Firebird Headlights--ALL COMMENTS/QUESTIONS REGARDING HEADLIGHTS GO IN HERE
#1024
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Update: Tried it again today. Got it to full go up again, but now that noise is happening and the little manual raise thing starts spinning eradically....Help
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Update to the update: Yeah. I'm just gonna buy a new headlight motor before I get too pissed off at it.
Last edited by Keithm89; 03-12-2011 at 07:20 AM.
#1025
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Location: Corpus Christi, TX
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anybody know where to get the screws that hold down the headlight cover?? i dont know how but when i turned on the headlights it popped off and i lost the screws
#1027
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Installed the new LMC housings and I decided to use the bulbs they sent with them. Stuck the brown wire in the hole for the connector, and the black with black, but the light barely shines and doesn't even look like it's working. what could be the problem?
Edit: Grounds all look good, the stock sealed beams work just fine. Not sure if I'm somehow, someway, ******* up the installation...I might just strip them and connect them.
Edit: Grounds all look good, the stock sealed beams work just fine. Not sure if I'm somehow, someway, ******* up the installation...I might just strip them and connect them.
Last edited by Keithm89; 03-20-2011 at 04:32 PM.
#1028
Staging Lane
iTrader: (51)
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Hello guys, I need help. I read this whole thread. I replaced both headlight motors with the new updated ones from oreilleys and replaced the plastic gear with the brass gear. I also added the extra T-bar to keep the cover in place (yes, this is overkill, as the new motors have the screws to keep the cover down). Anyway my old passenger motor seemed to have been stuck and may have caused the headlight control module or whatever its called to burn out or short out. I didnt realize this until I put in the new motor and it wasnt moving. The new passenger motor and headlight control module started getting hot, so I unplugged the module as soon as I realized this. Where can I buy this headlight control module the one thats by the engine fuses. I cant find it in the auto parts websites and when I call the parts people dont know what im talking about. What is the name of the Headlight control module?I just hope that I didnt burn out my new passenger motor, as that was the only side that was installed up to that point. Any suggestions.
#1031
Staging Lane
iTrader: (51)
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Huge thanks to everyone in this forum that contributed to this sticky JasonWW, Danny2Tek and everyone else that chimes in.
JasonWW, thanks, I received the Module and it worked like a charm, a pleasure doing business with you. The only problem I had was that the lights were out of sync and I put a little TOO MUCH electrical tape on the stops (this prevents the lights going up or down). I just need to take a couple of turns of tape and well be good to go. I will try turning the switch off and on to synch up the lights.
I was wondering if anyone sells the white STOPS for the headlights.
My headlights are also shaking a lot. When im driving I can see the light pattern all over the place. LOL. I think I have an idea of why.
When I was taking the linkage arm off of the actual headlight side and not the motor side. The linkage had a little white/gray bushing, I am assuming to prevent this kind of rattle. The only problem is that it was worn beyond repair. So does anyone know where to buy them? I dont even know if its called a bushing or grommet?
Thanks guys.
JasonWW, thanks, I received the Module and it worked like a charm, a pleasure doing business with you. The only problem I had was that the lights were out of sync and I put a little TOO MUCH electrical tape on the stops (this prevents the lights going up or down). I just need to take a couple of turns of tape and well be good to go. I will try turning the switch off and on to synch up the lights.
I was wondering if anyone sells the white STOPS for the headlights.
My headlights are also shaking a lot. When im driving I can see the light pattern all over the place. LOL. I think I have an idea of why.
When I was taking the linkage arm off of the actual headlight side and not the motor side. The linkage had a little white/gray bushing, I am assuming to prevent this kind of rattle. The only problem is that it was worn beyond repair. So does anyone know where to buy them? I dont even know if its called a bushing or grommet?
Thanks guys.
Last edited by trans_am_31; 03-27-2011 at 10:52 PM.
#1032
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Huge thanks to everyone in this forum that contributed to this sticky JasonWW, Danny2Tek and everyone else that chimes in.
JasonWW, thanks, I received the Module and it worked like a charm, a pleasure doing business with you. The only problem I had was that the lights were out of sync and I put a little TOO MUCH electrical tape on the stops (this prevents the lights going up or down). I just need to take a couple of turns of tape and well be good to go. I will try turning the switch off and on to synch up the lights.
I was wondering if anyone sells the white STOPS for the headlights.
My headlights are also shaking a lot. When im driving I can see the light pattern all over the place. LOL. I think I have an idea of why.
When I was taking the linkage arm off of the actual headlight side and not the motor side. The linkage had a little grommet, I am assuming to prevent this kind of rattle. The only problem is that it was worn beyond repair. So does anyone know where to buy them? I dont even know if its called a grommet?
Thanks guys.
JasonWW, thanks, I received the Module and it worked like a charm, a pleasure doing business with you. The only problem I had was that the lights were out of sync and I put a little TOO MUCH electrical tape on the stops (this prevents the lights going up or down). I just need to take a couple of turns of tape and well be good to go. I will try turning the switch off and on to synch up the lights.
I was wondering if anyone sells the white STOPS for the headlights.
My headlights are also shaking a lot. When im driving I can see the light pattern all over the place. LOL. I think I have an idea of why.
When I was taking the linkage arm off of the actual headlight side and not the motor side. The linkage had a little grommet, I am assuming to prevent this kind of rattle. The only problem is that it was worn beyond repair. So does anyone know where to buy them? I dont even know if its called a grommet?
Thanks guys.
#1036
Staging Lane
iTrader: (51)
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After reading this entire thread, three times, I finally was able to fix my headlights after a long three year battle. To those that think, like I did, that fixing them was going to be impossible. Dont!!!
Many thanks go to Danny2Tek and JasonWW and countless other who have contributed to this thread.
Please read the sticky in the top of these thread (Post#1) as this will help you install/uninstall lights,gears and cover adjustments and give you a general idea of what your dealing with. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
My story started like the others, My lights would make horrible noises when turned on and when I pressed the lock/unlock button on my keyfob. I tried the free fix, worked for 2 months then same thing again.
I ordered new plastic gears and redid the motors with them, but the covers on the motor kept coming off. So to solve this dilemma, I bought on the brass gear kit that came with the T-bar for extra protection against the cover coming off. I put the brass gear and glued the cover back on. Installed the T-bar on the motor cover. I also punched in the the tabs on the motor to make sure everything was okay.
The fix was in Post#51
Very important step. Please look at those pics and it will explain. Punching those tabs is a must, and please check them to make sure they are on tight every time you take a motor off or reinstall a gear. Or they will fail. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...go-here-3.html
This worked for 1 month and the glue came off even with the T-bar.
I reglued them again, this time with more epoxy (bad move). I installed them and turned the switch on, only for one motor to work and the other wouldnt even move,both lights worked fine, so I knew it wasnt a harness or wiring problem,I had checked for corrosion and I was fine as I had put some connector grease on them. The harness is to blame a lot of the times when lights dim out or even when motors stop working all together, please check for corrosion where the headlight harness connects to the body harness, if its dirty, clean it up and waterproof it with some grease or do as some other have suggested, bypass the switch and make your own connections using spade connectors. Check to make sure current is getting to the motors. It turned out, I had put on so much expoxy that the motor couldnt spin and it burned out and in the process my burned headlight control module (smelled awful).
So I did more research and found out here in the forums that Oreilleys has a new kind of motor, one where the cover is screwed on. Perfect!! Part#49-124 and Part#49-125. I went out and bought them. I had to call around different Oreilleys to make sure the motors were the ones with the screw cover. Some Oreilleys have the old glued on cover and some have the new screw on cover. They are both the same part#'s, so call and check. I finally tracked both motors, which they had in different stores. I took the motors apart and installed my brass gears, which were almost new and no wear. I believe brass holds better than plastic. I screwed the cover back on, and just to be on the safe side, I installed the T-bar kit. I installed the motors.
In the mean time I got a hold of another headlight control module from jasonww.
When it came time for me to turn them on, they would only open an inch or so. The headlight switch seemed to open the lights when the switch was off and vice versa. I tried turning the headlight switch on and off about ten times (which is how the lights synch up), but they wouldnt synch. When I manually opened them and closed them, they would work fine. I was afraid that I had burned my new motor when I had tried it with my old Headlight control module, but luckily, I didnt.
The fix was in Post#459. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...o-here-23.html
I had installed the linkage arm backwards. Thanks, JasonWW
Another problem I had was that my lights were shaking a lot and the light beam pattern was all over the place. This was due to a little bushing where the linkage arm connects to the actual light wearing out over time and eventually breaking.I tried to find the bushing, but no one had it. So I spent a lot of time in different auto parts stores and finally found what I was looking for in Advance Auto Parts. Grommet Assortment Pack Part#85604. I installed this grommet where the linkage arms goes into the light and it fit perfect, a little patience is required to install (I guees it would help if you take the light bucket off, I didnt). I put the linkage arm in and it held great, no more wobbly or shaking lights.
The linkage arm also had come off as the push nut that holds it in place got lost in the three year battle with the lights. I went out to Autozone and bought a Push Nut Assortment Part#961-345 and I pushed the nut to hold the linkage arm. Linkage arm coming off problem, solved. Keep in mind that if your original push nuts are still installed and the lights wobble or shake. All you MAY need to do is push the nut and tighten it, this will solve or help alleviate the shaking or wobbly lights. If not, get the grommets.
My final problem was that my white stoppers had worn out and I had a hard time finding the original ones from parts stores or gm.
The fix was in Post#1 https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
I wrapped tape around where the linkage arm makes contact with the stopper and it fixed my problem of not having stoppers and the headlights cycling up and down endlesslly. The tape started to wear though after a week. So I used a 3/8 hose and installed it in the linkage arm. It fits and works like a charm. Whichever of the above way you prefer will take care of your worn or missing stopper.
Please refer to the pictures to see what the push nuts, grommets and hose look like and where they go.
So after all of these problems and troubles, I am so happy that my lights work.
I hope this helps make some of your troubles with the firebirds headlights a little easier to deal with.
I can buy the fixed headlight kit for $1000.00, while it looks great, I prefer my pop up headlights.
After all, its one of the many things I love about firebirds.
Wish they would still make them
Many thanks go to Danny2Tek and JasonWW and countless other who have contributed to this thread.
Please read the sticky in the top of these thread (Post#1) as this will help you install/uninstall lights,gears and cover adjustments and give you a general idea of what your dealing with. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
My story started like the others, My lights would make horrible noises when turned on and when I pressed the lock/unlock button on my keyfob. I tried the free fix, worked for 2 months then same thing again.
I ordered new plastic gears and redid the motors with them, but the covers on the motor kept coming off. So to solve this dilemma, I bought on the brass gear kit that came with the T-bar for extra protection against the cover coming off. I put the brass gear and glued the cover back on. Installed the T-bar on the motor cover. I also punched in the the tabs on the motor to make sure everything was okay.
The fix was in Post#51
Very important step. Please look at those pics and it will explain. Punching those tabs is a must, and please check them to make sure they are on tight every time you take a motor off or reinstall a gear. Or they will fail. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...go-here-3.html
This worked for 1 month and the glue came off even with the T-bar.
I reglued them again, this time with more epoxy (bad move). I installed them and turned the switch on, only for one motor to work and the other wouldnt even move,both lights worked fine, so I knew it wasnt a harness or wiring problem,I had checked for corrosion and I was fine as I had put some connector grease on them. The harness is to blame a lot of the times when lights dim out or even when motors stop working all together, please check for corrosion where the headlight harness connects to the body harness, if its dirty, clean it up and waterproof it with some grease or do as some other have suggested, bypass the switch and make your own connections using spade connectors. Check to make sure current is getting to the motors. It turned out, I had put on so much expoxy that the motor couldnt spin and it burned out and in the process my burned headlight control module (smelled awful).
So I did more research and found out here in the forums that Oreilleys has a new kind of motor, one where the cover is screwed on. Perfect!! Part#49-124 and Part#49-125. I went out and bought them. I had to call around different Oreilleys to make sure the motors were the ones with the screw cover. Some Oreilleys have the old glued on cover and some have the new screw on cover. They are both the same part#'s, so call and check. I finally tracked both motors, which they had in different stores. I took the motors apart and installed my brass gears, which were almost new and no wear. I believe brass holds better than plastic. I screwed the cover back on, and just to be on the safe side, I installed the T-bar kit. I installed the motors.
In the mean time I got a hold of another headlight control module from jasonww.
When it came time for me to turn them on, they would only open an inch or so. The headlight switch seemed to open the lights when the switch was off and vice versa. I tried turning the headlight switch on and off about ten times (which is how the lights synch up), but they wouldnt synch. When I manually opened them and closed them, they would work fine. I was afraid that I had burned my new motor when I had tried it with my old Headlight control module, but luckily, I didnt.
The fix was in Post#459. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...o-here-23.html
Originally Posted by DrewSG
OK, so I just replaced my driver side headlight motor with a refurb unit from autozone, but when I hit the switch it only goes up an inch. If I raise it manually, it will go all the way up. When I hit the switch to close, it will stay up while the passenger side goes down, and when i hit the switch to turn on it will go down, while the passenger goes up.
I've thought it would sync, but I've tried about 10 times and it hasn't worked.
OK, so I just replaced my driver side headlight motor with a refurb unit from autozone, but when I hit the switch it only goes up an inch. If I raise it manually, it will go all the way up. When I hit the switch to close, it will stay up while the passenger side goes down, and when i hit the switch to turn on it will go down, while the passenger goes up.
I've thought it would sync, but I've tried about 10 times and it hasn't worked.
Did you position the motor arm so the end sticks out forward? That will give it a 270* motion. If the arm is backward it will limit it to about 90*. Make sure it is hitting it's bumpstops on the proper side.
Another problem I had was that my lights were shaking a lot and the light beam pattern was all over the place. This was due to a little bushing where the linkage arm connects to the actual light wearing out over time and eventually breaking.I tried to find the bushing, but no one had it. So I spent a lot of time in different auto parts stores and finally found what I was looking for in Advance Auto Parts. Grommet Assortment Pack Part#85604. I installed this grommet where the linkage arms goes into the light and it fit perfect, a little patience is required to install (I guees it would help if you take the light bucket off, I didnt). I put the linkage arm in and it held great, no more wobbly or shaking lights.
The linkage arm also had come off as the push nut that holds it in place got lost in the three year battle with the lights. I went out to Autozone and bought a Push Nut Assortment Part#961-345 and I pushed the nut to hold the linkage arm. Linkage arm coming off problem, solved. Keep in mind that if your original push nuts are still installed and the lights wobble or shake. All you MAY need to do is push the nut and tighten it, this will solve or help alleviate the shaking or wobbly lights. If not, get the grommets.
My final problem was that my white stoppers had worn out and I had a hard time finding the original ones from parts stores or gm.
The fix was in Post#1 https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html
I wrapped tape around where the linkage arm makes contact with the stopper and it fixed my problem of not having stoppers and the headlights cycling up and down endlesslly. The tape started to wear though after a week. So I used a 3/8 hose and installed it in the linkage arm. It fits and works like a charm. Whichever of the above way you prefer will take care of your worn or missing stopper.
Please refer to the pictures to see what the push nuts, grommets and hose look like and where they go.
So after all of these problems and troubles, I am so happy that my lights work.
I hope this helps make some of your troubles with the firebirds headlights a little easier to deal with.
I can buy the fixed headlight kit for $1000.00, while it looks great, I prefer my pop up headlights.
After all, its one of the many things I love about firebirds.
Wish they would still make them
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
Last edited by trans_am_31; 03-30-2011 at 12:18 AM.
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prowlingleather (05-28-2020)
#1037
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Everytime no matter what, wen I go to turn tha key in the inanition my headlights automatically go up. It's annoying! An when I turn tha switch to close them it doesn't work at all. The only way they'll go down is if I turn the car off. Does anyone know why this happens?
#1038
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/2743521-post6.html