Firebird Headlights--ALL COMMENTS/QUESTIONS REGARDING HEADLIGHTS GO IN HERE
07-05-2011, 12:26 AM
#1101
My driver side low beam headlight is having major issues.
The motor for the headlight been replaced before I bought the car back a few years ago.
The headlight was replaced about two-one year ago.
This spring it started with something odd.
The pigtail started to burn so i replaced the pigtail and cleaned off the headlight.
Well the second pigtail is now deformed and burnt too.
So I just unplugged it because the smoke was becoming to much from the burning pigtail and it doesn't seem safe unless my name is Billy Bob Joe who married his first cousin.
So my question regards of what to do?
The motor for the headlight been replaced before I bought the car back a few years ago.
The headlight was replaced about two-one year ago.
This spring it started with something odd.
The pigtail started to burn so i replaced the pigtail and cleaned off the headlight.
Well the second pigtail is now deformed and burnt too.
So I just unplugged it because the smoke was becoming to much from the burning pigtail and it doesn't seem safe unless my name is Billy Bob Joe who married his first cousin.
So my question regards of what to do?
Where did you get a replacement from?
I remember I had a metal pin in the plastic plug that had several broken strands of wire and it caused it to overheat. The simplest fix is to ditch the plug and crimp on new insulated connectors and label them H and L and of course the black wire is the ground. Make sure the plugs slide on tightly. that will solve that problem.
07-15-2011, 02:12 PM
#1109
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Tempe, AZ
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Ive had it with these gear motors and linkage.. Even if I get everything tightened up, one side seems to jiggle a little when driving, I've put in the brass gears but the sides keep moving even with band clamps.. F that crap
I've decided to go for gold and plan out a solution using 12v linear actuators with built in limit switches. The throw shouldn't be much if I'm going to put in projectors and the mounting angle should keep the assembly from bouncing around at speed or bending if someone leans on it as it will be triangulated. Another side benefit is the ability to have it open and close at a slower speed instead of slamming down and getting looks from people thinking you just hit a car.
The only thing I have yet to figure out is how to integrate with or hack the stock headlight controller(if it is even possible). When the actuator hits the limit switch, it shuts off so the headlight controller won't see the added draw to determine if the unit has stopped (I guess that's how it works). Maybe I can integrate some kind of timer into the circuit.
I found several online for about 75 each because you should only need like 15lb max and a 6" or 8" stroke pulling 2A when loaded. Maybe one without limit switches would put a high load when they hit the ends and could work with the stock controller, but I have no idea yet, just vomiting my thoughts out here to see if anyone has done or thought of similar..
I tried to read this thread, but 111 pages is a bit much. Apologies if this was covered but I only saw threads about hoods or hatches with actuators.
I've decided to go for gold and plan out a solution using 12v linear actuators with built in limit switches. The throw shouldn't be much if I'm going to put in projectors and the mounting angle should keep the assembly from bouncing around at speed or bending if someone leans on it as it will be triangulated. Another side benefit is the ability to have it open and close at a slower speed instead of slamming down and getting looks from people thinking you just hit a car.
The only thing I have yet to figure out is how to integrate with or hack the stock headlight controller(if it is even possible). When the actuator hits the limit switch, it shuts off so the headlight controller won't see the added draw to determine if the unit has stopped (I guess that's how it works). Maybe I can integrate some kind of timer into the circuit.
I found several online for about 75 each because you should only need like 15lb max and a 6" or 8" stroke pulling 2A when loaded. Maybe one without limit switches would put a high load when they hit the ends and could work with the stock controller, but I have no idea yet, just vomiting my thoughts out here to see if anyone has done or thought of similar..
I tried to read this thread, but 111 pages is a bit much. Apologies if this was covered but I only saw threads about hoods or hatches with actuators.
07-15-2011, 04:58 PM
#1110
Teching In
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I seen one while I was driving and it looked awesome! And man you just blew my mind lol. Have you attempted to do any of it yet? I was going to buy a spare headlights and gears an just try it out and brain storm with them and see how it works out. I haven't tried anything with them yet but I would like to get something done with this. It's starting to really irritate me
07-20-2011, 01:10 PM
#1111
Launching!
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Just posting a follow up from the previous page. It turned out that for whatever reason my HID's were making things angry. If I turn off my floods before locking/unlocking my car I have no issue.
07-21-2011, 10:47 PM
#1113
i just replaced my pass side headlight motor and now my headlights are out of sync. i've tried several things and no luck... anybody had this problem? i'm currently sifting through the 60 pages but no luck...
07-22-2011, 12:12 AM
#1114
Staging Lane
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anyone know if there is a way to cut off the lights from opening and closing while unlocking. im cool with the fogs flashing but dont like the headlights going up and down ... let me know
07-22-2011, 03:16 AM
#1116
If so, the temp fix to keep the lights from activating from the key fob is to pull the fuses.
At night I would put the fuses in, raise both lights, then pull the fuses back out. Then in the day, put the fuses in, lower the lights, and pull the fuses back out. It's inconvenient, but will work till you get the motors fixed.
07-22-2011, 09:10 PM
#1119
Their supposed to go through a relay. The stock headlight switch isn't designed to handle the much higher load that the ballasts create during their warm up cycle. Switches have been known to burn out and wires smoke. Not a good thing.
Plus no wonking side effects.
Plus no wonking side effects.