best Wideband ???
07-12-2006, 11:46 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
best Wideband ??? I am wanting to start building my 02 z My first mod is going to be HP Tuners Pro. 
I was wandering if anyone could recommend the best wideband setup. I realize that a 5V reference is needed for the I/O on the PRO Module. Will wideband produce an o-5V reference or is there a module needed for these sensors for the 5v reference. Thanks for any info.
I was wandering if anyone could recommend the best wideband setup. I realize that a 5V reference is needed for the I/O on the PRO Module. Will wideband produce an o-5V reference or is there a module needed for these sensors for the 5v reference. Thanks for any info. 
07-13-2006, 05:53 AM
#2
I really like my dynojet wideband commander. Not the cheapest for sure but it does a lot. Besides wideband, it has a light that you can program to come on if the car is over/under a certain air/fuel reading...rpm....tps...it can turn on something like alky or nitrous at a certain a/f...tps...rpm. I mainly like it for the warning light. widebandcommander.com
07-13-2006, 07:41 AM
#4
What's your definition of "best"
Any that uses a bosch sensor is clearly not the "best" but works well for most people, since the cost is far more affordable, compared to a good wideband, such as the AFM1000 and the horiba widebands that use lab grade NTK sensors.
Ryan
Any that uses a bosch sensor is clearly not the "best" but works well for most people, since the cost is far more affordable, compared to a good wideband, such as the AFM1000 and the horiba widebands that use lab grade NTK sensors.
Ryan
07-13-2006, 09:21 AM
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
re I am not to particular just as long as the wideband is accurate enough so that I can tune appropriate So it looks as though you have to buy a wide Band summing module??? So the Dyno Jet and LM1 will supply A 0-5v Reference??? Thanks for the info
07-13-2006, 09:27 AM
#6
TECH Senior Member
yup, DynoJet , LM1 and LC1 all provide 0-5 reference
I've used both the LM1 and the LC1 (have LC1 now only cause my LM1 broke)
LC1 is a GREAT budget sensor... but if you can swing the extra 150 or so then definetly go w/the LM1 or if you can do more the Dynojet (though... I don't recall if dynojet can be recalibrated over time... whereas the innovate ones you can recalibrate them to ensure they're accurate)
I've used both the LM1 and the LC1 (have LC1 now only cause my LM1 broke)
LC1 is a GREAT budget sensor... but if you can swing the extra 150 or so then definetly go w/the LM1 or if you can do more the Dynojet (though... I don't recall if dynojet can be recalibrated over time... whereas the innovate ones you can recalibrate them to ensure they're accurate)
Trending Topics
07-14-2006, 01:02 AM
#9
I am partial to the LM1. I have both it and a LC1/XD16 combo. I prefer the LM1 for the portability it offers and ease of hook up compared to the LC1. If you want to move it from car to car, a LM1 is a must. If it is a permanent fixture for your car, a LC1 is mighty hard to pass over.
I'll add I agree to slow's post. If price isn't a issue, I'd look into something that offers a NTK sensor. Those mentioned above as well as FJO I believe. They offer a kit that will accept either a Bosch or NTK sensor.
I'll add I agree to slow's post. If price isn't a issue, I'd look into something that offers a NTK sensor. Those mentioned above as well as FJO I believe. They offer a kit that will accept either a Bosch or NTK sensor.
07-14-2006, 08:03 AM
#11
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BLACK02SS wrote. "I'll add I agree to slow's post. If price isn't a issue, I'd look into something that offers a NTK sensor. Those mentioned above as well as FJO I believe. They offer a kit that will accept either a Bosch or NTK sensor."
Correct, if price isn't an issue. We have an Horiba with the NTK sensor but we have switched over to an LC1 for most of our dyno tests and tuning, using the Horiba to monitor its calibration. The LC1 seems to read approx .2 more rich which we correct for thru calibration. The reasons we quit using the Horiba is the $900 cost of the NTK sensor. Even though it usually lasts several times longer then the LC1's Bosch sensor, we have had them quickly ruined by vehicles that use oil, run constanly rich or the normal dyno shop wear and tear such as getting its cable caught in the rollers. The other issue with the Horiba is that it monitors the NTK sensor's signals and shuts it down if, for example, it is too cool, then it takes a few minute warmup before it is usable again, an eternity between chargable by the hour pulls on the dyno. However, their logic is to shut it down if not within specs so you get no readings rather then incorrect ones, which is probably a plus. I'm very impressed with how close the LM1/LC1s track the Horiba with NTK though.
Correct, if price isn't an issue. We have an Horiba with the NTK sensor but we have switched over to an LC1 for most of our dyno tests and tuning, using the Horiba to monitor its calibration. The LC1 seems to read approx .2 more rich which we correct for thru calibration. The reasons we quit using the Horiba is the $900 cost of the NTK sensor. Even though it usually lasts several times longer then the LC1's Bosch sensor, we have had them quickly ruined by vehicles that use oil, run constanly rich or the normal dyno shop wear and tear such as getting its cable caught in the rollers. The other issue with the Horiba is that it monitors the NTK sensor's signals and shuts it down if, for example, it is too cool, then it takes a few minute warmup before it is usable again, an eternity between chargable by the hour pulls on the dyno. However, their logic is to shut it down if not within specs so you get no readings rather then incorrect ones, which is probably a plus. I'm very impressed with how close the LM1/LC1s track the Horiba with NTK though.
07-14-2006, 11:54 AM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slow
dynocar, that is nice to know.
What kind of powersupply are you running the LC1 with, vehicle power, or a dedicated power supply?
Ryan
What kind of powersupply are you running the LC1 with, vehicle power, or a dedicated power supply?
Ryan
07-14-2006, 12:35 PM
#16
Thanks for that information Dynocar, I have seen similar results with stable power inputs vs an AFM1000, but once battery voltage for a LM1 goes low, the results get skewed, I will have to do some testing with a LC1 to see how they are effected.
Ryan
Ryan
07-14-2006, 02:31 PM
#19
I am the lone one here I suppose. 
I have used the LM-1, Wideband Commander and now use exclusively the AEM Wideband. I have mine setup to plug into the cigarette lighter and into my HPT EIO. Very portable and it includes a gauge as well. The price is very competative to others, but very little hardware to carry around.
I have used the LM-1, Wideband Commander and now use exclusively the AEM Wideband. I have mine setup to plug into the cigarette lighter and into my HPT EIO. Very portable and it includes a gauge as well. The price is very competative to others, but very little hardware to carry around. 
