I drove 20 minutes tonight - started it up and let it sit for a minute like I always do, then drove it - drove perfectly fine. Got out and talked with someone for 30-45 minutes and started it up. Started up fine again, but once I started going forward and started braking, it wouldn't idle and just died. I started it up again ... had some trouble but finally idled. I crept forward a bit and put on the brakes ... died again! This happened a few times and has happened to me in the past too. After those initial problems, I would drive it and it wouldn't have any problems at all. Driving the whole time from cold until shutting it down it would drive fine too ... is this a tuning issue?

 

I'm in the same boat. I just sent my computer off. They have also told me it could be a vaccum leak. We will see when i get my computer back from wait4meperformance. I did not check to see if i had vaccum leaks but if it still does when i put the tunned comp on i will check it by spraying carb cleaner by the hoses and intake gaskets.

 

does it drive perfectly for you when you start it up for the first time of the day? A typical problem for me could be this:

1pm - start it up - let it warm up for a minute and drive for 30 minutes. Zero issues.
1:30pm - shut the car down at my destination.
2:15pm - come back to the car, car starts up perfectly ... until I move forward and have to let off the gas. After a few minutes, the problem goes away and drives perfectly again.

 

My car drives perfect when cold but once it gets hot it starts to want to die unless i give it gas. Then if i turn it off once its warm it turns right on but hunts for idle and it finally finds it after like a minute. But when i put it in gear it wants to die.

 

Clean the IAC valve.

 

if the car has been tuned for the inital adjustments, the pCM will re-learn and then may have driveability issues those need to be addressed after the fact, a tuner can get a car if it be on a scale of 0% to 100% about 75% then the car will take back some of the adjustment and it goes to about 50%, then from there a tuner can take care of the rest and get it in the 90% range of being tuned.

To get it 100% dial, you need to drive it and data log it, some people call it street tuning.

 

i don't know if this helps diagnose or anything, but the car was dyno tuned about 1 or 2 years ago. is it possible it still just needs a retune of some sort or could it be mechanical?

 

Before running to the dyno, its implied that the car should be running 100% mechanically.

 

oh for sure - is there a way i can tell? I would think it would have to do with the tune but that is only because it runs great on startup all the way until i shut it off and leave it off for a half hour or so then come back to it

 

yeah i would check for a vac leak first , if the car has a brake booster theres your leak !!!!????? disconnect the vac line that goes to the booster and plug it , and see if it dies out, it shouldnt same thing happen to me but with my trk

 

My car did the same thing. sounds like it is not tuned for the cam. with a xr 281 my car would run great idle all day till you shut it off hot

Even just to run into a store. like it heat soaked. i would have to double foot that bitch for about 5 minute's then she would be idleing fine.

never figured it out or had it tuned. this last summer i ran a tr224 on a 114 with no issue's at all .same slp diablosport tune and all just went from a 112lsa 228/230 .587/.589 to a baby tr224

I put a afc 2.2 on it and it helped a ton but a good tuner should fix that like nothing

good luck