nomorews6

iTrader: (7)

I drove 20 minutes tonight - started it up and let it sit for a minute like I always do, then drove it - drove perfectly fine. Got out and talked with someone for 30-45 minutes and started it up. Started up fine again, but once I started going forward and started braking, it wouldn't idle and just died. I started it up again ... had some trouble but finally idled. I crept forward a bit and put on the brakes ... died again! This happened a few times and has happened to me in the past too. After those initial problems, I would drive it and it wouldn't have any problems at all. Driving the whole time from cold until shutting it down it would drive fine too ... is this a tuning issue?

Pheonix

iTrader: (16)

I'm in the same boat. I just sent my computer off. They have also told me it could be a vaccum leak. We will see when i get my computer back from wait4meperformance. I did not check to see if i had vaccum leaks but if it still does when i put the tunned comp on i will check it by spraying carb cleaner by the hoses and intake gaskets.

nomorews6

iTrader: (7)

does it drive perfectly for you when you start it up for the first time of the day? A typical problem for me could be this:

1pm - start it up - let it warm up for a minute and drive for 30 minutes. Zero issues.
1:30pm - shut the car down at my destination.
2:15pm - come back to the car, car starts up perfectly ... until I move forward and have to let off the gas. After a few minutes, the problem goes away and drives perfectly again.

Pheonix

iTrader: (16)

My car drives perfect when cold but once it gets hot it starts to want to die unless i give it gas. Then if i turn it off once its warm it turns right on but hunts for idle and it finally finds it after like a minute. But when i put it in gear it wants to die.

Weezzer

Clean the IAC valve.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

if the car has been tuned for the inital adjustments, the pCM will re-learn and then may have driveability issues those need to be addressed after the fact, a tuner can get a car if it be on a scale of 0% to 100% about 75% then the car will take back some of the adjustment and it goes to about 50%, then from there a tuner can take care of the rest and get it in the 90% range of being tuned.

To get it 100% dial, you need to drive it and data log it, some people call it street tuning.

nomorews6

iTrader: (7)

i don't know if this helps diagnose or anything, but the car was dyno tuned about 1 or 2 years ago. is it possible it still just needs a retune of some sort or could it be mechanical?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Before running to the dyno, its implied that the car should be running 100% mechanically.

nomorews6

iTrader: (7)

oh for sure - is there a way i can tell? I would think it would have to do with the tune but that is only because it runs great on startup all the way until i shut it off and leave it off for a half hour or so then come back to it

likemytaillites

yeah i would check for a vac leak first , if the car has a brake booster theres your leak !!!!????? disconnect the vac line that goes to the booster and plug it , and see if it dies out, it shouldnt same thing happen to me but with my trk

quick346

iTrader: (4)

My car did the same thing. sounds like it is not tuned for the cam. with a xr 281 my car would run great idle all day till you shut it off hot

Even just to run into a store. like it heat soaked. i would have to double foot that bitch for about 5 minute's then she would be idleing fine.

never figured it out or had it tuned. this last summer i ran a tr224 on a 114 with no issue's at all .same slp diablosport tune and all just went from a 112lsa 228/230 .587/.589 to a baby tr224

I put a afc 2.2 on it and it helped a ton but a good tuner should fix that like nothing

good luck