Speed density tune????
07-08-2006, 11:25 AM
#41
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so the only thing the stock ecm needs is timing the rest is control by the maf pro correct? i mean is 400 bucks thats 50 bucks less then wat they charge me for a speed des complete tune
07-08-2006, 09:32 PM
#47
Originally Posted by MiaSSmaro98
the hp software for the coversion to SD on a 98 ecm thats it
And your still only good to 14.7 psi.......
what i posted u have a 3 bar......
Alot of us started before HP Tuners had a SD tune for 98's. They had posted before that they would NEVER do a SD tune for 98's. So alot of us said screw them.......
So.......
03-10-2008, 08:51 PM
#50
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im going to be doin a sts kit within the next couple weeks so this is a helpful thread to me, i was thinking to go get a tune with my MAF but now thinkin to do a SD, but now im also thinkin maybe i should just buy HP tuners because i also have another ls1 car to tune that is n/a and i have a buddy that needs a tune but i am really new to this. so here is my question....With the HP tuner could i find someone with the simular setup as me and download their tune so i could get a nice start and modify there tune if i wanted?
03-10-2008, 10:01 PM
#51
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Read some of the posts/responses. I did my own 2-bar setup in December, so here's my $0.02
First you need a 2-bar (or 3-bar sensor if you're making over 14.7psi) For the 2-bar it's the baro sensor from the Cobalt SS. Part # can be found in the sticky in this forum on forced induction FAQ.
To tune in 2-bar SD requires buying a 2-bar SD conversion if using HP Tuners (cost is 2 credits or $100, whatever unit you want to use
)
Begin by tuning the car part throttle in 1-bar SD. This will make the 2-bar conversion much mo' easier. Once the VE table is set up to 100kpa (ie part throttle), install the 2-bar sensor and install the conversion, which requires a "rewrite entire" of the PCM.
HP Tuners will provide step-by-step instructions for doing this. In short, add about 10%-20% to the 100-210kpa values from your current 100kpa values and then begin tuning from there. It isn't rocket science by any means, just a slow approach to note the values in the VE table for the new values and adjusting accordingly. To get the most of it, you'll need to dyno-tune the WOT full boost cells. Also, I wouldn't do any tuning w/out a WB O2 sensor.....period!!!!!
This was a very condensed version, but it can be done even by a novice. I tuned my car 1-bar SD in a week and had the 2-bar setup done in 3 days. Spent about 3 hours a day per session. I had only tuned one car other than my own before doing the conversion. I've driven 4K miles sincethe conversion (including many WOT blasts)....and all's well so far.
As far as SD tuning myths, temp fluctuations WON'T affect it. SD uses MAP pressure and IAT (from the intake). Period. Doesnt matter how cold it is outside, the IAT is providing a temp value to the PCM that is used in SD mode. HUMIDITY does affect it somewhat (for DA), but overall, once it's set, it's pretty much good to go
First you need a 2-bar (or 3-bar sensor if you're making over 14.7psi) For the 2-bar it's the baro sensor from the Cobalt SS. Part # can be found in the sticky in this forum on forced induction FAQ.
To tune in 2-bar SD requires buying a 2-bar SD conversion if using HP Tuners (cost is 2 credits or $100, whatever unit you want to use
)Begin by tuning the car part throttle in 1-bar SD. This will make the 2-bar conversion much mo' easier. Once the VE table is set up to 100kpa (ie part throttle), install the 2-bar sensor and install the conversion, which requires a "rewrite entire" of the PCM.
HP Tuners will provide step-by-step instructions for doing this. In short, add about 10%-20% to the 100-210kpa values from your current 100kpa values and then begin tuning from there. It isn't rocket science by any means, just a slow approach to note the values in the VE table for the new values and adjusting accordingly. To get the most of it, you'll need to dyno-tune the WOT full boost cells. Also, I wouldn't do any tuning w/out a WB O2 sensor.....period!!!!!
This was a very condensed version, but it can be done even by a novice. I tuned my car 1-bar SD in a week and had the 2-bar setup done in 3 days. Spent about 3 hours a day per session. I had only tuned one car other than my own before doing the conversion. I've driven 4K miles sincethe conversion (including many WOT blasts)....and all's well so far.
As far as SD tuning myths, temp fluctuations WON'T affect it. SD uses MAP pressure and IAT (from the intake). Period. Doesnt matter how cold it is outside, the IAT is providing a temp value to the PCM that is used in SD mode. HUMIDITY does affect it somewhat (for DA), but overall, once it's set, it's pretty much good to go
03-11-2008, 01:15 PM
#53
07-14-2008, 07:11 PM
#55
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As i posted on GTO forum,
I dont care what you make as far as rwhp, over 500ish rwhp the maf is pegged out, aka no more then 512g/s. The tuning is then done by PE modifier, this is not the correct way to tune.
Ex, you hit 512 g/s at 4500rpm, maf is done reading anymore, so you add more in by your PE table, well its done in 1000rpm or so increments so your commanding more fuel by rpm, not airflow, not boost.
What happens when the wastegate sticks and he over boosts? The pcm will not know what happened and you WILL go lean and bad things happen.
Also, with PE the tune changes with climate and altitude. Tune it in warm summer, well in the fall with some nice dense air you go lean.
PE is incorrect, why risk a motor when you can pick up a $60 2bar map sensor and run a OS where the PCM knows the boost lingo, fuel by boost, instead of guessing by rpm.
PE vs RPM, does work, and is usualy used by tuners that do not want to put the entire effort into a full VE + 2bar map tune.
I see no reason to chance it by running a cop out way to tuning when there is a perfect way of tuning, you 04-05 guys, EFI has you covered, the 06 HPT is on its way i belive.
We are doing a f1c blower car on a 06, and there was no tuning avalible for SD at the time, so on stock engine it used a MAF, it made 540 or so, and it did use PE at the top end, but its not maxing out in the mid range. Now that were upping boost numbers we swapped out to a standalone Bigstuff 3 computer that uses a 3bar map, the correct way of tuning big boost.
I dont care what you make as far as rwhp, over 500ish rwhp the maf is pegged out, aka no more then 512g/s. The tuning is then done by PE modifier, this is not the correct way to tune.
Ex, you hit 512 g/s at 4500rpm, maf is done reading anymore, so you add more in by your PE table, well its done in 1000rpm or so increments so your commanding more fuel by rpm, not airflow, not boost.
What happens when the wastegate sticks and he over boosts? The pcm will not know what happened and you WILL go lean and bad things happen.
Also, with PE the tune changes with climate and altitude. Tune it in warm summer, well in the fall with some nice dense air you go lean.
PE is incorrect, why risk a motor when you can pick up a $60 2bar map sensor and run a OS where the PCM knows the boost lingo, fuel by boost, instead of guessing by rpm.
PE vs RPM, does work, and is usualy used by tuners that do not want to put the entire effort into a full VE + 2bar map tune.
I see no reason to chance it by running a cop out way to tuning when there is a perfect way of tuning, you 04-05 guys, EFI has you covered, the 06 HPT is on its way i belive.
We are doing a f1c blower car on a 06, and there was no tuning avalible for SD at the time, so on stock engine it used a MAF, it made 540 or so, and it did use PE at the top end, but its not maxing out in the mid range. Now that were upping boost numbers we swapped out to a standalone Bigstuff 3 computer that uses a 3bar map, the correct way of tuning big boost.
07-15-2008, 06:52 PM
#56
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i was told that there are some pins that need to be changed around when swapping to a SD tune (using HP Tuners)
any insight on that?
im using a 99+ pcm
thanks
any insight on that?
im using a 99+ pcm
thanks
07-15-2008, 09:32 PM
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