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Lc1 Keeps Killnig Sensors

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Old 02-14-2008, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc
In most cases, yes.
If you have it grounded somewhere inside. Can you jsut do a large gauge jumper from the grounded point inside, through the firewall and to the back of the head?

I feel that would be a easier solution for me. Though mine hasn't acted up, im going to fix the problem before it happens.
Old 02-14-2008, 06:55 PM
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I would recommend just sending the whole ground to the cylinder heads. I am going to try and install my LC-1 this weekend and hope if I send both groundwires to the cylinder heads I will not have these problems.
Old 02-15-2008, 08:57 AM
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So Why Can The Lm1 Be Plugged Into The Cigrett Lighter And The Lc1 Need So Much Bs
Old 02-15-2008, 08:58 AM
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Instructions Say That You Need 2 Different Grounds
Old 02-15-2008, 09:17 AM
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The analog out ground has to be grounded to your datalogger ground.(Which gets it's ground via the data port which goes directly to the pcm ground.) The heater/system grounds need to goto the back of the head/engine block. This is easy on an Fbody, just go thru the passenger side kick panel where the rest of the wires go thru the firewall to the pcm.

The LM-1 is a fine product. It uses the same guts as the LC-1 for operation. The difference is you get the indicator box and power/ground isolation circuitry. It is the only current commercial stand alone wideband 02 that you can easily take from one vehicle to the next that I know of. I don't think it's worth it if you are datalogging just one vehicle but, some may want to use it as a gage to keep track of their A/F once the tune is done. In that case I would think a stand alone would be more esthetically pleasing. The least productive reason for buying an LM-1 would be to justify not being able to set up the LC-1 correctly.
Old 02-15-2008, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc
The analog out ground has to be grounded to your datalogger ground.(Which gets it's ground via the data port which goes directly to the pcm ground.) The heater/system grounds need to goto the back of the head/engine block. This is easy on an Fbody, just go thru the passenger side kick panel where the rest of the wires go thru the firewall to the pcm.

The LM-1 is a fine product. It uses the same guts as the LC-1 for operation. The difference is you get the indicator box and power/ground isolation circuitry. It is the only current commercial stand alone wideband 02 that you can easily take from one vehicle to the next that I know of. I don't think it's worth it if you are datalogging just one vehicle but, some may want to use it as a gage to keep track of their A/F once the tune is done. In that case I would think a stand alone would be more esthetically pleasing. The least productive reason for buying an LM-1 would be to justify not being able to set up the LC-1 correctly.
So using a jumper to the back of the head would be a no no?

So if thats the case i plan on getting a little "power block" with a post in it (much like under the hood of our cars/trucks), mounting it under the dash where all the lc1 wiring is, and running a large gauge wire from that post in the "block" to the back of the head. Ground everything there.

That sound kosher? lol
Old 02-16-2008, 11:05 PM
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Yep The Dam Thing Wont Get Hot.. When I Pulled The Sensor It Was Clearly Fouled... I Hooked It Up On The Test Bench And I Cant Get The Unit To Heat Up...

Can This Be Repaired?
Old 02-17-2008, 05:10 PM
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Thank God For The 1 Year Warrenty On Sensors At Autozone
Old 02-17-2008, 05:12 PM
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The Mor Ei Think About It I Just Think These Units Are Junk, If You Need Ground Isolation Circuitry To Mak It Work Right Then It Should Have Been Included.. I Know You Can Buy These Ground Filters Seeperate Or Like You Said Hook It To The Block But All Of These Are Really Just Ways Of Babying A Weak Product (imo)
Old 02-17-2008, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jpr5690
The Mor Ei Think About It I Just Think These Units Are Junk, If You Need Ground Isolation Circuitry To Mak It Work Right Then It Should Have Been Included.. I Know You Can Buy These Ground Filters Seeperate Or Like You Said Hook It To The Block But All Of These Are Really Just Ways Of Babying A Weak Product (imo)
You dont have to buy anything to make the kit work correctly, all you have to do is ground it properly, like everyone in this thread has been telling you
Old 02-18-2008, 09:46 AM
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No I Realise That... Its Just A Pita When It Could Be Alot Easier Had The Unit Been Better Desgined...

Btw... I Checked My Wireing (its Been A While Since I Installed It) 1 Ground Was A Body Ground And The Other Was Ran To The Bolt That The Holds The Grounding Strap For The Motor..

In My Instructions It Only Says That You Need 2 Seperate Grounds It Does Not Say You Need To Be Grounded To The Block (although Im Not Gonna Argue This Point)

I Believe My Problem Is As Always Has Been That My Unit Does Not Adaquately Heat The Sensors .. This Is Why The Sensors Read At First And Then Foul Out Shortly After


Thanks Everyone For Your Help... All I Need To Do Now Is Get This Dam Unit Fixed




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