??Stalling after start up???
??Stalling after start up??? Ok I just did a ls6 intake, and 228/232 595 110lsa cam. With a pcmforless tune. The car is running great the only problem is when I first start it the rpm goes to 1000 then down to where it either sputters before it goes to idle or it stalls. Any ideas I know it will start funny cause of the size cam but I dont think it should be as bad as it is sometimes I need to take the rpms up to keep it running before I let it idle. Throttle body is drilled 3/16 maybe I need to go bigger.. Any ideas would be great..
What's 3/16", the blade hole? What's the IAC port situation
(epoxied or stock)?
I've played with this a fair bit with a smaller cam and what has
settled it down it returning to a stock afterstart enrichment
profile; I had leaned it out while fighting the IAC (too small a
hole in the epoxy) and going back to stock afterstart enrichment
value, delay & decay has made it quit yo-yo-ing for the first few
seconds of cold start.
This kind of thing would be a bitch to tweak up by mail. Even a
"dyno tune", are they going to ever cold start it? More than once
might mean days at the shop, for a real cold start, and that's not
your usual dyno dude's preferred thing to dick with.
(epoxied or stock)?
I've played with this a fair bit with a smaller cam and what has
settled it down it returning to a stock afterstart enrichment
profile; I had leaned it out while fighting the IAC (too small a
hole in the epoxy) and going back to stock afterstart enrichment
value, delay & decay has made it quit yo-yo-ing for the first few
seconds of cold start.
This kind of thing would be a bitch to tweak up by mail. Even a
"dyno tune", are they going to ever cold start it? More than once
might mean days at the shop, for a real cold start, and that's not
your usual dyno dude's preferred thing to dick with.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4
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1968 Firebird 2001 LSI motor This past winter I had a 2001 LS1 motor put into my 68 firebird. I promptly took it to the track and blew out my 10 bolt rear end. I replaced it with a 9" ford with a Detroit locker from Moser Engineering and at the same time updated my drum brakes to 13" disc on front and 11" on the rear. Having much more fun at the track now!
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First the base airflow table need to be close, and logging requied airflow in P/N and in Gear is going to tell you how much to add or take away from that table. Then I would add some air to the startup airflow friction table, I sometimes have to add up to 4 g/s more than stock on some cams. Also, I would add 100-150 rpms on startup and have that decayed out about 20 rpms/sec. That also helps get it up and running without the common dip/stall.
Last edited by Rhino79; Oct 29, 2007 at 08:00 PM.
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