Looking to buy, '02 WS-6, 104K
12-14-2012, 08:56 PM
#21
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Sounds like you got your basics covered. After you get all that work done to it a mail order tune will be good for more power and slight better mpg. Do you have to worry about emissions ?
12-15-2012, 02:04 AM
#22
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12-16-2012, 12:30 AM
#23
Alright, I confirmed that it is an actual WS6 by taking a look at the RPO sticker. Is $8K a price that would be wise bargaining too? I think it's what I'm gonna aim for fingers crossed.
Mod wise, if I've got it right, the basics are Lid, L/T's, Y pipe, Catback. These cars are super cost friendly to mod as opposed to my challenger.
Mod wise, if I've got it right, the basics are Lid, L/T's, Y pipe, Catback. These cars are super cost friendly to mod as opposed to my challenger.
I seen some get doors swap as well
Well from pictures the engine looks clean but, what about the rest?
8.5k is lower than what it should be so take advantage of it.
Where in Florida?
I am in central Florida
Good luck
12-16-2012, 11:45 AM
#24
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I paid $6500 for my 99 T/A with 100,2xx miles on it and it had a cam, full exhaust, rebuilt rear, tune, and several other bolt-ons along with a full stereo. I think there are better deals to be had than the one you are looking at...
12-16-2012, 03:52 PM
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^^^I'd bet that alot of people will pay a little more for a stock, or close to stock car over a modded one especially when the cars are in the 100K miles+ area...at least I would.
12-16-2012, 04:25 PM
#26
Looks clean! I had a 98 TA and drove it past 220K miles before it was rear-ended. Sold it to a friend and he is still running it. LS1 is a tough engine for sure. Water pumps, Power steering, Idle pulley, rear end if you drive hard, all can be issues, but 12-14 year old muscle cars can't be expected to run on factory parts forever. If the color and appearance are good and you can swap parts, then I feel $8-8.5K sounds fair.
12-18-2012, 03:25 PM
#27
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I'm close to 100k on my 02' and to this point I've only replaced one headlight motor, both window motors and the rear axle, which was just being ground on by the ball bearings and making an annoying scraping noise while driving.
The drivers lights are notorious for blowing out. The casing gets cracks in it from the heat over time, and eventually moisture makes its way in, causing it to blow the bulb. Invest in new ones if they are cracked, or do what I do: seal the bulb with silicone sealant. Both of my door panels have the common crack, but it's not very noticeable. The dash cracked pretty good (Florida heat), so either liberally use a sun screen or expect that to go Grand Canyon on you at some point.
Something else to look at closely, which may get you some bargaining power, is the sail panel recall. Basically, the adhesive they use to hold it down (behind the t-tops and down the sides) will seep through the paint via small bubbles which is a result of heat. Mine are very hard to notice, but they are there. Look at it from an even level to be sure. Repaints do NOT fix this. Only a better adhesive, and it's not easy to replace.
The real weak point for track use is the 10 bolt rear-end. If he hooks the tires, kiss it goodbye at some point. It's better to keep the street tires on and let them spin a little to avoid damage.
That engine looks pretty clean. Looks like whoever owned it took care of it.
The drivers lights are notorious for blowing out. The casing gets cracks in it from the heat over time, and eventually moisture makes its way in, causing it to blow the bulb. Invest in new ones if they are cracked, or do what I do: seal the bulb with silicone sealant. Both of my door panels have the common crack, but it's not very noticeable. The dash cracked pretty good (Florida heat), so either liberally use a sun screen or expect that to go Grand Canyon on you at some point.
Something else to look at closely, which may get you some bargaining power, is the sail panel recall. Basically, the adhesive they use to hold it down (behind the t-tops and down the sides) will seep through the paint via small bubbles which is a result of heat. Mine are very hard to notice, but they are there. Look at it from an even level to be sure. Repaints do NOT fix this. Only a better adhesive, and it's not easy to replace.
The real weak point for track use is the 10 bolt rear-end. If he hooks the tires, kiss it goodbye at some point. It's better to keep the street tires on and let them spin a little to avoid damage.
That engine looks pretty clean. Looks like whoever owned it took care of it.
12-18-2012, 04:48 PM
#28
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the car definitely looks all stock and is VERY clean based on the engine bay pictures
at a dealership the price of 9800 is a little too high because of all the extras you have to pay for but I would think 8500-9000 is a fair price for a WS6 in good shape
obviously, there are great deals out there if you look long enough
at a dealership the price of 9800 is a little too high because of all the extras you have to pay for but I would think 8500-9000 is a fair price for a WS6 in good shape
obviously, there are great deals out there if you look long enough
12-29-2012, 09:07 AM
#30
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Just speaking in general terms about all cars with 100,000+ miles. Our LS1 cars are no different. Window motors, headlight gears, the list is endless... I mention a/c because the cost is so expensive to fix them if you can't do it yourself. Things just start going south as the mileage and use increases, and especially after 6 figures show on the odometer. Some high mileage cars are just wonderful but most will start having issues of some type. As far as the drivetrain goes there are quite a few owners that get 150,000 - 200,000 miles on their machines. Those are obviously well maintained cars since they left the showroom. This is where the going gets tough as a buyer. If you can't get the maintenance records, it becomes a crap shoot, so it is best to limit your liabilities and get a lower mileage example, preferably 'stock' with not too many owners.
I disagree, cars are not like they use to be where at 100K you have to replace a bunch of stuff.....LS1's are GREAT motors are and will last a long time when there are kept up...OP I think its great that you are taking care of your brother speaks volumes on the type person you are....Just do like everyone here has been saying listen to the engine run at idle, give it some revs and make sure you dont hear any noises and take it on a good test drive. Look for any dash lights and run a carfax to see if its been in a accident...Looks like a clean ride, oh and have fun in your new ride...
01-03-2013, 09:30 PM
#31
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wish u was near kentucky...id sell ya my 98 ws6 for the same price...mines a 98 black ws6 with 74k miles...has 6 speed and every option u could get on it,and a new kenwood system,,i saved the factory stuff as well...has frame ties, upgraded suspension and a slp air lid..other than that its bone stop..has 17in ws6 rims also comes with a extra set of chrome torque thrust 2s 17x11 with 315s rear and 17x9.5 fronts....were im at everyone wants trucks or tuner cars..since iv gotten my 70 roadrunner i only drive it a few times a month...
