SHIT LOST COMM DURING PROGRAMING.
#2
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well.. if you can get the car to a dealership they can reflash it for like 50 bux (that's what I did when I killed mine the first time)
Also may wanna look into a spare PCM... they're 150 or so from valvegod
Also may wanna look into a spare PCM... they're 150 or so from valvegod
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MY car is now stuck at work. I called the dealer ships and they all said they need me to bring them the car. So it will be about 50 for the towing and 80 for the vin flash. This sucks.
Where is Carputing located at. If i have to mail them my computer it will take over a week before my car runs again.
Where is Carputing located at. If i have to mail them my computer it will take over a week before my car runs again.
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I don't think Carputing repairs 96s. I do, and I know Ion (at http://www.madz28.com/repair.php ) does as well. You might try him first, tho, as I'm backed up right now and it could take a few days...
The other thing is, if the PCM is not communicating, a dealership very well may not be able to fix it. This is a special process (see http://www.mindspring.com/~amattei/flashfix.htm ).
-Andrew
The other thing is, if the PCM is not communicating, a dealership very well may not be able to fix it. This is a special process (see http://www.mindspring.com/~amattei/flashfix.htm ).
-Andrew
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I work at an Eni and I am able to do surface mount soldering no problem. But i got to questions
1. what type of chip do i need and where do i get it, Does the chip need to be programed before it gets installed . and how do you do that.
2. where do i get the socket.(acutaly i problaby have some in our stock room at work.
thanks for the help
1. what type of chip do i need and where do i get it, Does the chip need to be programed before it gets installed . and how do you do that.
2. where do i get the socket.(acutaly i problaby have some in our stock room at work.
thanks for the help
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Nothing wrong with the chips that are on there. THey're perfectly fine. You don't have to socket, you can remove the chip, clean the leads, reprogram the chip with a raw binary (using an EPROM programmer), and you're back up and running.
You haven't mentioned OBDI or OBDII, but I have raw binaries on my web site at:
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd1-t.bin
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd1-e.bin
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd2-t.bin
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd2-e.bin
T is the blue/gray board, E is the black/red board (PCM connector colors). You may have to do only one, or both of them.
Once you get the chip off, cleaned, programmed, and soldered back on, you will need to reprogram the PCM using your LT1Edit setup. These binaries are intended *just* to get the PCM to start talking again.
Compare your PCM to a desktop computer. Currently, the hard disk (the chips) are blank since the software didn't get installed properly. All you need to do is reinstall the operating system and you're back up and running.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
This does not impact the VIN in your PCM at all (in case you were wondering).
Good luck,
Andrew
You haven't mentioned OBDI or OBDII, but I have raw binaries on my web site at:
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd1-t.bin
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd1-e.bin
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd2-t.bin
http://www.akmcables.com/Obd2-e.bin
T is the blue/gray board, E is the black/red board (PCM connector colors). You may have to do only one, or both of them.
Once you get the chip off, cleaned, programmed, and soldered back on, you will need to reprogram the PCM using your LT1Edit setup. These binaries are intended *just* to get the PCM to start talking again.
Compare your PCM to a desktop computer. Currently, the hard disk (the chips) are blank since the software didn't get installed properly. All you need to do is reinstall the operating system and you're back up and running.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
This does not impact the VIN in your PCM at all (in case you were wondering).
Good luck,
Andrew
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andrew you are the man.
Let me make sure i got the hole process correct
1. take old chips of computer
2. clean , then reprogram
3. re-install
My car is an ob2 so what soft ware do i need. Im pumped this means ill be able to fix this tommorow right at work. We have a programer right here that we use to program all of our control bds in our rf powered generators.
I see 4 diffenrt links to the binaries. I need them all in one file in order for this to work. Dude once again thanks for the help.
Micah
Let me make sure i got the hole process correct
1. take old chips of computer
2. clean , then reprogram
3. re-install
My car is an ob2 so what soft ware do i need. Im pumped this means ill be able to fix this tommorow right at work. We have a programer right here that we use to program all of our control bds in our rf powered generators.
I see 4 diffenrt links to the binaries. I need them all in one file in order for this to work. Dude once again thanks for the help.
Micah
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This does not impact the VIN in your PCM at all (in case you were wondering).
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OK, there are 2 chips. Depending on where your programming failed is which chip to pull.
Above 40%, pull the Intel Flash chip off of the blue/gray board. It is a 28F010 (but not marked as such). Download the file Obd2-t.bin and program the chip with that file in the EPROM programmer. Reinstall the chip and try to READ the PCM. If it reads, then program it.
Below 40%, or if it doesn't read, then pull the Intel Flash chip off of the Red/Black board. It is a 28F512. Program that chip with the Obd2-e.bin file that I have above.
Ignore the Obd1-t and -e files up there.
And Vince, the VIN is stored in a 'secure' area of the microprocessor, along with a unique hardware identifier (PCM serial number, if you will).
Hope that helps,
Andrew
Above 40%, pull the Intel Flash chip off of the blue/gray board. It is a 28F010 (but not marked as such). Download the file Obd2-t.bin and program the chip with that file in the EPROM programmer. Reinstall the chip and try to READ the PCM. If it reads, then program it.
Below 40%, or if it doesn't read, then pull the Intel Flash chip off of the Red/Black board. It is a 28F512. Program that chip with the Obd2-e.bin file that I have above.
Ignore the Obd1-t and -e files up there.
And Vince, the VIN is stored in a 'secure' area of the microprocessor, along with a unique hardware identifier (PCM serial number, if you will).
Hope that helps,
Andrew
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ok i got my computer apart right now. got another question how many times can these things be re-flashed and how much heat can they take. i know that the heat can kill these things. should i use some type of heat sink on the componet
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i have th ered/black side open right now and im not 100 percent sure what chip it is . I looked on the site and it shows the other side blue/grey. Is it the same chip just on the other side. So that would make it the upper most right chip on the bd with the connectors facing you. I will wait to make sure before i take anything off
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20 seconds with an 800 degree heat gun is all it takes to get the chip off. You can kill the chip with heat, but it shouldn't be a problem if you have the right equipment. I don't use any heat sinks.
On the red/black board, the Intel Flash chip (look for the label, it should also say 28F512AN on it). It's towards the center of the board, not on the edge like the blue/gray. It's the only Intel Flash chip on the board. That's the one you need.
The 2 chips are different. The blue/gray is a 1 Mbit 28F010, the red/black is a 512kbit 28F512.
-Andrew
On the red/black board, the Intel Flash chip (look for the label, it should also say 28F512AN on it). It's towards the center of the board, not on the edge like the blue/gray. It's the only Intel Flash chip on the board. That's the one you need.
The 2 chips are different. The blue/gray is a 1 Mbit 28F010, the red/black is a 512kbit 28F512.
-Andrew
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OK GOT THE CHIPS OF. AND I GOT THE SOCKETS HERE AT WORK. ONE PROBLEM. THEY DID NOT MARK ON THE BD THE POLARITY.
RED BLACK---THE DOT ON THE CHIP SHOULD FACE WHAT WAY WITH THE CONNECTORS FACING YOU, LEFT RIGHT UP OR DOWN.
I FIGURED OUT THE BLUE GREY BUY THE PICS ON YOUR SITE.
..
iF YOU CAN HELP ME ON THIS ONE I SHOULD BE ALL SET. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP BUD.
mICAH
RED BLACK---THE DOT ON THE CHIP SHOULD FACE WHAT WAY WITH THE CONNECTORS FACING YOU, LEFT RIGHT UP OR DOWN.
I FIGURED OUT THE BLUE GREY BUY THE PICS ON YOUR SITE.
..
iF YOU CAN HELP ME ON THIS ONE I SHOULD BE ALL SET. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP BUD.
mICAH
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ok i got the sockets on and the chips cleaned and ready for a new flash. I went to the programer here at work and selected on the file you gave me to load. But then it wanted me to select a program to use to flash the info. And i have no such program. Is thier a way to make on or do you have on Andrew. Im so close to being done. It would suck to have it all end here . Thanks in advance for any info.
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Huh?
OK, chips are clean and ready to go in the EPROM programmer. I use a Needhams EMP-10. I fire up the Needhams EMP-10 software, select my chip, select the .bin file (no special format, just binary), load the bin file in to the programmer's software, erase the chip, and then flash the chip with the bin file.
Are you saying that you don't have the software to run the EPROM programmer? If you don't, unfortunately I can't help with that piece... You've got to erase the chips (standard function in any programmer for a flash chip), and then load that file / program it in there...
-Andrew
OK, chips are clean and ready to go in the EPROM programmer. I use a Needhams EMP-10. I fire up the Needhams EMP-10 software, select my chip, select the .bin file (no special format, just binary), load the bin file in to the programmer's software, erase the chip, and then flash the chip with the bin file.
Are you saying that you don't have the software to run the EPROM programmer? If you don't, unfortunately I can't help with that piece... You've got to erase the chips (standard function in any programmer for a flash chip), and then load that file / program it in there...
-Andrew
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ok i think i know what i did wrong. ill try again. And let you know tommorow if it all worked. Thanks again bud.
Micah
Micah