TX RED

iTrader: (19)

my borther is getting 14miles to the gallon on his 05 gmc crew cab 4x4 what can i do to help him out

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

does he have any mods done to it? A nice intake and exhaust will help out.

TX RED

iTrader: (19)

no mods

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

get an intake, exhaust. and tune. its called decel fueling DFCO... there was a post up here or on efi live about tuning for it and using some slightly more aggressive values than stock, so that it doesn't use but just a tad of fuel on decel and in town can help slow you down so you don't have to use the brakes

its on efi live under general tuning i believe

Frost

iTrader: (45)

besides making DFCO work properly (which really helps) you can log and figure out the cruise airflow mode # and with a WIDEBAND, you can work the O2 switchpoint to lean out cruise fueling a bit as well. This may cause some heat in the cats though, I don't really know because all of the cars I have done this on don't have cats.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

+1
+1 There is a notable gain to be had by making DFCO more aggressive.

The best thing you can do to help him (FOR FREE) is to teach him how to drive! Sounds smart assed, but, all **** aside, driving for economy is much more difficult than it sounds.

• When you know you'll have to stop or slow down, start coasting way in advanced. When you meet the PCM's deceleration criteria, the PCM will turn off the fuel injectors saving your fuel while you stop. I like to refer to this method as "avoid using the brakes"
• Do not sit and let the engine idle. Adjust your schedule to avoid stop and go traffic. Do not go thru drive-thru lanes - park and go inside to get your burger. Avoid lengthy "warm up" cycles. IF THE VEHICLE IS STOPPED AND THE ENGINE IS RUNNING YOU GET 0 - ZERO - MILES PER GALLON
• When you accelerate, do so at a rate that is similar to the rate of accelleration when you resume a cruise control speed. Any slower, you're wasting gas. Any faster, you're wasting gas.
• Remove un-necessary stuff from the vehicle - Add Lightness. Brush guards, nerf bars, junk in the bed, all add weight and create more drag. If you don't need it, remove it.
• Slow Down! On my Dakota, there is a 1.2 mpg gain to be had by driving 62mph vs. 70mph. On a 30 mile trip, driving 62 vs 70 increases your travel time by 5.5 minutes. For a truck that gets 13 mpg, 1.2 mpg is a 9.2% gain in fuel economy. 5.5 minutes is a cheap price to pay for a hefty gain.
• Do not drive with the tail gate down - contrary to popular believe, a lowered tail gate INCREASES aerodynamic drag on a truck.

Other stuff you can do, but cost $$$

• Install a light weight bed cover
• Install a tailgate spoiler (believe it or not, the spoiler will generate downforce and reduce drag - this only works on trucks
• Lower the truck
• Install a lighter wheel/tire combo
• Install a free flowing intake and exaust system (only works if you keep your foot out of it)
• Electric water pump
• More effecient cylinder heads & higher compression
• The list goes on

Or you could just buy him a Toyota Yaris for daily driving.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

That is a really good write up, yo.

Just you forgot the tornado intake thing, fuel line magnets, ect.

JUST KIDDING!

The biggest factors are as he stated.

Don't hashly accel.

Coast as much as possible. Look ahead of the vehicle in front of you. Look far
down the road through the glass of other vehicles or traffic lamps above.

If your work has flextime get there 30 min later or earlier. That avoids most traffic where I am at.

Pick the slower route. Helps out alot if u have gears or a truck. I get at BARE MIN 2 MPG better on the highway (55) vs the interstate (70). With a slower route you have less air resistance and you dont have to speed up as much when someone makes a stop. In fact in the interstate I have to stop completely all the time but with the highway I rarely stop.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Replace the H, X, or Y, pipe with a U pipe

TX RED

iTrader: (19)

let me make some logs on his truck let se what comes up i told him to go ahead and get a CAI thank a lot guys

sreve

iTrader: (3)

oh thats just great now we have told another person how to **** me off on the way to
work. with his newly learned driving techniques he now gets 14.635454 mpg instead of 14mpg.
even the half ton crews are 4:10 6.0Ls 6000lbs add 4wd = **** poor milage. it is what it is, a gas hog.

also not trying to be a smart *** but i do not think he will ever be happy with the milage
at todays prices.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

Assuming the car is tuned correctly there isn't really a difference from a performance tune and a MPG tune. You just make the car run good.

You are wrong about your driving habits making a minimal effect on the fuel econ though.

I don't understand why 90% of Americans can't understand high school physics. Go fast, use more fuel. I guess there isn't a fuel crisis or more people would change the way they drive.

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

Stay in St. Louis and it shouldn't be a problem

!hijack

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

DFCO indeed does help TAQuickness, i was amazed at what a difference it makes as you stated.

ringram

I wouldnt waste money on exhaust and intake. How many tanks can you buy for the cost of all those parts?

Just make sure your intake filter is clean, do the free mods. You can also run a fully commanded fueling table and lean it out at part throttle.

Say run 15.4:1 instead of 14.7:1 thats a 5% saving right there.

Also keep your tyres pumped up, check spark plug gap and condition.

And try not to use the brakes, look well ahead and let the car slow naturally rather than dumping on the brakes all the time.

Coreyc619

i do all those things already as a driver anyhow, for one to treat my vehicle as good as possible, and two its safer to be surveying the road ahead to see when you can start coasting ahead of time and slowing early and all that jazz.. its just habit. start slowing early and you dont have to put wear and tear on your brakes, and also one of the things that was left out that i do alot, is i start slowing early in a clear lane of traffic, and rather than haulin *** up to a red light and slammin on the brakes like 99% of the rest of southeast texas, ill start coasting way back and carry my momentum through the light since they usually change at some point.. this works at least half the time if not better. not only do i pass that jackass in the next lane that "beat me in the race to.. the red light?", but i expend far less energy than him/her, and actually move along ahead of them quite a ways, save time on my trip, dont wear and tear on my parts.. you get the idea. but, as probably a few of the rest of you, i picked this up not from reading articles but just common sense.. but anyhow on to my point.

i had a 96 cobra with all the bolt ons, literally, ALL the boltons. anyhow it had 4.10s in the rear (no torque from little 281 w/b heads) and it didnt matter if i drove 80 or 60, believe me i tried when i did my hurricane evacuation for rita(i tried other times after this to confirm because this blew my mind). i went 55 once we kinda got out of the traffic(long story, but my evacuation was a two day journey, and i started finding open highway the second day, on a full tank of gas from the night before) and calculated my fuel milage when i got to dallas from toledo bend reservoir.. it was literally the same as it always was.. 22mpg give or take a decimal or two. so all that slow *** painful driving for nothing. also another weird thing about that car.. with 3.27s i averaged 17, with 410s i averaged 19.5.. yes i had the speedo corrected. on the hwy tho 3.27s would net 24 sometimes even 25mpg when it was mildly modified, but the 4.10s never did better than 22.. ever.

**another thing to consider. windows down 35 mph and down (roughly) and windows up on the highway, again to do with air drag. you will actually be more efficient pushing through the air (at high speeds anyway) with the parasitic loss of the AC and the windows up, thand the AC off and windows down.

the tailgate thing.. one episode of myth busters and everybody changes their opinion. i think it depends on the truck.. that old hag in my sig averages about 7mpg city and 12 or so on the hwy (thank the lord for tremec vs the old 3 on the tree).. i let the tailgate down on the way home from the beach and drove 85 all the way home.. guess what? 18mpg with a 45 degree or so crosswind from the tail (which undoubtedly helped.. but 6 mpg? it wasnt a hurricane from the tail..)

all im saying, as per my observations (and i am obsurdly observant, and constantly experimenting with all kinds of stupid little details that most people dont even think about) there are situations where "conventional wisdom" is horsecrap.

but i do agree with the above suggestions nearly unanimously, but not quite

also, i have a little more insight than most people on the load placed on engine and what saves and conserves than most.. i think lol. we've had two prius's (the hybrid toyota) and they have a touch screen that shows when you are using the engine, the electric motor, when you are pulling energy from coasting to charge the battery etc. so me being able to watch that screen while driving provided a lot of insight as to what hitting the pedal, coasting early, blah blah all that actually does for you. interesting.

we put a k&n and a fart pipe on the first one, it was hillarious(embrassaing?) to say the least.. gas milage was about the same, but showed a wee bit better at hwy speeds.