More Tuning Questions!!!!
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From: Chicago
More Tuning Questions!!!! Ok, so i had my car back at the shop and we accomplished nothing 
here is my problem.. i have terrible warm starts. My IAC will not reset to 310. we have tried every god damn thing possible. How do you fix the IAC??
so here is what we tried yesterday. tried the throttle stop screw. we unscrewed it so that more air would get in on start up. Viola.. warm start was fixed. that biatch started right up. But you fix one thing and another thing happens.. My car used to idle at 850 - 870. now it idles at 1000 - 1100 and when driving i have idle hang.
so we turned the screw back down. got my idle back to where it should be, no more idle hang, but know coming to a stop the idle surges. dips down to 400, up to 1000 back down 400 up to 1000 then finally it holds... SO WTF!!!!!!
So i put the screw back up a bit. little better of a warm start, no idle hang and no dipping.. so i am getting pissed now.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
here is my problem.. i have terrible warm starts. My IAC will not reset to 310. we have tried every god damn thing possible. How do you fix the IAC??
so here is what we tried yesterday. tried the throttle stop screw. we unscrewed it so that more air would get in on start up. Viola.. warm start was fixed. that biatch started right up. But you fix one thing and another thing happens.. My car used to idle at 850 - 870. now it idles at 1000 - 1100 and when driving i have idle hang.
so we turned the screw back down. got my idle back to where it should be, no more idle hang, but know coming to a stop the idle surges. dips down to 400, up to 1000 back down 400 up to 1000 then finally it holds... SO WTF!!!!!!
So i put the screw back up a bit. little better of a warm start, no idle hang and no dipping.. so i am getting pissed now.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by brad8266
You are having too many issues man.
I just got my setup running yesterday and it holds a fine idle with just a few settings changed, lol.
I just got my setup running yesterday and it holds a fine idle with just a few settings changed, lol.thanks for rubbing it in Brad
hey BTW i poted my sound clips in the externa section and multi media section.. take a look
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
thanks for rubbing it in Brad
hey BTW i poted my sound clips in the externa section and multi media section.. take a look
hey BTW i poted my sound clips in the externa section and multi media section.. take a look
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/673147-idle-tuning-ls1-edit-sorry-asking-i-searched-though.html
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Once your Base Running Airflow is dialed in, you should adjust the set screw to bring IAC counts into a 60~70 step range at a warm idle. Start-up issues need to be addressed in the start-up tables. In order to help my '01 start easier, I added 4 grams/sec to the start-up friction airflow correction table. Now on warm starts (coolant temps greater than 111*F), it purs like a kitten because the IAC is allowing 7~9 grams/sec of airflow after start-up instead of the 3~5 grams/second that it used to. It's really easy to find in EFILive (Engine>Idle>Start-Up directory). Hopefully, HPT has it in an easy to find place too. Maybe one of the HPT guys could tell you where to find this table???
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Hopefully, HPT has it in an easy to find place too. Maybe one of the HPT guys could tell you where to find this table???
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Originally Posted by Doc
Don't forget to do the TPS reset (unplug the tps w/key on) each time you adjust the set screw.
i never did that.. was i supposed to obviously....
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Once your Base Running Airflow is dialed in, you should adjust the set screw to bring IAC counts into a 60~70 step range at a warm idle. Start-up issues need to be addressed in the start-up tables. In order to help my '01 start easier, I added 4 grams/sec to the start-up friction airflow correction table. Now on warm starts (coolant temps greater than 111*F), it purs like a kitten because the IAC is allowing 7~9 grams/sec of airflow after start-up instead of the 3~5 grams/second that it used to. It's really easy to find in EFILive (Engine>Idle>Start-Up directory). Hopefully, HPT has it in an easy to find place too. Maybe one of the HPT guys could tell you where to find this table???
yea man that warm start with the coolant is killing me. but when i tuned the idle set screw to opne the TB blade up it started fine.. but then i got idle hang...
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
yea man that warm start with the coolant is killing me. but when i tuned the idle set screw to opne the TB blade up it started fine.. but then i got idle hang...
Originally Posted by foff667
Looks like its under Engine-Idle-Idle Airflow...frictional airflow initial.
Originally Posted by Doc
Don't forget to do the TPS reset (unplug the tps w/key on) each time you adjust the set screw.
I've always done this (and always do) but check this out... On 2 cars now that had cams tossed in that I tuned, the guys jacked the TB screw open to help them out getting the car to me to get it tuned, and in both cases, the TPS had reset itself. Both of them had moved it so far that they had idle hang and massive "cruise control" but the scanner showed 0%TPS when the cars got to me and neither guy did the reset.
Just something I noticed and thought I'd pass along.
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
The set screw will cause problems if opened too far - it's not the solution. Open it so the IAC reads 60~70 at idle (at operating temps) and fix the warm starts in the PCM. The tuner should be able to find this table if he's using HPT:
right now i think the set screw is fine...
At operating temp 168*, the IAC reads 45 - 65 at idle..
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From: Chicago
i swear that i am running rich.. reason being is that at idle, coming out of both tips there is a some hint of a whitish smoke... it smells like raw fuel too.. i did pull 3 codes with my 02s (P0140, P0155, P0160)
bank 2 is +2 then bank 1 was +8 on the long term fuel trim. So they are off.. I think that my 02s are bad...
i filled up yesterday on 93 octane, drove 75 miles, and i am at a half tank. that was not really going above 3K rpms...
This cam is killing me....
can the cut of 110 be the cause of all my problems.
bank 2 is +2 then bank 1 was +8 on the long term fuel trim. So they are off.. I think that my 02s are bad...
i filled up yesterday on 93 octane, drove 75 miles, and i am at a half tank. that was not really going above 3K rpms...
This cam is killing me....
can the cut of 110 be the cause of all my problems.
Man i got my setup up and running today with a blind idle tune and my car does normal cruising like a stock car, lol, well except for the loudness. No bucking, surging or cruise control. As matter of fact i hit the highway and set my criuse at 60Mph in 6th gear and it criused just like a stock car, lol.
read my thread in the internal forum man
Go get a cam like mine man 232/236 112 LSA XE lobes FTW!!!!
read my thread in the internal forum man
Go get a cam like mine man
232/236 112 LSA XE lobes FTW!!!!
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
i swear that i am running rich.. reason being is that at idle, coming out of both tips there is a some hint of a whitish smoke... it smells like raw fuel too.. i did pull 3 codes with my 02s (P0140, P0155, P0160)
bank 2 is +2 then bank 1 was +8 on the long term fuel trim. So they are off.. I think that my 02s are bad...
i filled up yesterday on 93 octane, drove 75 miles, and i am at a half tank. that was not really going above 3K rpms...
This cam is killing me....
can the cut of 110 be the cause of all my problems.
bank 2 is +2 then bank 1 was +8 on the long term fuel trim. So they are off.. I think that my 02s are bad...
i filled up yesterday on 93 octane, drove 75 miles, and i am at a half tank. that was not really going above 3K rpms...
This cam is killing me....
can the cut of 110 be the cause of all my problems.
SSspdmon,
I would guess it is better to run wideband sensors to simulate the narrowbands right? I am running kinda rich at idle due to my overlap (10 degrees). Widebands in place of the narrowbands would help to clear this up right?
I would guess it is better to run wideband sensors to simulate the narrowbands right? I am running kinda rich at idle due to my overlap (10 degrees). Widebands in place of the narrowbands would help to clear this up right?
If the sensors are working right, then they're going to read the same...NBO2's a little more accurate than the WB's....but, mostly the same. Now, what you might be able to do is custom program the WBO2 voltage output so they switch around 15.5:1. But, then you would have to significantly lower the PE TP% enablers because 15.5:1 is too lean for higher loads while still in PE. Besides, I think the costs would outweigh the benefits at the end of the day. I'd much rather buy 1 WBO2 and a guage to monitor the car while it's in open loop full time.