Bad Alternator?
#1
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Bad Alternator?
Hey everyone have a quick question. I've had my trans am since new (16 years ago) and had the alternator replaced a couple of times....most recently I've noticed when I'm really "into" the throttle that the battery gauge dips down into the yellow, and the lights start to dim. Is this a sign that the alternator is on it's way out? How easy are they to change out? And if it is bad any particular replacement you would suggest? Thanks for any help!
#3
TECH Apprentice
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If you do end up replacing it go ahead and do the KG3 alternator upgrade.
Here is a link to the thread on it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...failure-s.html
Here is a link to the thread on it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...failure-s.html
#4
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
How about this for a coincidence? I clicked on "New Posts" to check it out and came across another person who is having a similar issue.
Link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...cal-issue.html
Potential fix
Link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...cal-issue.html
Potential fix
I had a similar issue with my '98 about 10 years ago. Happened exactly the same way, and could NOT be duplicated with engine revving in park/neutral (only under load, either power braking or acceleration.) After a ton of diagnostics, I noticed that there is a woven copper ground strap that runs right near the alternator on its way to the frame, and this ground strap was contacting the top of the alternator case. Under load, it would scrape across the alternator body near the open vents, and I guess this would somehow interrupt charging. All I did was wrap this ground strap in plastic wire loom and zip tie it up a bit higher to stay off the alternator case and the problem was instantly solved, hasn't come back in the last decade. The car was about 7-8 years old when this suddenly started and I hadn't done any work in that vicinity, I have no idea why it took so long to be a problem. It's a free and easy thing to check, hopefully it turns out to be that simple.
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#9
Save the manuals!
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With a good battery, the voltage should stay up even when a belt is slipping, so I would think this indicates a bad alternator.
At 16 years, the original alternator has lead a very long and fruitful life. This proves that there is nothing wrong with the stock size alternator. What we have is a major problem with junk reman and replacement alternators on the market. To avoid grief, all you need is a quality unit - no matter the size. Powermaster is renown for this and I have not seen one fail on one of our site members yet.
There is no such thing as a "free lunch" and larger alternators are no exception. A larger alternator (that has capacity that we'll never use!!!) just creates inefficiency and adds weight to the car. The "truck" alternators are not necessarily a more durable design - they are just bigger. (and more inefficient for us)
Powermaster makes a 120A stock design alternator, which has a little higher capacity than our stock units. They also have higher capacity units in the same case if one has the need for special electronics, engine mods, etc.
At 16 years, the original alternator has lead a very long and fruitful life. This proves that there is nothing wrong with the stock size alternator. What we have is a major problem with junk reman and replacement alternators on the market. To avoid grief, all you need is a quality unit - no matter the size. Powermaster is renown for this and I have not seen one fail on one of our site members yet.
There is no such thing as a "free lunch" and larger alternators are no exception. A larger alternator (that has capacity that we'll never use!!!) just creates inefficiency and adds weight to the car. The "truck" alternators are not necessarily a more durable design - they are just bigger. (and more inefficient for us)
Powermaster makes a 120A stock design alternator, which has a little higher capacity than our stock units. They also have higher capacity units in the same case if one has the need for special electronics, engine mods, etc.