driver side blinker keeps burning out
03-25-2009, 03:13 PM
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driver side blinker keeps burning out hey guys im not sure why but my driver side front blinker light keeps burning out so when i turn my blinker on none of the left side blinks. but when i have the day time running lights on my driver side is on. i've replaced this bulb 3 times in the past 2 weeks and it works fine for a few days then it burns out. its on my 98 trans am by the way. so any thoughts? thanks!!
03-25-2009, 04:00 PM
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The ones on my CETA haven't worked in two years. I gotta replace the sockets when I get back to the states. Have to get new housing too since they have fogged up
03-27-2009, 06:03 PM
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the socket looks alittle messed up but not cracked or anything...how hard is it to replace the socket? and where do i get one from? do i have to cut any wires and re-solder
03-27-2009, 08:04 PM
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They aren't that bad, just cut and rewire like you said.
WS6store.com has the sockets for $53 each
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1741
The damn housings are only $38 each, why in the hell is the wiring and socket more. That doesn't make a bit of sense
WS6store.com has the sockets for $53 each
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1741
The damn housings are only $38 each, why in the hell is the wiring and socket more. That doesn't make a bit of sense
03-28-2009, 11:33 AM
#7
You can get the replacement sockets at AZ waaaaay cheaper.
Click this link and scroll down to my post. It offers a permanent fix.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...ing-water.html
Click this link and scroll down to my post. It offers a permanent fix.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...ing-water.html
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03-29-2009, 08:20 AM
#10
03-29-2009, 08:23 AM
#11
cause my daytime running light on the driver side is not coming on but when i turn the lights on then it turns on in the dimmer mode but i can not use my left turn signal cause when i do my taillight lights up but not the front blinker and it does not blink. so the brighter part of the light is not working just the dim mode of it and i replaced the bulb already so its not that. i assume its the socket, does this sound right??????
03-29-2009, 11:27 AM
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ya same problem here bro. so ya im going to try the socket thing first and i need new side markers too are they 38 a piece from ws6store?? kinda pricy
03-29-2009, 12:04 PM
#13
get a new socket from autozone. Spend $8 on the socket, $2 on dieletric grease, and $3 for a pair of new bulbs. Theres a write up on ls2gto that I followed; ill see if i can find it for you. If not, ill give you a little write up of how i did mine. It takes no skill at all.
03-29-2009, 12:27 PM
#14
this is the write up you need:
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...threadid=15143
this is what the turn signal socket/drl socket looks like. Dont buy it from this site, just use it as a reference. Autozone/Advance Auto sells these sockets for $8 in the bulb aisle. Its made by Dorman; I believe it says Pontiac/Bonneville Tail Lamp socket. Its gray in color and had 3 wires protruding from it.
http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racep...howdc=true#top
From my install of these, note the color of the wires as it corresponds the the A,B,and C marks on the socket. Take apart your new socket first so you get the idea of how your old one comes apart. I had to tear mine old socket to bits with a needlenose pliers before I was able to the wires out. Wetsand the corrosion off the terminals, uses dieletric grease, and put your new socket back together on the car. Make sure you disconnect your battery! I connected 2 of the wires and blew the fuse from my HVAC and gauge lights! If you need anymore help, let me know.
AS QUOTED FROM LS2.COM
As many of you know, the daytime running lights, and turn signals, on the Trans Am's are not the best designed lights. The heat likes to damage the sockets, and the paper thin lense is easily cracked by road debris. With the lamp socket at the bottom of the housing, to collect the water that enters.
Many people end up with turn signal issues due to these lights, and the sockets going bad.
Well, i had such an issue this week, and decided now was the time to replace the socket, (since i have many extras from a taillight wiring harness in the garage)
The parts needed are a 3 wire lamp holder, the stock one is a PED piece, with the numbers PED FL 2914 used in many GM cars and trucks. The back taillights use 4 of these sockets, so i was able to get one from there, you can get them from the dealer, or junk yard im sure, price unknown.
First thing you will notice is the heat damage on this socket.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...ctorburned.jpg
To remove the inside from the outside gray housing, push on the 2 tabs, and pull with needle nose pliers. One of the tabs are shown in this pic from my spare housings.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...shtoremove.jpg
you want to push those, pull the inside connector out, and then slide the 3 wires out, then you are left with your new socket for installation onto the car.
Next step, go to car:
After taking the bottom access cover bolts out, i got a pair of needle nose pliers, and tried to remove the inside from the housing, by pushing the 2 tabs, and pulling the inside out.. with the damage that was done, this was not able to pull out, like on the new sockets i had.
So, i just broke it until the inside would come out, as shown here.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...rokenapart.jpg
after removing the inside socket assembly, the 3 wires pull right out.
the pinouts on my 98 TA are: A blue B Brown, and G Black. Im fairly sure all of the 98-02 share this color code.
Once the connector slides off, you are left with this
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...yconnector.jpg
taking some sandpaper, clean up the connections, if you have any electrical contact cleaner, now would be a good time to use it.
When you done, it should at least look like this, or cleaner
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...rescleaned.jpg
After you clean the connectors, it is now time to reseal the cable seals in dielectric grease, and slide into the connector, (remember the order, and colors from above)
When your done, it should look like this:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...tassembled.jpg
after you get to this step, slide in the inside portion, to secure the wires into the connector. When done, it should look stock, and new, like this:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsignalfix/finished.jpg
When you done, install lamp, and reinstall into the housing, test with both the turnsignals, and the hazards, lights on, and off, to ensure proper operation.
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...threadid=15143
this is what the turn signal socket/drl socket looks like. Dont buy it from this site, just use it as a reference. Autozone/Advance Auto sells these sockets for $8 in the bulb aisle. Its made by Dorman; I believe it says Pontiac/Bonneville Tail Lamp socket. Its gray in color and had 3 wires protruding from it.
http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racep...howdc=true#top
From my install of these, note the color of the wires as it corresponds the the A,B,and C marks on the socket. Take apart your new socket first so you get the idea of how your old one comes apart. I had to tear mine old socket to bits with a needlenose pliers before I was able to the wires out. Wetsand the corrosion off the terminals, uses dieletric grease, and put your new socket back together on the car. Make sure you disconnect your battery! I connected 2 of the wires and blew the fuse from my HVAC and gauge lights! If you need anymore help, let me know.
AS QUOTED FROM LS2.COM
As many of you know, the daytime running lights, and turn signals, on the Trans Am's are not the best designed lights. The heat likes to damage the sockets, and the paper thin lense is easily cracked by road debris. With the lamp socket at the bottom of the housing, to collect the water that enters.
Many people end up with turn signal issues due to these lights, and the sockets going bad.
Well, i had such an issue this week, and decided now was the time to replace the socket, (since i have many extras from a taillight wiring harness in the garage)
The parts needed are a 3 wire lamp holder, the stock one is a PED piece, with the numbers PED FL 2914 used in many GM cars and trucks. The back taillights use 4 of these sockets, so i was able to get one from there, you can get them from the dealer, or junk yard im sure, price unknown.
First thing you will notice is the heat damage on this socket.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...ctorburned.jpg
To remove the inside from the outside gray housing, push on the 2 tabs, and pull with needle nose pliers. One of the tabs are shown in this pic from my spare housings.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...shtoremove.jpg
you want to push those, pull the inside connector out, and then slide the 3 wires out, then you are left with your new socket for installation onto the car.
Next step, go to car:
After taking the bottom access cover bolts out, i got a pair of needle nose pliers, and tried to remove the inside from the housing, by pushing the 2 tabs, and pulling the inside out.. with the damage that was done, this was not able to pull out, like on the new sockets i had.
So, i just broke it until the inside would come out, as shown here.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...rokenapart.jpg
after removing the inside socket assembly, the 3 wires pull right out.
the pinouts on my 98 TA are: A blue B Brown, and G Black. Im fairly sure all of the 98-02 share this color code.
Once the connector slides off, you are left with this
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...yconnector.jpg
taking some sandpaper, clean up the connections, if you have any electrical contact cleaner, now would be a good time to use it.
When you done, it should at least look like this, or cleaner
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...rescleaned.jpg
After you clean the connectors, it is now time to reseal the cable seals in dielectric grease, and slide into the connector, (remember the order, and colors from above)
When your done, it should look like this:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsigna...tassembled.jpg
after you get to this step, slide in the inside portion, to secure the wires into the connector. When done, it should look stock, and new, like this:
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/taturnsignalfix/finished.jpg
When you done, install lamp, and reinstall into the housing, test with both the turnsignals, and the hazards, lights on, and off, to ensure proper operation.
03-29-2009, 03:41 PM
#16
its a direct fit. it calls for 3157 bulbs which is the same i think. It took me about 20 min per socket.
If you have a trans am, pop the headlights first then pull the battery. If you remove the trim around the headlights, you'll have enough slack in the wire to work on it outside of the car standing up; if you do it through the access hole in the mudflap, theres barley enough room and you have to do everything on your back with the car jacked up.
If you have a trans am, pop the headlights first then pull the battery. If you remove the trim around the headlights, you'll have enough slack in the wire to work on it outside of the car standing up; if you do it through the access hole in the mudflap, theres barley enough room and you have to do everything on your back with the car jacked up.
07-18-2009, 08:56 PM
#18
Great info slayerized6...I had been putting this off for sometime because I thought I had to cut and sodder wires together and was just too lazy. When I took my driver's side out, it was burnt and smelled horrible, luckily the connectors at the ends of the wires were ok after some sanding. Took less than 20 min and light works perfectly again.
08-02-2009, 01:46 AM
#19
I had a similar problem with my front DRLs. Water was getting in them and shorting out the bulb. Replaced housings with ebay direct replacement housings for much cheaper that ws6store offers.
Also, I did a similar fix for my rear side markers (both sides were burned out at the socket).
Here's my write-up.
http://www.fbodyonline.com/forum/f18...emarkers-4105/
Pretty easy.
Also, I did a similar fix for my rear side markers (both sides were burned out at the socket).
Here's my write-up.
http://www.fbodyonline.com/forum/f18...emarkers-4105/
Pretty easy.
08-02-2009, 09:23 AM
#20
Before you replace the socket, just replace the bulb and use a dielectric great in the socket. My driver's side DRL would burn out everytime it rained. The bulb would have a hole in it where it blew out. I filled the socket with dielectric grease then installed a new bulb and it hasn't blown out since.
Even if you go ahead and replace the socket, be sure to use dielectric grease to keep the problem from returning.
Even if you go ahead and replace the socket, be sure to use dielectric grease to keep the problem from returning.
