High Idle
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From: brimfield, illinois
High Idle I'm not sure if this is a tuning problem but here we go. I bought a 2000 camaro a month ago and it has an idleing problem. Sometimes the idle is fine but then other times, while moving, it will idle up to between 1500-2000 rpm and idle down only when the car is stopped (not rolling) down to 1000 rpm. A few times it won't idle down at all. I can put the clutch in while rolling at any speed and it will idle up to 1500 rpm and stay there. This car does have a cam installed which is in my signature. no ses lights are on and it seems like all the vacuum tubes are hooked up but the emissions are deleted. thanks for any help
Originally Posted by pddye
I'm not sure if this is a tuning problem but here we go. I bought a 2000 camaro a month ago and it has an idleing problem. Sometimes the idle is fine but then other times, while moving, it will idle up to between 1500-2000 rpm and idle down only when the car is stopped (not rolling) down to 1000 rpm. A few times it won't idle down at all. I can put the clutch in while rolling at any speed and it will idle up to 1500 rpm and stay there. This car does have a cam installed which is in my signature. no ses lights are on and it seems like all the vacuum tubes are hooked up but the emissions are deleted. thanks for any help
#1: A Bad Tune
#2: A sticking TB Blade
#3: A dirty/sticking or broken IAC control
There could be other things, but I'd check those first.
Idle Air Control. It varies the amount of air when the TB is closed (at idle). If it is sticking slightly you will see an issue such as you are reporting. Not to say that is the problem, but it is a symptom of an IAC sticking. You can pull it off and clean it with a non-residue cleaner, such as electronics cleaner, brake cleaner, etc.
Throttle cracker in the tune adds airflow when rolling.
If you've (or previous owner) "fixed" it by drilling the
blade or jacking the set-screw then you have more
air than it needs now.
A parked idle that "sticks" high can be a vacuum leak
or the aforementioned sort of cobbling.
You probably would like to know what all has been
done and how much of it was done right (last year's
"smart" being this year's fashion mistake, and the like).
If you've (or previous owner) "fixed" it by drilling the
blade or jacking the set-screw then you have more
air than it needs now.
A parked idle that "sticks" high can be a vacuum leak
or the aforementioned sort of cobbling.
You probably would like to know what all has been
done and how much of it was done right (last year's
"smart" being this year's fashion mistake, and the like).
Last edited by jimmyblue; Dec 26, 2006 at 02:20 PM.
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From: brimfield, illinois
I just looked thru the previous owners posts on this site and it looks like he had the same problem. The throttle blade wasn't drilled by him and he didn't know how to fix the problem either. With that ls6 intake i'm going to look for a leak and also check that iac motor. Also i think there was a bad tune b/c my hp and torque numbers seem low.
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Thread Starter
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From: brimfield, illinois
It was tuned by speed inc i believe. They put in the cam and it was one of there custom grinds, but i'm going to see what a local guy in peoria thinks about tuning. The motor idles down when it stops rolling after a second so i would believe tuning has to be the problem. If anyone thinks anything could be the case please chime in. I really appreciate the help
Im having the exact same problem as you. Although mine seems fine on a cold start but once it gets warm the car begins the breath up and down the idle goes. Went to Harris Speed Works to see if he could fix it, said he had no luck with it, being something mechanical then electronical. SES light says "Idle Control system RPM too high" ...Anyone able to help us out with this IAC motor, or whatever it is.
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From: North liberty, IOWA
it sounds like a tune issue probably with the throttle cracker and the reason it only dose it when the car is moving is because the throttle cracker is probably only enabled when the vehicle speed is above 0 mph i had the same problem after i put my cam in i set my throttle cracker table all to 0 and set the enable speed to 256 and the problem is gone now
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From: AL
LS1 Birdy I am struggled with a similar problem.
Mine was a vacuum leak, but I found I can create the symptoms you
list by raising the base spark table or by changing the enable points (TPS) so that the computer doesn't shift to the base table.
When you push the clutch in the spark table goes from the main table to the base table, but idle routines to stablize rpm don't go into effect until speed is <1mph. Look under throttle cracker enable speeds
I am no expert, but it is worth a look.
Mine was a vacuum leak, but I found I can create the symptoms you
list by raising the base spark table or by changing the enable points (TPS) so that the computer doesn't shift to the base table.
When you push the clutch in the spark table goes from the main table to the base table, but idle routines to stablize rpm don't go into effect until speed is <1mph. Look under throttle cracker enable speeds
I am no expert, but it is worth a look.
