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Another "Quickin Question"......P1133

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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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Default Another "Quickin Question"......P1133

All I want to know is:

Advcance Auto scan tool says: Manufacturer Control, Fuel Air Metering

This site in one of the sticky's says: HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1

***What part do I change?

Thanks.

Advance says to replace the MAF, so............

I don't know why, but I "UNPLUGGED" my MAF when I got home just to see if that would change anything and the engine runs 100% perfect with the MAF unplugged.
How can it run perfect with NO MAF????

WTF!!!!!!


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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=P1133

Quick search found tons of info on this, looks like you have some reading to do, lol.
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by sprayjunkie
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=P1133

Quick search found tons of info on this, looks like you have some reading to do, lol.
Damn, I think I know what the problem is from that thread...thanks alot man. It was on the last 2 pages too, but worth the read.

.
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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But hey, do you know why the engine runs perfect with the MAF "unplugged"?


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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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Unplugging the MAF is effectively forcing your car into SD which is apparently a better condition (which in a perfect/better tune should not be) then your not so quasi CL MAF mode of fueling (the exhaust leak around the header collector is causing this by the way). Fix the leak, then fix the tune. In a properly tuned car you should not have an appreciable difference btw running the MAF or not. Bigger cam setups take certain advantages of pure SD setups.
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc
Unplugging the MAF is effectively forcing your car into SD which is apparently a better condition (which in a perfect/better tune should not be) then your not so quasi CL MAF mode of fueling (the exhaust leak around the header collector is causing this by the way). Fix the leak, then fix the tune. In a properly tuned car you should not have an appreciable difference btw running the MAF or not. Bigger cam setups take certain advantages of pure SD setups.
I had the leak fixed 3 weeks ago. Had a custom exhaust shop weld a pipe in place of the old cat and the leak, the leak is gone.

But I did put new Bosch O2's in last time, maybe 3 months ago, so maybe I should open the slots in the 02's?

Should I just run with the MAF unplugged?


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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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You might have paid a shop but your sensors are telling you that they did not get it right yet. You might have to go commando on them, trust me, it took a really good local exhaust guy 2 times before he got the leak. My guy had to use a coat hanger to get the top/floorboard part of the collector welded in right. My guy freaked when I showed him the scanner screen literally depicting the inactivity on the passenger side compared to the driver's side. Only unplugg the MAF if you have it SD tuned. Sounds like you need a good exhaust shop and a tune...
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Doc
You might have paid a shop but your sensors are telling you that they did not get it right yet. You might have to go commando on them, trust me, it took a really good local exhaust guy 2 times before he got the leak. My guy had to use a coat hanger to get the top/floorboard part of the collector welded in right. My guy freaked when I showed him the scanner screen literally depicting the inactivity on the passenger side compared to the driver's side. Only unplugg the MAF if you have it SD tuned. Sounds like you need a good exhaust shop and a tune...
I had the car on a lift last Saturday, we changed my flywheel/flexplate. I checked all around the pipe that was welded in to see or feel on my fingers for any black soot. It was spotless. When it was leaking there was thick coats of black soot everywhere around the leaky spots. And I don't hear the leak anymore, before it was amazingly loud ticking near my driver door by my feet, and it smelled like exhaust. Its all better.

If there are truly no more leaks....what else would cause that code?

Hmmmmmmm......... Screw it man, the engine is coming out in about 3 weeks anyway, hopefully the engine will run fine, I don't care if the SES light stays on, as long it runs good.


.

Last edited by Quickin; Jun 8, 2007 at 12:59 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc
You might have paid a shop but your sensors are telling you that they did not get it right yet. You might have to go commando on them, trust me, it took a really good local exhaust guy 2 times before he got the leak. My guy had to use a coat hanger to get the top/floorboard part of the collector welded in right. My guy freaked when I showed him the scanner screen literally depicting the inactivity on the passenger side compared to the driver's side. Only unplugg the MAF if you have it SD tuned. Sounds like you need a good exhaust shop and a tune...
Doc,

So, I woke up this morning in Orlando, drove 210 miles to Lauderdale, drove around all doing things, then started driving back to Orlando. About half way back the SES light went out and stayed out.

Any idea why it would go out?

Just curious.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 11:30 PM
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just turn the p1133 and p1153 codes off....car will run fine
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ZL1Killa
just turn the p1133 and p1153 codes off....car will run fine
How do I do that? I have no tuning type programmers.


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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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Quickin.......for some reason I experienced this code a few weeks ago and my cheap Actron Scanner also said MAF Metering Sensor needed to be replaced.When I dug in deeper I found that it was indeed a O2 insufficiant switching code.WTF!!Anyways, changed out to a new pair of GM O2's and no problems since.Traver
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairws6
Quickin.......for some reason I experienced this code a few weeks ago and my cheap Actron Scanner also said MAF Metering Sensor needed to be replaced.When I dug in deeper I found that it was indeed a O2 insufficiant switching code.WTF!!Anyways, changed out to a new pair of GM O2's and no problems since.Traver
What about this: I just spoke to a friend and told him that I can unplug my MAF completely and the car runs normal, it runs the same as its run for years. He said that my MAF probably failed long ago and I've been in a SD tune since.
And now that he says this, I remember about 2 months ago I unplugged my throttle position sensor to see what would happen and the car again, still ran normal.

So maybe the MAF is gone and I've been running in SD for a few months now.

If you know, lets consider that this is true and my MAF did fail a few months and I am solidly in a default SD tune. Would that cause a rich condition?????

Because with these other two things I said above, I've also been using alot more gas than normal for the past few months.

Also, I bought a new MAF yesterday, just a plain old stock one from Advance Auto, just to put on until my engine gets pulled out. I see no reason to replace my expensive Z06 MAF. Can I go out and put this on or will it not work with whatever tune I originally had done for my 436 when everything was working properly?


Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..................


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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:31 PM
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Depending on how the tune is set up, it may or may not like the stock MAF (I assume you mean a stock F-body MAF). The Z06 MAFs are pretty cheap, I see them for less than $150 all the time.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sprayjunkie
Depending on how the tune is set up, it may or may not like the stock MAF (I assume you mean a stock F-body MAF). The Z06 MAFs are pretty cheap, I see them for less than $150 all the time.
You know, I guess its been about 5 years since I had it put in and it was pretty damn expensive back then.'

Where can I get them for ~$150, for that I might as weell get it. And yes, the one I bought at Advance was just a stock F-Body OEM replacement. Now I do still have the stock sized TB, so maybe it'll be OK.

I'll try it.
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