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I know this isn't the "proper way" but in a pinch what's worked for me is get a torx head that you dont care too much about at a size that barely doesn't fit, put it on an extension and tap it with a mallet until it bites into the head of the hex. Back it out and replace with a new screw.
Awesome progress love seeing lifters.
yeah, it's not a proper hex per se, not even that type, it's more a traditional bolt head, but like 22 mm size (though 22 doesn't fit quite right), google it and take a look, it's weird. Let me know if you have any ideas on it
yeah, it's not a proper hex per se, not even that type, it's more a traditional bolt head, but like 22 mm size (though 22 doesn't fit quite right), google it and take a look, it's weird. Let me know if you have any ideas on it
Oh reading fail on my part lol. Have you tried a turbo socket? Sears sells them and they're made for getting out rounded bolt heads.
http://youtu.be/5ZP05y32aJw
I didn't know about them until like a year ago when my roommate's lug nut wouldn't come off. Sure enough after seeing a YouTube video I went to Sears and viola!
looks great! and i bet it sounds great with the headers. My ls1 purrs nice but in my opinion the lt motors sound better
They're not on yet sadly, after i get the exhaust cut off (tomorrow i'm thinking) then i'll probably get to doing the mounts and tackling the headers.
Got most the valvetrain out today, didn't get to the springs, but lifters, pushrods, and rockers are all out. Got a few other things out on my way down to the cam, still fighting the stupid Knock sensor, going to try lots of PB blaster and a heat gun tomorrow.
I tore into the front of the engine today, got the water pump and opti off. stopped there and rebuilt my opti with a Delco cap and rotor kit. Found a nasty surprise when i got the original unit apart though:
It had gotten oil inside somehow, i'm not sure if it happened while i was taking it off somehow, but it wasn't anywhere near the sensor, so i just went ahead and cleaned up the old back piece down to taking the sensor and discs off, got it all good and clean and have what looks (and hopefully works) like a new opti:
And here's how she sits at the moment, getting pretty close to starting the rebuild, i'm more than ready for it at this point
So i haven't posted on the car in a few weeks, but i've been pluggin along, doing a lot of crap that frankly sucks to do (valve springs i'm looking at you). Lots of ibuprofen and sore backs later i got the thing back together with my cc503, 1.6 RR's, Alex Springs, pacesetter longtubes, and TSP catted Y. My buddy and I got it down to the exhaust shop today (Burger and shake while we waited, hit up Westside drive-in if you're ever in Boise!) and they did up the Y real nice, It ran like crap on the way there because i forgot to hook up #6 and #8 fuel injectors for some reason
After getting them hooked back up it runs real strong, def much more power than before, the decent oil leak i had going beforehand is gone as well (amazing how such a small thing can become your primary excuse for doing such extensive work)
I'll probably drive it for a week or two till i've had my fill, then address the suspension and brakes.
Here's some pics and i'll throw on a startup vid tomorrow:
Just finished up my battery relocation to the trunk last night, took her out for a shakedown run, was way down on power and had my ABS and Airbag lights on, found the ground by the + junction box under the hood was loose, fixed the lights and got some power back, but it still feels a like i have a little less than before i moved the batt...
Not the cleanest wiring job in the engine bay, but i'll fix that later, on to the suspension...
Great looking car. Looks like how i want mine to look. Mines is a 96 ws6. I'm finally getting mines back together after letting it sit for almost 10 years. Your car gives me inspiration to get mine all back together and actually drive it.
Great looking car. Looks like how i want mine to look. Mines is a 96 ws6. I'm finally getting mines back together after letting it sit for almost 10 years. Your car gives me inspiration to get mine all back together and actually drive it.
Sometimes i feel that way about it, but then i put in a few more hours, drive it, and remember why i'm pouring time and money into it. such a blast! i'm glad to be of some inspiration. i'm kinda jealous you have a real WS6, the best i could do was the clone i'm building
I put a few hours in today. I cleaned the engine bay and SEM trim painted the plastics, and sanded and painted some of the places that had surface rust. I live in cali and have long tube headers so I may have to re-install the stock exhaust to pass smog , unless I find someone to do it. I would still need to paint the entire driver side and both bumpers. My dad messed them up moving the car around. So much to do to get it to look like yours.
anyway keep posting, I wouldn't have worked on mine if it wasn't for your thread. Your car makes me remember how beautiful these cars are when they have some tlc.
Swapped out my gears today, went with Motive 4.10's put on a solid spacer, and a TA diff cover to strengthen it up a bit, did all new seals and bearings while i was in there, the full rebuild kit from JEGS is a nice one, Timkin bearings and all
Only have one pic at the moment
Just the diff gutted
Also threw on a little dress-up bit that came from Hawk's today, and am getting the car prepped for a new opti tomorrow (fingers crossed)
well, first new opti was a no-go, threw resolution codes within 10 minutes of first start up. Parked it, ordered a Delphi, put it on, codes are gone, but i still have the misfire.
I have an MSD OTVC kit that i'm going to throw on to see if some decent wires routed off the block may clear up some arcing, if that doesn't do it i will probably do another compression test (though i'm still at a loss of how to get my #2 plug out since putting long tubes in). It tested fine before the cam swap, but at this point, after testing the injectors and replacing most the ignition system, i have to consider that i may have lost compression somewhere
I won't be updating much though, i'm spending a chunk of the summer in Alaska then China with my wife, so the car will be sitting back in Idaho for a couple months...
I was curious, I just did mine a but I used some 90 degree brackets and bolted it the bottom of the tray and the side of the frame rail instead of setting it in the bottom. ive noticed the that near the bottom though the sheet metal flexes a bit making it seem not as solid but a aside from welding it on there I dont really know how to keep it from flexing. Then again Im not drag racing or anything so it may not matter
Great build you got going on though I like what you have done to the Intake
I was curious, I just did mine a but I used some 90 degree brackets and bolted it the bottom of the tray and the side of the frame rail instead of setting it in the bottom. ive noticed the that near the bottom though the sheet metal flexes a bit making it seem not as solid but a aside from welding it on there I dont really know how to keep it from flexing. Then again Im not drag racing or anything so it may not matter
Great build you got going on though I like what you have done to the Intake
I noticed that too, I punched some small holes for the corners of the 2x6 to sit in, so it's sitting on some spread out corners like a tripod instead of flat against the bottom, seems to do the trick.
I'm happy with how the intake came out, though it's sad how little of it you really see once everything is back on the motor
yeah the good old wiper cowl covers up a lot of work on my setup to.
I think Im going to see if I can access the side of that area and get a strip of metal bot reinforce the lower area and bolt it in that way. Just for piece of mind I also hope I dont run into any power drop from relocating it. I used 1awg wire and im grounding everything the bay and using another 1awg wire to ground in the trunk area. use a terminal block to tie all the positives together in the bay. We will see how it goes.
sharp car though, always liked the lt1 body style in black
yeah the good old wiper cowl covers up a lot of work on my setup to.
I think Im going to see if I can access the side of that area and get a strip of metal bot reinforce the lower area and bolt it in that way. Just for piece of mind I also hope I dont run into any power drop from relocating it. I used 1awg wire and im grounding everything the bay and using another 1awg wire to ground in the trunk area. use a terminal block to tie all the positives together in the bay. We will see how it goes.
sharp car though, always liked the lt1 body style in black
I love it in black, I had a formula about a year ago in medium teal metallic and even though the black gets dirty so much faster, it's worth it:
I used the Taylor relocation kit, plus a 2 gauge ground from battery to block, and some bigger cables from starter to distribution block and the coil strap... It hasn't had any issues starting or charging so far, good luck with your relocation
So i went out of the country for a couple months, been back about a month, but very little progress to report, still chasing down a misfire, tore out my cheapo NAPA plug wires and need to put in my MSD OTVC wires to see if maybe my crap wires and non-standard routing was the culprit.
I haven't been able to get a block of time to do it, but i have cleaned my MAF, swapped my K&N for paper, and swapped out my signal lenses since i could do them in short amounts of time...
Hopefully i can get the wires in soon and get her running again.
03-06-2015, 10:05 AM
