FAST Users inside...please :)
When we drive down the road in the car and ease into it, the car will build boost but indeed not like it used to.
The car had a 16 volt charging system on it and the alternator was seeing 18 or so to charge it. Is there a specific high voltage sensor we should look into or is there a difference. Is there a wideband sensor that will read successfully leaded gas...?
Im leaning towards a dead sensor causing the issue right now...Whats your thoughts?
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. My runs 16v at WOT throttle and I havent hurt any O2 sensors from the voltage, I dont think 18v will kill it. No real lead safe wideband sensors but if you use good race fuel (not that cheap 110 crap) they will live longer. If the car is tuned decent they will last a season, but running rich will kill them quick..
I just hope they dont NTK sensors, that can get a little pricey
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. My runs 16v at WOT throttle and I havent hurt any O2 sensors from the voltage, I dont think 18v will kill it. No real lead safe wideband sensors but if you use good race fuel (not that cheap 110 crap) they will live longer. If the car is tuned decent they will last a season, but running rich will kill them quick..
I just hope they dont NTK sensors, that can get a little pricey


I dont know if a planned failsafe or not but thats the way it works out..
Its an l1h1 sensor...
Has anyone succesfully replaced one without purchasing it through FAST for $400!??!?!
I know the resistor is in the harness and is removeable. I just dont want to order the Bosch comparable and it not read...
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Its an l1h1 sensor...
Has anyone succesfully replaced one without purchasing it through FAST for $400!??!?!
I know the resistor is in the harness and is removeable. I just dont want to order the Bosch comparable and it not read...
The internals on the L1H1 are different than the Bosch.. I'd be careful changing them over w/out making sure it won't toast the ECM.
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some light readng for ya:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm
http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm

some light readng for ya:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm
http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm
Bought the Honda sensor. Plugged it in and bam..no workie...
The resistor that FAST uses wouldt work exactly either so we made some slight modifcations to the new sensor house to get it to fit like it should. Took the new pins out and re pinned it to match the old sensor as far as heater wires etc in the positions to match the FAST harness and initial test shows good with the butane test...Once the trans goes in the car ill be able to for sure that its good...Im also going to double check its accuracy with a Innovate LM1 standalone.
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. ....
I'm not sure if you are referring to his or just WBs in general, but check this out...
My tune was GROSSLY rich at first to the point that it quickly totally fouled out the WB and NB O2s... WB would read dead-lean and occasionally read dead fat. The NB O2s read something like 13mV all the time and FTs were climbing. I was ready to replace them all when Jeff Creech told me to pull them out and heat them up with a propane torch and wipe the ash when they cool. I calibrated the WB in open-air and popped all of them back in. Presto!!! Back to life for all 3 of them. Within an hour I fouled them out like MAD again and repeated the procedure (got the tune right that time; well better anyway
) and it cleared them right up again.I was just tossing this out there because I had never heard or read of it before and I was ready to buy all new bits.
My tune was GROSSLY rich at first to the point that it quickly totally fouled out the WB and NB O2s... WB would read dead-lean and occasionally read dead fat. The NB O2s read something like 13mV all the time and FTs were climbing. I was ready to replace them all when Jeff Creech told me to pull them out and heat them up with a propane torch and wipe the ash when they cool. I calibrated the WB in open-air and popped all of them back in. Presto!!! Back to life for all 3 of them. Within an hour I fouled them out like MAD again and repeated the procedure (got the tune right that time; well better anyway
) and it cleared them right up again.I was just tossing this out there because I had never heard or read of it before and I was ready to buy all new bits.




