sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

is that just a LMC housing with some cheap LEDs ?

my son got suckered into buyin one of those kits

VIP1

I've seen that posted before and commented before:
* Those pics look like the wrong housings (probably generic pics)
* The output pics don't show the beam pattern
* That style of drop-in LED will produce a bad beam. You want the LEDs in a tight row the same shape and placement as the original bulb's filament. Not just a block.

If you want LED, get the LMC Truck housings and a decent LED kit.

Also be careful on the space behind the low beam buckets. There isn't much space there and LEDs have a big heatsink on the back. Make sure you buy from a place that has a good/easy return policy in case they don't fit or the beam pattern isn't as good as you expect. Manually raise/lower the headlights checking for jamming/contact. Don't just turn the switch. There is a rubber cap over the top of the motor where there is a **** that you can turn to manually raise/lower the headlights. Its visible through a round hole looking down at the radiator/headlight frame behind the headlights.

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

$200 for low beam seems high to me for 2 housings and 2 led bulbs... BUT we know they fit into that size housing as far as the glass housing but my concern is all of the stuff sticking out of the back of the housing, will that clear when our lights go up and down without catching on something?

CaptainThirdGen

iTrader: (2)

I know you guys are looking for 93-97 specific stuff, but as I just installed an LED kit into my 2002 firebird this week I figured I may have somewhat valuable information to add to the discussion.

I went with the late model lighting LED conversion kit. They said it is designed especially for 98-02 firebirds, but I would take that with a grain of salt. I had to do extensive modification to my headlight assemblies to make it work smoothly.

At about $200 for low beams only, it was not cheap. The housings are very nice quality, but the bulbs they provided simply would not work for this application. I bought separate bulbs, and installed them and had better luck since then.

Overall, I recommend LED swapping your firebird, the night time visibility is MUCH improved over stock. However, I believe there is cheaper ways to accomplish this. One way I would recommend would be to find a pair of "un sealed" sealed beam housings. I have found these on multiple websites for anywhere between $50 and $100. Then get yourself some LED bulbs (whatever size the housings you bought can accommodate) then wiring them to your car with either a pigtail connector, or hardwire them. Either way is not very difficult.

I made a youtube video about my experience putting LED's into my firebird, maybe it will help somebody. Here is the link:

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

Thanks for the video, what 9006 leds did you get off amazon?

VIP1

CaptainThirdGen & 99'CajunFirehawk157: That kit looks like LMC Truck housings with an LED Kit. You can buy the housings yourself and supply any good LED kit (LEDs properly aligned in a thin strip the same position and shape as the original Halogen bulb intended for the housing). That is what I did for my high beams. I have projectors for low beam.

Here is my install:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...rojectors.html
(Scroll down for LED High Beam. Let me know if the pics are missing.)

The LED I used don't have a fan, but if you get a set, I would recommend a set with a fan if you find a set that will fit well. I needed them for high beam which I rarely use (my night driving is limited and typically in lit areas). The fan helps with cooling to prevent/limit thermal throttling (the LED driver will dim the LED slightly to prevent burning them up). The ones I have are no longer for sale on Amazon, but the company has a newer set that is a slightly different design (with a fan) that I put in my father's Sorento's projectors. These LED are rotatable to accommodate different housings. Make sure the LED body is oriented vertically with the LEDs aiming to the sides (see pics in my thread). The brand of the ones I have is Auxito.

CaptainThirdGen

iTrader: (2)

I got "Sealight" 9006 6000K LED with wires on them (not L shaped) rated at 12,000 lumens (6k per bulb I believe) and they perform very well. Cost about $30-40 a pair

CaptainThirdGen

iTrader: (2)

Yeah after seeing how expensive the late model lighting kit was, Im going to go with LMC housings on my other kit. Definitely a better value, and if you use non L-shaped bulbs it should require much less modifcation than I did to make my late model lighting kit work.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I know this has been mentioned before but that 6,000 lumens per bulb rating is an ILS (If Lightning Strikes) rating... in other words, bullshit. It is created by adding the maximum theoretical lumen output of the LED chips together regardless of their ability to actually produce that output for even a second. It's kind of like peak amplifier output versus RMS.

Considered by most as one of the best LED bulbs available, V-LED's Micro Extreme bulbs can only produce 4500 lumens and they cost more than four times as much. I'm not saying that the Sealight bulbs are bad, just that there is no way they are as miraculous as they claim to be (and for only $40 per pair).

CaptainThirdGen

iTrader: (2)

oh Im sure they are not actually 12,000 lumens per pair, Thats just what they are advertised as so I included that figure so others could identify the exact bulbs I used on my car if they were looking to get some for their own car. Whatever the light output actually is, they perform very nicely. But I agree, Im sure the actual output is less than advertised.

OneBadLs1Bird

Before yall rake me over the coals for posting yet another headlight post, give me a second to explain my current issue. iv spent hours searching the internet for a similar problem and have yet to find one article. they are all either completely dead, gears stripped making grinding noises, or what not which is none of the issues im having. Here is my issue. Car is a 1998 firebird formula. when i first got the car, the headlights would come up and down perfect. Fast forward about 2 weeks or so, and one day the headlights would only come up a tiny bit. If you turn the headlight switch on and off rapidly/multiple times , they will gradually come all the way up . When turning them off it also takes a few times to get them back down. iv checked all various engine bay and interior fuses related to headlights, all look good. im not an electrician by any means, but wouldnt the motors not work at all if they werent getting enough volts? on a secondary thought, i had a friend install a glowshift water temp gauge for me about the same time i noticed the headlights not cooperating. The power wire is running to one of the interior fuses that gets 12 v. Happens to be a fuse associated with the headlight circuit. Car hardly gets driven, so i never payed much thought to it... is it possible that the gauge is somehow robbing power from the headlight circuit , causing the issue i have? id appreciate any input. thanks

JohnnyBs98WS6Rag

iTrader: (1)

It is mighty suspicious that your headlight woes started when the gauge was installed (not sure what a "glowshift" water temp gauge is, or why it is needed to replace the factory temp gauge). If the circuit for the headlight is being interrupted somehow w/ the new gauge wiring, that could result in insufficient current flow to the headlamp motors. I'd re-check your friend's wiring to be sure it didn't weaken one of the headlamp wire connections to the fuse box. How was this connection done? Try disconnecting it and restoring the original headlamp fuse (be sure the contacts in the fuse box are not sprung open and are still making a good connection to the fuse blades).

NC01TA

^^^ Yes, too much of a coincidence for sure.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

There is no fuse for the headlights (the running/parking lights are a separate circuit on the TAIL LPS fuse). The headlights and headlight doors are protected by fusible links. There is a pair of 15A fuses under the hood for left and right headlight doors but I seriously doubt those would be involved for a gauge installation... certainly not both of them.

I agree with JohnnyBs98WS6Rag that it's probably not a coincidence that the headlight problem started when the gauge was installed. Simply disconnecting the gauge temporarily and checking headlight operation would confirm the diagnosis.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I think this is all a result of your headlight door control module not getting the power, love, and respect it feels it needs. (vs. a direct problem at the headlight motors) But that still points back to issues introduced, likely by your recent gauge change.

MyCETA

Hi, I noticed you have the tonneau cover. Any closeups for me to see? Very curious how that looks...

OneBadLs1Bird

recent update : I removed the gauge wiring from the fuse associated with the headlight module circuit. Headlight operation is still the same. I also changed both headlight motors, as i had a brand new pair sitting there in a box from a previous project car. Still same issue, they will come up partially then stop. repeated actuation of the switch will bring them all the way up, and down. but they are not doing this on their own on the first time which is what im trying to fix. Im really kinda stumped on this one

JohnnyBs98WS6Rag

iTrader: (1)

I've got larger versions in my albums: https://ls1tech.com/g/album/1796616

I'll see if I have any others to post in the next few days, so check back in a week.

Back to the regularly scheduled topic of this thread.........................

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

See Post #5. This behavior is from the Headlight Door Control Module. It may not be a bad module; the inputs could be interrupted.

If you trace the connection going in and out of the module, you should be able to see what is going on.

RONIN LSX

iTrader: (44)

The pass side headlight motor, in my 02, crapped out on me, with no warning.
What's the best replacement option?
Who has the best prices?