Do I Need to Be Re-Tuned?
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From: College Station/La Porte, TX
Do I Need to Be Re-Tuned? I got my car dyno tuned a couple weeks ago shortly after my header install. My car made 326/338 on the baseline run and 332/351 after the tune. Both numbers are SAE corrected and the car was ran through the cutout. My AFR was about 13.45 pre-tune and was backed down to 13.05 post tune. The next day I jack up the car to track down an exhaust leak (really loud ticking), it turns out that the #8 spark plug was really loose and wobbly, I could grab it and move it around in the hole. I also cleaned my MAF sensor (something that shouldve been done before the tune 
). The MAF was really dirty, mainly because of my volant re-oilable filter I have. I also Re- oiled it within the past 6k mile or so. So after all that being said, do ya'll think it would be necessary to get re-tuned (only 75 bucks) due to the changed variables (clean MAF and all 8 cylinders)? I personally thought my car dynoed pretty low and I was hoping for about 345/355. What do ya'll think? Thanks in advance.
). The MAF was really dirty, mainly because of my volant re-oilable filter I have. I also Re- oiled it within the past 6k mile or so. So after all that being said, do ya'll think it would be necessary to get re-tuned (only 75 bucks) due to the changed variables (clean MAF and all 8 cylinders)? I personally thought my car dynoed pretty low and I was hoping for about 345/355. What do ya'll think? Thanks in advance. Thread Starter
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From: College Station/La Porte, TX
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Back up to the part about getting a tune for $75... 
Doubt it, man, but I'm no expert.
Doubt it, man, but I'm no expert.
Get it retuned. The tuner should've known when the A/F was 13.45:1 untuned, that the MAF was dirty. Even with headers, thats a dead ringer for a dirty MAF.
Cleaning it probably just lowered your A/F a full point.
Cleaning it probably just lowered your A/F a full point.
At the least, you should hook up to a WB to see where you're at now (on the street). It'll tell you for sure whether or not you need to get re-tuned. Ed could be right saying you richened up a full point....or you could be floating around 12.5~12.8:1 AFR wise. It's a total guess as to what's going on. If you find you're running richer than 12.5 or leaner than 13.0, then yes - get it re-tuned.
Keep numbers in mind though as what you run on the street is not necessarily what you'll run on a dyno.
Keep numbers in mind though as what you run on the street is not necessarily what you'll run on a dyno.
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Going by my exp., stockers are usually 11.4-11.5:1. Install headers, no tune, if everythings right, about 12.5:1. So ,based on his being 13.45:1 untuned, I would think that cleaning the MAF at that point would get it right back to the 12.5:1. So, if they tuned it without cleaning the maf, and got it to say, 13:1, you would probably still get the same change from cleaning it. A full point. Or at least thats how it works in my pea brain!! 
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Going by my exp., stockers are usually 11.4-11.5:1. Install headers, no tune, if everythings right, about 12.5:1. So ,based on his being 13.45:1 untuned, I would think that cleaning the MAF at that point would get it right back to the 12.5:1. So, if they tuned it without cleaning the maf, and got it to say, 13:1, you would probably still get the same change from cleaning it. A full point. Or at least thats how it works in my pea brain!!
If there's one thing I've seen in life, it's that, inconsitency is the only constant in the real world.
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From: College Station/La Porte, TX
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
At the least, you should hook up to a WB to see where you're at now (on the street). It'll tell you for sure whether or not you need to get re-tuned. Ed could be right saying you richened up a full point....or you could be floating around 12.5~12.8:1 AFR wise. It's a total guess as to what's going on. If you find you're running richer than 12.5 or leaner than 13.0, then yes - get it re-tuned.
Keep numbers in mind though as what you run on the street is not necessarily what you'll run on a dyno.
Keep numbers in mind though as what you run on the street is not necessarily what you'll run on a dyno.
I think im gonna go ahead with the retune. Just for peace of mind, and just from my little understanding of tuning, it would make sense to get it done.
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
You would need a wideband, such as the LM-1 or LC-1.
It would be cheaper by far to just go ahead with the retune.
It would be cheaper by far to just go ahead with the retune.