koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I have an LM1, which I have not connected up in 6-8 months. I went to remove the bung plug this afternoon and I could not get the plug out of the dang bung. Is there anything I can do, or would I be better off just getting another one welded on? I thought it was SS, but I must have been incorrect.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

This is why I prefer the Toyota 18mm oil pan bolt, it has
a nice chunky hex head. The Allen plugs are bad news.
Maybe an impact gun. Might try and cool the plug with
an ice cube while the exhaust pipe is hot.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Thanks, jimmyblue. It was the one that came with the kit, so I just used it. I have decided that it will stay where it is, and I will put a new one on the tailpipe after the turbo. Then I am going to permanently install the sensor and run the wire up through my fuel pump door. I can then store the cable behind the back seat when I am not using my LM1.
The cost of the allen wrench impact socket will cost close to what the new bung install will cost, so what the hay.

horist

spray it with lots of WD40... let it soak... hit it with leverage .... 1/2" breaker bar, appropriate socket (a good one, not sears... you need a strong socket so it doesn't round it) and a pipe..... if it won't break lose with gently applied torque (1/2" breaker bar + a pipe is a ton of torque) and WD40 ... you can try heating it with a torch and repeat...

RacerScott

iTrader: (6)

use anti seize when you put it back in

Torkman15

iTrader: (2)

Anti-seize and the 18 MM Toyota oil drain plug, works great even in Michigan where even plastic parts rust.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for all the suggestions, but I really am going to move it to the back. The fuel pump door was the deal breaker. Now I can leave everything on/in the car instead of having to install it when I want to use it and run the cable through my window.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

It only took me a couple of minutes to run the cable from a body plug to the bung.