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This would typically indicate something mechanical. In your situation, I would swap the motors between your driver's side and passenger side. See if the problem moves with the motors. If so, that would indicate that the motor you purchased is a dud. (This would not be the first time it's happened to us.)
There's all sorts of things you could try and tinker with, but at this point - I think swapping the motors (in your specific situation) will be the path of least resistance/effort/time to resolving the problem.
wssix99, confirming that I've had both headlights get stuck down. Both are new motors. As with my previous story, if the headlight is stuck down, I simply open the hood, loosen the ****, try the switch again and the headlight goes up.
The passenger one doesn't do it very often, mostly the driver's side. I'd say it's good for 5-6 cycles and then I have an issue.
I'll also add that my driver's side headlight tends to bounce a bit when I'm driving. I'm thinking that the mechanism isn't bracing itself against the car frame when it's fully extended up. That might have something to do with it?
wssix99, confirming that I've had both headlights get stuck down. Both are new motors. As with my previous story, if the headlight is stuck down, I simply open the hood, loosen the ****, try the switch again and the headlight goes up.
The passenger one doesn't do it very often, mostly the driver's side. I'd say it's good for 5-6 cycles and then I have an issue.
I'll also add that my driver's side headlight tends to bounce a bit when I'm driving. I'm thinking that the mechanism isn't bracing itself against the car frame when it's fully extended up. That might have something to do with it?
If your motors are new, I would look back at the headlight control module. There are separate electrical connections and relays for each side. (So the cold solder joint problem can express itself differently for each headlight.)
If your headlight isn't stable during driving, you should be able to tap on it in your driveway and observe where the loose/weak link is, comparing both sides.
I'm having a different problem. I did try looking at previous posts but couldn't find anything on this. The passenger side headlight door is sitting way too high, which is causing it to snag on the hood when it tries to go up. UGH! I'm WAY more familiar with the headlight doors and brackets from 82-92.
Is there someone here familiar with the 4th gen headlight doors that can tell me more about which bolts there are to loosen to lower the headlight door's alignment? Could this be any kind of broken/damaged/bent headlight door bracket or hinge assembly?
I know I also need a new bumper for the hood on the passenger side, the one there is just not great, it may even be the wrong bumper. It's more of a stiffer plastic and does not seem to have adjustment threads on it.
But clearly the headlight door is sitting way too high on the outboard side of the door.
I'm having a different problem. I did try looking at previous posts but couldn't find anything on this. The passenger side headlight door is sitting way too high, which is causing it to snag on the hood when it tries to go up. UGH! I'm WAY more familiar with the headlight doors and brackets from 82-92.
Is there someone here familiar with the 4th gen headlight doors that can tell me more about which bolts there are to loosen to lower the headlight door's alignment? Could this be any kind of broken/damaged/bent headlight door bracket or hinge assembly?
I know I also need a new bumper for the hood on the passenger side, the one there is just not great, it may even be the wrong bumper. It's more of a stiffer plastic and does not seem to have adjustment threads on it.
But clearly the headlight door is sitting way too high on the outboard side of the door.
Raise the light, take the screws out for the plastic trim. You will see 4 adjustable screws that hold the metal cover in place. They have slotted mounts.
Hello all, I was wondering if there was any easy way to get projector headlight housings for my 97 firebird? its just the base v6 model. I am very night blind and the stock headlights are okay but sometimes I cannot see. I looked into it and everything I was seeing was way too expensive. I was going to do a projector housing and some amazon led bulbs, those have worked super well for me in the past with other cars. My mustang had a reflector housing and they weren't that great, and my malibu had a projector housing and holy s*** was that a night and day difference.
Last edited by Strife1126; 12-18-2022 at 01:10 PM.
Blackbird Lighting Solutions did have a projector setup for the 1993-1997 Firebirds. They might still.
I haven't seen any newer options unless there is a Holley/Motimoto LED Housing that is the same size as the 1993-1997 Firebird. Morimoto used to have some other projector setups. One of them might have been the right size.
You can find Morimoto stuff at their own website (The Retrofit Source) and others. From what I've read, the new Holley LED Retrofit Housings are actually made by Morimoto.
If you are handy, you can make your own custom setup as well.
Those Genssi headlights have been around for a while and are larger than the Firebird headlights. They are 4x6 and the H4701/H4703 headlights on the Firebird are slightly smaller. Unless Genssi made a new version that is smaller.
I bought a pair of these. The headlights are a perfect fit, but the prongs on the harness do not fit into the connector. Is there an adapter or some for use with these?
I bought a pair of these. The headlights are a perfect fit, but the prongs on the harness do not fit into the connector. Is there an adapter or some for use with these?
Send them back, they suck. They have decent wide illumination but they only light up 15' of the road in front of you. The Genssi website wouldn't let me submit a negative review on the lights.
Send them back, they suck. They have decent wide illumination but they only light up 15' of the road in front of you.
Oh geez. That's no better distance than the stockers give, though I imagine the LED's are brighter. I get plenty of good wide illumination from the HID's in my fogs, due to their placement on the standard Firebird front end. But I need distance down the road in the center.
I can't find an email receipt from them, and I don't think there was a hard copy in the box. This will be a chore trying to get them returned.
Oh geez. That's no better distance than the stockers give, though I imagine the LED's are brighter. I get plenty of good wide illumination from the HID's in my fogs, due to their placement on the standard Firebird front end. But I need distance down the road in the center.
I can't find an email receipt from them, and I don't think there was a hard copy in the box. This will be a chore trying to get them returned.
I don't have any cutoff photos but here's one on the road and the camera makes the lights look WAY better than they are. That car is 3-4 lengths ahead of me and you can see about halfway it's dark. Hopefully you can get your money back!
94 Trans Am. Driver side headlight assembly has lots of slack in the linkage between the motor and the headlight assembly, which makes the whole assembly vibrate and bounce going down the road, or you can grab the headlight and wiggle it up and down.
Is there a proper repair for this? On mine it looks like the pin or the bushing on the bottom of the linkage arm is where all the slack is coming from, but I’m not sure how you separate that pin from the linkage without damaging it. It looks like if I could get it apart, I could just put a bolt, nut and washers through it and tighten it enough for it to still rotate, but take up the slack.
Blackbird Lighting Solutions did have a projector setup for the 1993-1997 Firebirds. They might still.
I haven't seen any newer options unless there is a Holley/Motimoto LED Housing that is the same size as the 1993-1997 Firebird. Morimoto used to have some other projector setups. One of them might have been the right size.
You can find Morimoto stuff at their own website (The Retrofit Source) and others. From what I've read, the new Holley LED Retrofit Housings are actually made by Morimoto.
If you are handy, you can make your own custom setup as well.
I just purchased the super expensive Morimoto XB 4x6 bi-LEDs for my 94 Trans Am. They come with an H4 pigtail and you must cut off your car’s original headlight plug and wire in a new H4 female plug. Simple enough to do. Some places you purchase these lights from might even include them. I bought the lights from Summit on sale and bought the H4 pigtails on Amazon for $20.
The light output on these things is phenomenal. This is the first set of LED projectors I have ever bought and I am amazed with the quality of the light and how little glare and light refraction comes off of them. I installed one and left the stock headlight on the other side, and the old halogen actually glared and threw more dazzling light. The LED was so crisp and clear, it looked like it was running on half the power of the halogen, yet producing twice and much light.
Super expensive, but the best headlights I’ve ever bought in 20 years.
Last edited by Detailpro116; 01-10-2023 at 11:26 PM.
$480/pair isn't too bad of a price. Stuff like this used to cost over $1000. I woider how these compare to their other Morimoto projectors (which aren't sealed) and other housings.
They also have now the Holley Retrobright 4X6 LED (also made by Morimoto) for $360/pair. They look like the old halogens but are brighter with good beam pattern. You can get them in the yellow-ish original halogen color or bright white instead.
I don't know how these two different units compare though. It would be interesting to see them side-by-side.
Both options are available from The Retrofit Source (Morimoto is their brand) and other places.
Speaking of comparisons, can you show a side-by-side comparison of the units you got to the original halogen. Beam pattern aimed at wall 20+ feet away and housings on table? That would help others in deciding what to buy.
05-19-2022, 09:35 PM
