When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
They are all the same. I haven't seen any new designs other than the Cardone having the removable cover for easy gear changes.
All of the motors can strip the gears, which is intentional - there has to be a weak link in the system if the door ever gets jammed, etc. The problem is that the motor body comes loose from the gear housing because its held on with flimsy metal tabs. This leads, commonly, to premature gear wear. (I haven't seen any motor with a different body/tab design.)
The other reason I like the Cardones is that I can change the nylon gears out 10 times for the same cost of a metal gear - and those metal gears also strip, so they really don't cover all the bases.
This would typically indicate something mechanical. In your situation, I would swap the motors between your driver's side and passenger side. See if the problem moves with the motors. If so, that would indicate that the motor you purchased is a dud. (This would not be the first time it's happened to us.)
There's all sorts of things you could try and tinker with, but at this point - I think swapping the motors (in your specific situation) will be the path of least resistance/effort/time to resolving the problem.
I'll look into that. One of the things I noticed is my driver's side headlight flickers as I drive, so it must not be bracing itself against the frame. I'm going to have to look into something there.
Are you guys getting the reman or new Cardone motors?
Also, I see there's 2 body options, when searching Advanced / Autozone... one made from plastic and another that looks like it made from cast metal, maybe pot-metal, which is the better option? I want to say the metal variant, but who knows with these Chinese POS.
Another thing I read about these Cardome units, was many were wired in reverse... WTF!? The feedback is 4+ years, has anyone delt with this issue, with recent units?
★★★★★2 out of 5 stars. ·4 years ago
Backwards Wiring
I installed the new unit into my firebird and as soon as i reconnected the battery it raised the headlight,i turned the lights on to check it wasnt just a accident and the light retracted while on and then extended when off. the wiring is backwards as when i scraped off some of the new black paint the green wire from the old colour scheme was connected to the grey wire of my car. i was able to fix the issue by cutting and re crimping the wires in the correct position but if you dont know how to do that then i dont recommend buying this unit in case it is a common fault
★★★★★1 out of 5 stars. ·5 years ago
BEWARE: This Part May Be Wired Backwards Inside The Motor
The wire leads on this part are gray and green underneath the black paint on them if part is remanufactured. Using a small 12V battery and a couple of wire leads, connect the positive lead to the green wire; negative to gray. If the motor is wired correctly on the inside, the spindle should rotate clockwise. When reversed (positive to gray; negative to green), the spindle should rotate counter-clockwise. The motor actually works by reversing the polarity like this, thus the spindle rotates in one direction to open/raise the headlight and the other to close.
The problem with this remanufactured part is that Cardone has apparently wired some (perhaps many) of these backwards inside the motor. This means that when connecting the positive lead to the green wire and negative to gray (as above), the spindle rotates counter-clockwise - not clockwise like it should. Similarly, when reversed (positive to gray; negative to green), the spindle rotates clockwise - not counter-clockwise like it should. The result is that once this defective remanufactured part is installed, the headlight is raised when the lights are turned off and lowered when you turn them on. The headlight itself works properly, but it is completely useless if the headlight is on and the door is closed.
I have exchanged 2 of these at AutoZone so far (and counting), and if I receive yet another that still does this when tested, I am inclined to think Cardone may need to recall them - all of them - and retest each, repairing as needed. Already growing weary of exchanging these, I am also inclined to just reverse the wires myself so the damn thing works correctly.
Only 1 star since I'll have to fix a part I purchased in good faith just to get it working. Best to test this thing first rather than waste time installing it only to find out then. I suspect many of these may be reverse-wired like this. Part is a passenger side replacement but it operates like a driver side motor.
Are you guys getting the reman or new Cardone motors?
For something like this - definitely go new. None of the original units age gracefully.
Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
Also, I see there's 2 body options, when searching Advanced / Autozone... one made from plastic and another that looks like it made from cast metal, maybe pot-metal, which is the better option? I want to say the metal variant, but who knows with these Chinese POS.
That metal frame one is new to me - but that's the proper way to do it and the way these should have been made from the start. If I were in the market, I'd give that new design a try.
Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
Another thing I read about these Cardome units, was many were wired in reverse... WTF!? The feedback is 4+ years, has anyone delt with this issue, with recent units?
I haven't heard of anyone having the same problem since I had mine way-back-when. If it were a "thing", we'd be hearing about it here over and over and over again.
Gear Problem!
I just replaced the plastic gear in my pass. side headlight motor. The old one was clearly missing a few teeth. Now, it's worse!
Before today, both headlights opened and closed, with the only problem being the 5 seconds of grinding of the stripped one after it closed.
Now, the light does not go up at all, and it grinds on open and close... with the new gear. I though I had a mistake, so I opened it back up & repeated the whole process. Same outcome. I tried two different, brand new gears.
What is going on? Is the plastic gear not making contact with the screw gear for some reason? Should I get another motor?
Is the plastic gear not making contact with the screw gear for some reason? Should I get another motor?
Yes and yes.
Typically the motor becomes loose from the gear case and it tears apart the gear. (Plastic or metal.) Some people have been able to re-stamp the metal tabs that hold the two together, but that typically doesn't last long. The new motor design ^ above looks like it addresses this defficiency.
Typically the motor becomes loose from the gear case and it tears apart the gear. (Plastic or metal.) Some people have been able to re-stamp the metal tabs that hold the two together, but that typically doesn't last long. The new motor design ^ above looks like it addresses this defficiency.
Are you referring to the metal bodied motor, I posted above? If so, I contacted Cardone about that unit and unfortunately it's a motor for the Fiero. I'm not sure why it came up as a Firebird motor, but none the less, I apologize for the confusion.
Are you referring to the metal bodied motor, I posted above? If so, I contacted Cardone about that unit and unfortunately it's a motor for the Fiero. I'm not sure why it came up as a Firebird motor, but none the less, I apologize for the confusion.
Would love to know how close the metal motor is to the Firebirds, looks much better than the plastic one. The case looks identical, the wiring looks different...
Would love to know how close the metal motor is to the Firebirds, looks much better than the plastic one. The case looks identical, the wiring looks different...
We need someone, who's proficient enough to install these, test one out. It can always be returned if it doesn't work out... just keep that damned receipt, lol
I wonder if there would be a way to talk to a merchandiser at Advanced / Autozone to try to find out if a metal version of the Fiero motor could be acquired from China for the Firebirds!
I wonder if there would be a way to talk to a merchandiser at Advanced / Autozone to try to find out if a metal version of the Fiero motor could be acquired from China for the Firebirds!
Advanced / Autozone doesn't make these parts, this is a Cardone part. Probably best to talk to someone at Cardone, I would think.
Fixing my actuator arm, among other things.... Stupid question, but is there a special way to put the little retainer onto the post? With the teeth facing the arm, or facing out? I thought facing out... The light assembly is quite loose, and the retainer comes right off. Is there a way to tighten it? I'm trying to stop the light from shaking.
So a few days ago I noticed that my passenger side headlight wouldn’t illuminate. I pulled the connectors from the back, flicked the lights on and off a few times and it came back to life.
This evening, I noticed the drivers side headlight wouldn’t come on. I tried pulling the connector and doing like I did before, but it didn’t work. My DRL work fine, fog lights work fine, high beams work fine….
Anyone ever experience these sort of headlight issues? I’ve read check the ground on the radiator support for corrosion, however there is zero rust anywhere in sight as the car has been well taken care of, rust proofed and garage stored.
I’m planning to trouble shoot in the next few days, my plan was to test the connector with a volt meter to ensure it’s getting power, maybe swap the passenger side working light into the drivers side to see if it works, spraying down the connector with contact cleaner…. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated
Anyone ever experience these sort of headlight issues?
Yes, it can be a bad connection at the lamp, in the headlight motor connector (the lamp wires also go through that and get corroded), or there could be issues with the headlight door control module.
Over the years, most of my problems like this happened in the connector for the headlight motor. If you see corrosion on the terminals, then you need to get it off. Dentist tools/picks, emory cloth, and a lot of patience get it done.
You should also be able to trace the electricity at all these spots.
09-30-2021, 07:04 AM
