Tuning and Drivabilty ISSUE*****
Tuning and Drivabilty ISSUE***** Hey guys I just had my car tuned by a well known tuner. The car runs good when you are driving around, but when say your coming up to a light or stop sign you push the clutch in the car wants to die and 80% of the time it does die if i dont play with the throttle. What could this be? Should I switch tuners or does anyone have any ideas? heres a rundown of whats done to the car:
2000 Trans Am 6spd stock clutch:
-232/234 .624/.590 112
-Dart 225 Fully ported heads with a .040 head gasket 11.25 comp.
-Ported Fast 92mm intake, Fast 92mm Throttle body, 85mm Delphi Maf
-Stock Fuel pump....Could it be a bad fuel pump, he said it was fine throughout the rpm's fuel pressure wise
-42lb svo green top injector
2000 Trans Am 6spd stock clutch:
-232/234 .624/.590 112
-Dart 225 Fully ported heads with a .040 head gasket 11.25 comp.
-Ported Fast 92mm intake, Fast 92mm Throttle body, 85mm Delphi Maf
-Stock Fuel pump....Could it be a bad fuel pump, he said it was fine throughout the rpm's fuel pressure wise
-42lb svo green top injector
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,932
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From: CT
Decel Fuel Cut Off setting possibly???
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
Def in the tune. Dont know about an easy fix, it could be alot of things. Everything from the VE being off, to the idle air flow being off, to the blade needing a bigger hole. Any or all of the above.
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The fast 92mm doesnt have a hole in the blade i dont believe, i heard of people drilling a 7/16 hole in the blade but i dont wanna do that and have it screw up the expense *** throttle body. I mean the car ran fine when i had my old ported ls6 and throttle body and now i changed to my new fast and i am haven this problem after the tune, so its gotta be in the tune but where!?!?!? VE table?????. I guess i am kinda tryin to get an idea to what it may be or if others are haven this problem so the tuner can look in that area
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Verdad Gallardo The fast 92mm doesnt have a hole in the blade i dont believe, i heard of people drilling a 7/16 hole in the blade but i dont wanna do that and have it screw up the expense *** throttle body. I mean the car ran fine when i had my old ported ls6 and throttle body and now i changed to my new fast and i am haven this problem after the tune, so its gotta be in the tune but where!?!?!? VE table?????. I guess i am kinda tryin to get an idea to what it may be or if others are haven this problem so the tuner can look in that area
I've tuned many, many cars, that once you get evrything else right, you dont even need to touch the throttle cracker or throttle follower tables. Then again, some of them need a bit of tweaking.
Well, my experience is that with the problem he described, stalling when coming to a stop, it is best fixed with the cracker table or once in awhile the follower table. That way you are not jacking up the idle air counts at static idle. Once I get the static idle (sitting still) straight, I do not touch the TB hole or the running airflow tables any more. Any idle work that needs adjustment when the car is moving should be made in the cracker or follower depending on exactly what is happening. Works for me time after time...
Well, my experience is that with the problem he described, stalling when coming to a stop, it is best fixed with the cracker table or once in awhile the follower table. That way you are not jacking up the idle air counts at static idle. Once I get the static idle (sitting still) straight, I do not touch the TB hole or the running airflow tables any more. Any idle work that needs adjustment when the car is moving should be made in the cracker or follower depending on exactly what is happening. Works for me time after time...
I do the same. Mentioned in another thread is bucking.... if the idle airflow is good, the VE is done, and the car bucks it's usually airflow after throttle from the cracker causing it.
I also have this issue with my SS....have not tweeked it yet but I have a truck that is just the opposite.....It has an ls1 with a 228/230 585/585 and it races the engine once your moving and pushes you up to a stop light until you make a complete stop. I was told from a tuner that the throttle cracker tables will not affect a truck or an f-body.....only affects the Corvette's, IS THIS CORRECT?
Both of the LS1 vehicles I have now drive like complete crap on the street and I regret ever doing a cam in either one of them.....I have my own tuning software but Have never changed anything simply because I am afraid of screwing up. I have the JET DSM tuner I would love to have some help in tuning these two vehicles but dont have the time to set and read or set and ask questions.....while on the other hand, my professional tuner will change a parameter or two and say "that should be good" and he is done and I am still unhappy.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY JET FILES THAT I CAN COMPARE TO MY FILES SO I CAN TRY SOME DIFFERENT THINGS?
Both of the LS1 vehicles I have now drive like complete crap on the street and I regret ever doing a cam in either one of them.....I have my own tuning software but Have never changed anything simply because I am afraid of screwing up. I have the JET DSM tuner I would love to have some help in tuning these two vehicles but dont have the time to set and read or set and ask questions.....while on the other hand, my professional tuner will change a parameter or two and say "that should be good" and he is done and I am still unhappy.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY JET FILES THAT I CAN COMPARE TO MY FILES SO I CAN TRY SOME DIFFERENT THINGS?
I also have this issue with my SS....have not tweeked it yet but I have a truck that is just the opposite.....It has an ls1 with a 228/230 585/585 and it races the engine once your moving and pushes you up to a stop light until you make a complete stop. I was told from a tuner that the throttle cracker tables will not affect a truck or an f-body.....only affects the Corvette's, IS THIS CORRECT?
Both of the LS1 vehicles I have now drive like complete crap on the street and I regret ever doing a cam in either one of them.....I have my own tuning software but Have never changed anything simply because I am afraid of screwing up. I have the JET DSM tuner I would love to have some help in tuning these two vehicles but dont have the time to set and read or set and ask questions.....while on the other hand, my professional tuner will change a parameter or two and say "that should be good" and he is done and I am still unhappy.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY JET FILES THAT I CAN COMPARE TO MY FILES SO I CAN TRY SOME DIFFERENT THINGS?
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY JET FILES THAT I CAN COMPARE TO MY FILES SO I CAN TRY SOME DIFFERENT THINGS?
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: SW Virginia
Jeeshhh. I can't stand it. You guys are all over the map. Bigrob339's solution is to increase the final idle airflow table in the lower RPMs.
Adaptive idle and integral idle to reduce the throttle hanging effect of carfreak07. I'm outta here!
Adaptive idle and integral idle to reduce the throttle hanging effect of carfreak07. I'm outta here!
A nailed down RAF is a good starting point but doesn't fix every thing and not everyone tunes the same.