground
cal wire to chassis ground
Tried moving my cal wire to chassis ground like your doing and all this did was make the light blink fast while after it was done warming up and then it went solid. Raw voltage once it was a steady light was a steady 4.917 V.

Anyone want to run out and see what their raw voltage is without the car running once the LC-1 is warmed up and the light is steady?

NOTE: I am reading these values through the EIO and hptuners. My serial hookup to the LC-1 is buried underneathy my PCM and I cant get at it unless I remove a whole bunch of crap that I really dont want to do!

Last edited by 99whitews6; 03-27-2006 at 07:06 PM.
Old 03-27-2006, 07:15 PM
  #8  
Doc
FormerVendor
iTrader: (9)
 
Doc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The heater ground has to be seprate from the analog / system ground. The aux battery post is hot all the time. You don't want your sensor on all the time? If you pull the fuse connector that is on the drivers side dash/door you should find a suitable aux connector that will be set to turn on only with the ignition. If you get the mulitiple flashes after the cal sequence- is the HP tuners plugged into the vpw port?

As far as not having a display for the LC-1 I guess you mean when you don't have the laptop in the car? The LC-1 has two analog outputs that if you wanted to put in a cheap indicator I suppose you could. Doesn't Hptuners Data Log? What is the point of having two dataloggers in the vehicle? (HP + LM1?)
I'm confused.
Old 03-27-2006, 07:22 PM
  #9  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Doc
The heater ground has to be seprate from the analog / system ground. The aux battery post is hot all the time. You don't want your sensor on all the time? If you pull the fuse connector that is on the drivers side dash/door you should find a suitable aux connector that will be set to turn on only with the ignition. If you get the mulitiple flashes after the cal sequence- is the HP tuners plugged into the vpw port?

As far as not having a display for the LC-1 I guess you mean when you don't have the laptop in the car? The LC-1 has two analog outputs that if you wanted to put in a cheap indicator I suppose you could. Doesn't Hptuners Data Log? What is the point of having two dataloggers in the vehicle? (HP + LM1?)
I'm confused.
Right now I have moved the heater ground to the chassis ground. The system/analog ground is connected to the EIO ground. I have a switch that I use to turn the power on/off so it is not draining all the time.

VPW port? Not sure what that is!
Old 03-27-2006, 07:24 PM
  #10  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (50)
 
oange ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 99whitews6
Tried moving my cal wire to chassis ground like your doing and all this did was make the light blink fast while after it was done warming up and then it went solid. Raw voltage once it was a steady light was a steady 4.917 V.

Anyone want to run out and see what their raw voltage is without the car running once the LC-1 is warmed up and the light is steady?

cal wire isnt suppose to be wired directly to ground, put a momentary switch between ground and the wire, use it to do free air cal...4.97v would be around 22 AFR which is what it's suppose to read in free air or air absent of exhaust....redo cal wire and you should be good to go
Old 03-27-2006, 07:25 PM
  #11  
Doc
FormerVendor
iTrader: (9)
 
Doc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The port under the dash that you can connect a scan tool, HpTuners, etc to communicate with the PCM.
Old 03-27-2006, 07:27 PM
  #12  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (50)
 
oange ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Phil99vette
One thing I am not sure I like or not about the LC1 is there is nothing to compare it to. With the LM1 you have the display which will flatline @ calibration and while cruising when you know A/F should be 14.7 the Wideband will read exactly 14.7+-.5.
Phil
compare data logger readings to Logworks readings.....Logworks reads direct sensor output
Old 03-27-2006, 07:27 PM
  #13  
Doc
FormerVendor
iTrader: (9)
 
Doc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 1,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The reason why it is necessary to have the EIO connected to it is it will share the same ground with the PCM thru that connector. When I first set up my LC-1 I though ok I will set up one thing at time and got the flashing light thing and so I hooked up the scanner to the vpw connector and bingo it worked.
Old 03-27-2006, 07:44 PM
  #14  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by oange ss
cal wire isnt suppose to be wired directly to ground, put a momentary switch between ground and the wire, use it to do free air cal...4.97v would be around 22 AFR which is what it's suppose to read in free air or air absent of exhaust....redo cal wire and you should be good to go
Confused. I thought you were supposed to hook it up to ground. And IF you want you can put a switch for cal and a LED in parallel. So it would still always be connected to ground, right?

NOTE: Right now my cal wire goes through an LED and directly to ground is this my issue? I dont have any momentary switches( or any switches for that matter) at the present time.
Old 03-27-2006, 07:51 PM
  #15  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (50)
 
oange ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 99whitews6
Confused. I thought you were supposed to hook it up to ground. And IF you want you can put a switch for cal and a LED in parallel. So it would still always be connected to ground, right?

NOTE: Right now my cal wire goes through an LED and directly to ground is this my issue? I dont have any momentary switches( or any switches for that matter) at the present time.
cal wire is only grounded for free air cal process,hench the switch(which is optional) but you have to touch the wire to ground without it instead of pushing a button...yes that is your problem....re-accomplish first time use cal after sorting the wiring out
Old 03-27-2006, 08:04 PM
  #16  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

So if I dont have a switch, then the cal wire just hangs there not attached to anything?

Where the hell does the LED go then?

Funny thing is I had this all working just fine last summer. LOL Now I am just confused.
Old 03-27-2006, 08:09 PM
  #17  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (50)
 
oange ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

yes.....parallel with cal wire
Old 03-27-2006, 08:13 PM
  #18  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (50)
 
oange ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Old 03-27-2006, 08:14 PM
  #19  
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
99whitews6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

So the calibration wire is always connected to the ground via the LED. Thats how I have it I just dont have the switch. So all I have is the Cal wire going right through the LED to the ground.
Old 03-27-2006, 08:55 PM
  #20  
7 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
 
Phil99vette's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Port Tobacco, MD
Posts: 8,758
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Doc
As far as not having a display for the LC-1 I guess you mean when you don't have the laptop in the car? The LC-1 has two analog outputs that if you wanted to put in a cheap indicator I suppose you could. Doesn't Hptuners Data Log? What is the point of having two dataloggers in the vehicle? (HP + LM1?)
I'm confused.
If I didn't have the display on the LM1, I probably would have never known my setup was not correct. One day I was logging A/F at idle and the HPT showed the A/F at a nice 14.7 while the LM1 displayed 14.3.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:48 PM.