wssix99

iTrader: (5)

No problem. As you take your next cut at this, please post back in that sticky thread if you have further problems. You'll get more eyes on your issues there.

Skiliq

Sorry if I missed an answer to this one, I tried searching but didnt find what I was looking for.

When I turn on the headlights they open, come on, and stay on for about 30 seconds, then go off and stay open. If I turn them off they close, and will not re-open right away. They will usually open again if I wait several hours or the next day. When the switch is turned on, but the lights are open and off or wont open, the dash lights and tail lights will flicker, and I hear clicking coming from the switch. I tried replacing the switch with one off of ebay and the problem continues. DRL, fog lights, side markers, tail lights, dash lights all come on, but it seems the signal to tell the headlights to turn on is not occurring. The LED DRL I have are normally orange when the headlights are off and white when the headlights are on, but when I turn the switch to turn on the headlights and they dont open, the DRL stay orange.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This sounds like the cold solder problem on the headlight control board. Check out this thread, starting at post 1838: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...o-here-46.html

Skiliq

Thanks I will check that out

PontiacHighPriestess

So, I bought the gear and replaced it. Found two broke off teeth inside the motor. Put it back together....it works EXACTLY like it did before. Headlight works fine, everything lined up fine, but still have the noise. What did I do wrong? And...it was NOT as easy as everyone says it is.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You probably broke the new gear that you put in. Many gears don't break because they are "bad", they break because the motor becomes separated from the mount and mis-aligned. This will even strip/break metal gears.

There are ways to tighten this up, but that just buys a little time before the next gear breaks and you have to get a new motor unit. https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ght-doors.html

sycl956

It all started when a running light went out so I bought a bulb and replaced it and all of the sudden I tried the headlights I and noticed it turned on the popups in the second (middle) switch instead of the last one which is supposed to turn them on and I started also hearing the grinding noise which means the motor is worn out and I have already ordered a new motor but I’m still wondering why they open with the 2nd switch instead of the third it still turns on the light with the 3rd switch tho

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Having the headlights pop up in the "P" position of the headlight switch is a classic symptom of a damaged motor gear just like the grinding noise you hear. Replacing the motor will solve the problem for now (you can also replace the gears separately) but they will fail again sometime down the road although it might be another 19 years so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

sycl956

Thanks bro also what about my driver head light it isn’t grinding but it too turns on the “P” position when I replace the passenger motor which is the one that grinds will it go back to normal both?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, if the left side motor gears are undamaged then fixing the right side should take care of the problem... at least for a while. There's a very good chance that the left side will need replacing in the near future since it's just as old and has run the same number of cycles.

sycl956

Recently I replaced the head light motor and it solved the grinding noise and works on the third switch again
but sometimes it doesn’t open I can see the lights turn on but it doesn’t lift it takes time like 5-10 mins to lift up but eventually it does any fix for this I feel like it could be the connector dirty?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This sounds like the cold solder joint problem with the headlight control module. Start readying on post #1838 of this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...o-here-46.html

k3000

What year Firebird is this?

I was also just reading that this can sometimes not be from any one place. Sometimes you need to clean all the grounding points in the circuit and I think there's several different sockets you could clean or replace. My understanding is sometimes it could be a current drop going through several of the connectors to reach a point it doesn't want to work right. Or, I understand cold solder joints in the control module or a bad relay in the module do happen. I would read up in the service manual where all the ground points and connectors are and check and clean them, starting with the grounds. It always seemed to me that grounds build up resistance first over time.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There's a sticky in this section with a listing of all the grounds but I don't think this is a ground issue. The control board cracked solder joint issue causes this delayed function. When there is a bump or a knock the module (hitting a bump in the road, shutting the hood, etc.) things move in the module, contacts are finally made across the cracked joints, and the pulse needed for the module to open the doors is received.

sycl956

Ever since I bought my bird back in December it’s had many issues regarding the headlights which is expected last month a motor started grinding and I replaced it and it went back to normal but it’s always had a tendency to not want to pop up at all and had a delay so I would go open the hood and manually open them but sometimes they would work and somedays it would open no problem but today they didn’t want to pop open so I went to manually open them and used my bird to go to the store and when I went back home and turned off my car and turn the switch to the off positions the lights didn’t go down and stayed open I think the relay or fuse broke but I don’t know what can be the reason for these delays and now it doesn’t want to go down anymore

Timothy Gee

Cleaned connectors, fuses good, motor good. Headlight bulbs come on. Please help

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Merging threads:

Did you see the answer to your original post (above) on this problem?

FordGirlGoneBad

iTrader: (1)

I've done a search and don't see if there are any suggestions on a "best" replacement motor -- I'm hoping to find one that already has aluminum gears inside and not something I have to purchase and rebuild. Has someone out there built a better mousetrap on these things? I have a 2000 T/A that has had no less than six motors replaced the last ten years. Thanks!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You shouldn't assume that an aluminum gear provides any net value. For sure - they cost more and only last a bit longer. (I used them and ended up wasting a lot more money.) In the end, the design of the motor, itself, is wonky and even the metal gears strip: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ght-doors.html

^ The Cardone motors in the thread above are maintainable and are built so the gears can be swapped. I've been using them for a few years now and haven't had to tough them except for the wiring issues I had. (It seems that no one else has reported wiring problems, so hopefully that's all good now also.)

FordGirlGoneBad

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info...I read and reread the thread you directed me to and lots of good info in there. Cardone still looks to be the way to go and if Rock Auto still has them at under $100 each, I'll be grabbing two. Thanks again. I haven't needed to come on LS1Tech for quite a while, good to know it's still kicking and the info is still good. Although it has slowed down tremendously...thanks!