FAST Users inside...please :)
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FAST Users inside...please :)
My wideband O2 sensor is reading 15.94 A/F all the time. I know its not the case. I bring the car up on the trans brake and it wont build boost. Its not building boost because the car PCM is correcting for what it thinks is a lean condition. If looking at the sensor with the key on and its definitely heating up..
When we drive down the road in the car and ease into it, the car will build boost but indeed not like it used to.
The car had a 16 volt charging system on it and the alternator was seeing 18 or so to charge it. Is there a specific high voltage sensor we should look into or is there a difference. Is there a wideband sensor that will read successfully leaded gas...?
Im leaning towards a dead sensor causing the issue right now...Whats your thoughts?
When we drive down the road in the car and ease into it, the car will build boost but indeed not like it used to.
The car had a 16 volt charging system on it and the alternator was seeing 18 or so to charge it. Is there a specific high voltage sensor we should look into or is there a difference. Is there a wideband sensor that will read successfully leaded gas...?
Im leaning towards a dead sensor causing the issue right now...Whats your thoughts?
#2
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when the sensor is dead it goes full lean usually, on the two step it should turn off the wideband correction anyhow. Thats what a Gen7 and BS3 does, havent used the newer FAST but wideband correction with the two step on will throw way too much fuel in.
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. My runs 16v at WOT throttle and I havent hurt any O2 sensors from the voltage, I dont think 18v will kill it. No real lead safe wideband sensors but if you use good race fuel (not that cheap 110 crap) they will live longer. If the car is tuned decent they will last a season, but running rich will kill them quick..
I just hope they dont NTK sensors, that can get a little pricey
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. My runs 16v at WOT throttle and I havent hurt any O2 sensors from the voltage, I dont think 18v will kill it. No real lead safe wideband sensors but if you use good race fuel (not that cheap 110 crap) they will live longer. If the car is tuned decent they will last a season, but running rich will kill them quick..
I just hope they dont NTK sensors, that can get a little pricey
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Originally Posted by kp
when the sensor is dead it goes full lean usually, on the two step it should turn off the wideband correction anyhow. Thats what a Gen7 and BS3 does, havent used the newer FAST but wideband correction with the two step on will throw way too much fuel in.
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. My runs 16v at WOT throttle and I havent hurt any O2 sensors from the voltage, I dont think 18v will kill it. No real lead safe wideband sensors but if you use good race fuel (not that cheap 110 crap) they will live longer. If the car is tuned decent they will last a season, but running rich will kill them quick..
I just hope they dont NTK sensors, that can get a little pricey
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. My runs 16v at WOT throttle and I havent hurt any O2 sensors from the voltage, I dont think 18v will kill it. No real lead safe wideband sensors but if you use good race fuel (not that cheap 110 crap) they will live longer. If the car is tuned decent they will last a season, but running rich will kill them quick..
I just hope they dont NTK sensors, that can get a little pricey
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Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Thanks for the response KP..I thought it was pretty much a fail safe style setup too..Meaning going lean. Thats the least of the issues right now though. The glide needs to come out first..LOL Ill look over the config setups when I get home and check the correction on the 2 step...We just started having the issue though...When the sensor is working it does well.
I dont know if a planned failsafe or not but thats the way it works out..
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Old FAST or new FAST?
Its an l1h1 sensor...
Has anyone succesfully replaced one without purchasing it through FAST for $400!??!?!
I know the resistor is in the harness and is removeable. I just dont want to order the Bosch comparable and it not read...
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Try www.fjoracing.com and see if the connectors are the same. those NTK sensors sure do cost a whole helluv a lot
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#8
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My $.02...
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Im checking on that too...I bought it used.
Its an l1h1 sensor...
Has anyone succesfully replaced one without purchasing it through FAST for $400!??!?!
I know the resistor is in the harness and is removeable. I just dont want to order the Bosch comparable and it not read...
Its an l1h1 sensor...
Has anyone succesfully replaced one without purchasing it through FAST for $400!??!?!
I know the resistor is in the harness and is removeable. I just dont want to order the Bosch comparable and it not read...
The internals on the L1H1 are different than the Bosch.. I'd be careful changing them over w/out making sure it won't toast the ECM.
Back to
#10
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Bosch sensor is completely different, I remember when the NTKs were 90.00 before they got wind of what people were doing with them and the supply dried up and price tripled
some light readng for ya:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm
http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm
some light readng for ya:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm
http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm
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Originally Posted by kp
Bosch sensor is completely different, I remember when the NTKs were 90.00 before they got wind of what people were doing with them and the supply dried up and price tripled
some light readng for ya:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm
http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm
some light readng for ya:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm
http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm
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Got the sensor issue fixed...
Bought the Honda sensor. Plugged it in and bam..no workie...
The resistor that FAST uses wouldt work exactly either so we made some slight modifcations to the new sensor house to get it to fit like it should. Took the new pins out and re pinned it to match the old sensor as far as heater wires etc in the positions to match the FAST harness and initial test shows good with the butane test...Once the trans goes in the car ill be able to for sure that its good...Im also going to double check its accuracy with a Innovate LM1 standalone.
Bought the Honda sensor. Plugged it in and bam..no workie...
The resistor that FAST uses wouldt work exactly either so we made some slight modifcations to the new sensor house to get it to fit like it should. Took the new pins out and re pinned it to match the old sensor as far as heater wires etc in the positions to match the FAST harness and initial test shows good with the butane test...Once the trans goes in the car ill be able to for sure that its good...Im also going to double check its accuracy with a Innovate LM1 standalone.
#14
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Originally Posted by kp
....
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. ....
Doesnt take much to kill one of those widebands, one drop or a couple blasts that are way too rich and they are done.. ....
I'm not sure if you are referring to his or just WBs in general, but check this out...
My tune was GROSSLY rich at first to the point that it quickly totally fouled out the WB and NB O2s... WB would read dead-lean and occasionally read dead fat. The NB O2s read something like 13mV all the time and FTs were climbing. I was ready to replace them all when Jeff Creech told me to pull them out and heat them up with a propane torch and wipe the ash when they cool. I calibrated the WB in open-air and popped all of them back in. Presto!!! Back to life for all 3 of them. Within an hour I fouled them out like MAD again and repeated the procedure (got the tune right that time; well better anyway ) and it cleared them right up again.
I was just tossing this out there because I had never heard or read of it before and I was ready to buy all new bits.
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Originally Posted by Frost
I'm not sure if you are referring to his or just WBs in general, but check this out...
My tune was GROSSLY rich at first to the point that it quickly totally fouled out the WB and NB O2s... WB would read dead-lean and occasionally read dead fat. The NB O2s read something like 13mV all the time and FTs were climbing. I was ready to replace them all when Jeff Creech told me to pull them out and heat them up with a propane torch and wipe the ash when they cool. I calibrated the WB in open-air and popped all of them back in. Presto!!! Back to life for all 3 of them. Within an hour I fouled them out like MAD again and repeated the procedure (got the tune right that time; well better anyway ) and it cleared them right up again.
I was just tossing this out there because I had never heard or read of it before and I was ready to buy all new bits.
My tune was GROSSLY rich at first to the point that it quickly totally fouled out the WB and NB O2s... WB would read dead-lean and occasionally read dead fat. The NB O2s read something like 13mV all the time and FTs were climbing. I was ready to replace them all when Jeff Creech told me to pull them out and heat them up with a propane torch and wipe the ash when they cool. I calibrated the WB in open-air and popped all of them back in. Presto!!! Back to life for all 3 of them. Within an hour I fouled them out like MAD again and repeated the procedure (got the tune right that time; well better anyway ) and it cleared them right up again.
I was just tossing this out there because I had never heard or read of it before and I was ready to buy all new bits.
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Originally Posted by kp
I have torched them myself seveal times and brought them back to life, sometimes it works and sometimes it dont.