Can someone check out my tune?
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I am tuning with efilive and have made a few changed to my tune. I dont have a wideband yet so I dont know the A/F ratio. It is a heads/cam full bolt ons forged 347. I want to get a few opinions on how it compares to others and what I need to change.
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Yes. I copied and pasted most of the tune off of another pcm. The car actually seems to run better on the old 6.0 tune. Do you want to look at it also? I will post them in a min.
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Also, what's done to the car? I noticed some injector changes. What else? !AIR/!EGR?
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All emissions are off, no cats, ls6 intake, 30lb injectors, tea stage2 5.3 heads, comp 240 244 on a 112, cometic 0.40 head gaskets, diamond flat tops, compstar 6.125 rods, stock crank, 6 speed, ported tb and maf, pacesetter longtubes, ory pipe, ngk tr55s, underdrive pulleys. I think thats all. I really apprecite your help.
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If you look at the operating system of the tune you posted up top (OS#09381344) and compare it to the stock file (OS#09360361) you just posted, they're not the same. I have a stock 2000 F-body file for OS#0981344, but there are differences between 1999 and 2000. What I'm trying to do is a compare in EFI Live, but the software requires files from the same operating system. This is the easiest way to tell what parameters you have changed. Using the stock '00 file shows me the changes you made plus the natural differences between the two years.
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The VE table looks untouched. The Low Octane table is modified, and actually has more timing in it than the high octane in some regions. The RAF looks too low for your cam. ALL the 02 codes are off, upstream and downstream, no need in that. The fuel trim codes, bank 1 and 2 are off. No need in that either.
First thihg you need to do is get the RAF dialed so it will idle good. Then, set it up to tune the VE table. Need to disable the MAF to do that.
The spark tables need work. They should be flattened in and around idle. That'll help stabilize the idle. Also getting the VE dialed in will make a huge difference in the way it runs, idles, everything.
Thats just what I saw quickly. I'm sure theres more.
PS the EGR is not disabled. Technically neither is the AIR. The codes may be deleted, I didnt look for that, but to systems themselves havent been disabled.
First thihg you need to do is get the RAF dialed so it will idle good. Then, set it up to tune the VE table. Need to disable the MAF to do that.
The spark tables need work. They should be flattened in and around idle. That'll help stabilize the idle. Also getting the VE dialed in will make a huge difference in the way it runs, idles, everything.
Thats just what I saw quickly. I'm sure theres more.
PS the EGR is not disabled. Technically neither is the AIR. The codes may be deleted, I didnt look for that, but to systems themselves havent been disabled.
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Spoke too soon I guess... ![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
If you look at the operating system of the tune you posted up top (OS#09381344) and compare it to the stock file (OS#09360361) you just posted, they're not the same. I have a stock 2000 F-body file for OS#0981344, but there are differences between 1999 and 2000. What I'm trying to do is a compare in EFI Live, but the software requires files from the same operating system. This is the easiest way to tell what parameters you have changed. Using the stock '00 file shows me the changes you made plus the natural differences between the two years.
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
If you look at the operating system of the tune you posted up top (OS#09381344) and compare it to the stock file (OS#09360361) you just posted, they're not the same. I have a stock 2000 F-body file for OS#0981344, but there are differences between 1999 and 2000. What I'm trying to do is a compare in EFI Live, but the software requires files from the same operating system. This is the easiest way to tell what parameters you have changed. Using the stock '00 file shows me the changes you made plus the natural differences between the two years.
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I went through and made some changes based on what I've seen with cam'd applications. The VE is definitely going to need some work with a WB. It should drive a lot better with these timing tables though. Also, I gave you the injector settings I had with my SVO-30's. Take a look and keep what you like (at a minimum, I suggest keeping the IAC and spark related tables). If you have any questions about the changes, let me know.
To do a comparison in EFI Live, load this tune. Then, click File>Load alternate calibration for comparison and open the file that is in the car now. Then, click the red arrows <--> that light up on the top left of the program. That'll produce a list of differences.
I have to say though....if you're running open loop without a WBO2 hooked up, you're playing a dangerous game. Not knowing if you're running too lean isn't the kind of game you want to play IMO.
To do a comparison in EFI Live, load this tune. Then, click File>Load alternate calibration for comparison and open the file that is in the car now. Then, click the red arrows <--> that light up on the top left of the program. That'll produce a list of differences.
I have to say though....if you're running open loop without a WBO2 hooked up, you're playing a dangerous game. Not knowing if you're running too lean isn't the kind of game you want to play IMO.
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I went through and made some changes based on what I've seen with cam'd applications. The VE is definitely going to need some work with a WB. It should drive a lot better with these timing tables though. Also, I gave you the injector settings I had with my SVO-30's. Take a look and keep what you like (at a minimum, I suggest keeping the IAC and spark related tables). If you have any questions about the changes, let me know.
To do a comparison in EFI Live, load this tune. Then, click File>Load alternate calibration for comparison and open the file that is in the car now. Then, click the red arrows <--> that light up on the top left of the program. That'll produce a list of differences.
I have to say though....if you're running open loop without a WBO2 hooked up, you're playing a dangerous game. Not knowing if you're running too lean isn't the kind of game you want to play IMO.
To do a comparison in EFI Live, load this tune. Then, click File>Load alternate calibration for comparison and open the file that is in the car now. Then, click the red arrows <--> that light up on the top left of the program. That'll produce a list of differences.
I have to say though....if you're running open loop without a WBO2 hooked up, you're playing a dangerous game. Not knowing if you're running too lean isn't the kind of game you want to play IMO.
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1999ssls1 - You'll also want to keep an eye on timing at WOT. If you're getting KR, 27* may be too much. Optimal timing needs to be found on a dyno. For you, it may be anywhere between 25* and 29*.
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Well, if you have the front set of O2's hooked up (and they're working right), you could try to run it in closed loop by putting the Closed Loop Temp Enable table back to stock and re-enable the LTFT's. I don't know if that'll work out too well for you though because the cam seems to have quite a bit of overlap in it. That means your O2's may interpret the unburnt oxygen in your exhaust as a lean condition, which will in turn cause the PCM to dump in extra fuel and make you too rich at idle or low rpm driving.