Do you mean the pigtail on the back of the headlight?

Where did you get a replacement from?

I remember I had a metal pin in the plastic plug that had several broken strands of wire and it caused it to overheat. The simplest fix is to ditch the plug and crimp on new insulated connectors and label them H and L and of course the black wire is the ground. Make sure the plugs slide on tightly. that will solve that problem.

 

It was a eBay one that looked great in quality but wire was not as heavy duty

 

drivers side head light didnt wanna pop up after multiple attempts...finally after about 10x's it finally popped up..kinda weird

 

Does anyone know where I can find a kit to where my headlights don't flip up they are just half open all the time?

 

Search "Breathless conversion"

 

He's not talking about the Breathless piece.

The half open thing will have to be made yourself. You'll need to swap to a short, wide lens like the lt1 camaro's had.

 

Is that the only way to do it? And I don't really know how I would do that..can you explain a little? Sorry I just don't want to mess anything up

 

Where did you see a crazy half open headlight in the first place?

I've only seen them on Silvia's/S13 and S14's. Mostly in Japan. Afaik, they rig them up themselves.

 

Ive had it with these gear motors and linkage.. Even if I get everything tightened up, one side seems to jiggle a little when driving, I've put in the brass gears but the sides keep moving even with band clamps.. F that crap

I've decided to go for gold and plan out a solution using 12v linear actuators with built in limit switches. The throw shouldn't be much if I'm going to put in projectors and the mounting angle should keep the assembly from bouncing around at speed or bending if someone leans on it as it will be triangulated. Another side benefit is the ability to have it open and close at a slower speed instead of slamming down and getting looks from people thinking you just hit a car.

The only thing I have yet to figure out is how to integrate with or hack the stock headlight controller(if it is even possible). When the actuator hits the limit switch, it shuts off so the headlight controller won't see the added draw to determine if the unit has stopped (I guess that's how it works). Maybe I can integrate some kind of timer into the circuit.

I found several online for about 75 each because you should only need like 15lb max and a 6" or 8" stroke pulling 2A when loaded. Maybe one without limit switches would put a high load when they hit the ends and could work with the stock controller, but I have no idea yet, just vomiting my thoughts out here to see if anyone has done or thought of similar..

I tried to read this thread, but 111 pages is a bit much. Apologies if this was covered but I only saw threads about hoods or hatches with actuators.

 

I seen one while I was driving and it looked awesome! And man you just blew my mind lol. Have you attempted to do any of it yet? I was going to buy a spare headlights and gears an just try it out and brain storm with them and see how it works out. I haven't tried anything with them yet but I would like to get something done with this. It's starting to really irritate me

 

Just posting a follow up from the previous page. It turned out that for whatever reason my HID's were making things angry. If I turn off my floods before locking/unlocking my car I have no issue.

 

Are your hids powered straight from the battery using a relay?

 

i just replaced my pass side headlight motor and now my headlights are out of sync. i've tried several things and no luck... anybody had this problem? i'm currently sifting through the 60 pages but no luck...

 

anyone know if there is a way to cut off the lights from opening and closing while unlocking. im cool with the fogs flashing but dont like the headlights going up and down ... let me know

 

Get one down, pull it's fuse then get the other down, put fuse back in.

 

Do you have a motor that's messing up?
If so, the temp fix to keep the lights from activating from the key fob is to pull the fuses.

At night I would put the fuses in, raise both lights, then pull the fuses back out. Then in the day, put the fuses in, lower the lights, and pull the fuses back out. It's inconvenient, but will work till you get the motors fixed.

 

I'm pretty sure I tried that but I will try again.

 

No, they're just powered by the stock harnesses.

 

Their supposed to go through a relay. The stock headlight switch isn't designed to handle the much higher load that the ballasts create during their warm up cycle. Switches have been known to burn out and wires smoke. Not a good thing.

Plus no wonking side effects.

 

Didn't work. I have no idea what else to do. I'm starting to think the motor was assembled or wired wrong